Hello,
We where discussing my polaris engine problem in another topic and Mr.Viper asked me to put own topic under this forum. This is not Yamaha engine but maybe there could be some usefull info for others as well. Thank you Mr. Viper for advance.
Guys, we have Polaris Ultra bottom with Price Jugs and heads. 52mm CS carbs. Jaws pipes. Mr. M... has build and port this motor and it's brand new. It supposed to be full race engine for 660f drags. What a waist of money.
I learnt hard way, We ordered race ready 1000cc Price engine from M... ~260hp he promised and we now dynoed 158hp from it... Don't know what to do, have tryed everything. No return/pay-pack from he's side.
We have tryed differend carbs, pipes, ignition. Motor acts very strange. From bottom it's very strong but it will not rev up like it should and it like dies after 8000rpm. If i run full throttle run only one cylinder EGT go uo like suppose (1100F) and two stays @ ~800F. We have tryed all different jettings with no results. Also we have tryed different ign timing as well.
Port timing is 203/134/131 (he says but it was something else. can't remember at the moment)
We where discussing my polaris engine problem in another topic and Mr.Viper asked me to put own topic under this forum. This is not Yamaha engine but maybe there could be some usefull info for others as well. Thank you Mr. Viper for advance.
Guys, we have Polaris Ultra bottom with Price Jugs and heads. 52mm CS carbs. Jaws pipes. Mr. M... has build and port this motor and it's brand new. It supposed to be full race engine for 660f drags. What a waist of money.
I learnt hard way, We ordered race ready 1000cc Price engine from M... ~260hp he promised and we now dynoed 158hp from it... Don't know what to do, have tryed everything. No return/pay-pack from he's side.
We have tryed differend carbs, pipes, ignition. Motor acts very strange. From bottom it's very strong but it will not rev up like it should and it like dies after 8000rpm. If i run full throttle run only one cylinder EGT go uo like suppose (1100F) and two stays @ ~800F. We have tryed all different jettings with no results. Also we have tryed different ign timing as well.
Port timing is 203/134/131 (he says but it was something else. can't remember at the moment)
may be obvious but have you checked the crank for twist up, that could make one run good, the other two like crap, may have started with a bad crank. could make your port timing measurements off as well if you started did tdc off one, then measured timeing on on one of the others.
just a thought.
another dumb thought is , do you know for sure if there is a seal between each cylinder at the crank? if one was missing(i know, dumb)those two cylinders would have poor pumping into the top end.
just a thought.
another dumb thought is , do you know for sure if there is a seal between each cylinder at the crank? if one was missing(i know, dumb)those two cylinders would have poor pumping into the top end.
We will check these through
Engine in brand new with brand new crank in it. We have tested it around 15 short pulls. One weird thing is that if i hit full throttle and then back up abit (like 3/4 throttle) all temps goes up like normal way and sled pulls much better.
Engine in brand new with brand new crank in it. We have tested it around 15 short pulls. One weird thing is that if i hit full throttle and then back up abit (like 3/4 throttle) all temps goes up like normal way and sled pulls much better.
Bushman
New member
Reimond said:
I would check the stator, Sometimes they will benchtest fine but under load they act like what you have going on.
Bummer
Wow, that's really too bad. We have a race team here locally who has some pretty impressive Polaris motors. Iantomassi up in Canada does all of their work. It took them a year with one of their motors to figure out that the CDI box was no good. It was dynoed in Canada by the builder and put up some impressive numbers. When they got back to the states they put it in the sled with the CDI box they had down here (with the same part number). Turns out there was just somthing wrong with the CDI. They ordered a brand new one from Polaris and the thing came alive. I know you said you looked into different ignitions and stuff but I just thought I'd tell you about this. Good luck, I hope it works out for you.
Madmatt
Wow, that's really too bad. We have a race team here locally who has some pretty impressive Polaris motors. Iantomassi up in Canada does all of their work. It took them a year with one of their motors to figure out that the CDI box was no good. It was dynoed in Canada by the builder and put up some impressive numbers. When they got back to the states they put it in the sled with the CDI box they had down here (with the same part number). Turns out there was just somthing wrong with the CDI. They ordered a brand new one from Polaris and the thing came alive. I know you said you looked into different ignitions and stuff but I just thought I'd tell you about this. Good luck, I hope it works out for you.
Madmatt
toydoc
Member
Did you buy a top end or drop in motor?
I'd look to see if it has, Wrong crank, wrong stroke, pipes, pistons, cdi, stator....
A weak (trail port) Price 1000 is still 220+, so it's still 60hp down from a weak Price.
They will run, some do have issues but sub 200hp isn't one of them.
I'd look to see if it has, Wrong crank, wrong stroke, pipes, pistons, cdi, stator....
A weak (trail port) Price 1000 is still 220+, so it's still 60hp down from a weak Price.
They will run, some do have issues but sub 200hp isn't one of them.
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ok, porting specs sound good to me if thats what they are, you should probally pull a head and degree it out and see if it really is that.
couple questions/ things to check:
1.)I need the bore,stroke, conn rod length center to center.
2.) with a cloth measuring tape I need the pipe length from the piston skirt(exh side) to the end of the rear diffuser cone(right before the stinger pipe)
3.) how much ign. timing does it have?
4.) on to the dyno runs, can you post a copy of a sheet here? does it have the fuel/lb/hr used?
5.) how much compression does it have? whats the squish clearance? what is the oulet size of the stingers on the pipes, this before the silencers if equipped.
6.) were the pipes hot when it was dyno'd or was it a cold run? try and explain the way you guys ran it on the dyno.
with some of this information I can run it thru my TSR computer software and see how close you are in areas of the engine.
couple questions/ things to check:
1.)I need the bore,stroke, conn rod length center to center.
2.) with a cloth measuring tape I need the pipe length from the piston skirt(exh side) to the end of the rear diffuser cone(right before the stinger pipe)
3.) how much ign. timing does it have?
4.) on to the dyno runs, can you post a copy of a sheet here? does it have the fuel/lb/hr used?
5.) how much compression does it have? whats the squish clearance? what is the oulet size of the stingers on the pipes, this before the silencers if equipped.
6.) were the pipes hot when it was dyno'd or was it a cold run? try and explain the way you guys ran it on the dyno.
with some of this information I can run it thru my TSR computer software and see how close you are in areas of the engine.
This engine is now in another shop but i will seek all needed info for you.
This engine supposed to complete and we got this with all goodies except ign. We have tryed two different ign components in. Timing has been tested between 18-10deg. Now there is old 650 polaris ign. parts and ign timing curve is flat so there is no rpm limiter.
I don't have exact number now but it has stock ultra's stroke and it uses stock polaris 700 pistons. Pipes are from Jaws (prostock) and shift rpm shuold be @9200-9500rpm.
At dyno it actually run better with cold pipes and was bad with hot pipes (told guy who ran it) I need to call and ask sheets.
This engine supposed to complete and we got this with all goodies except ign. We have tryed two different ign components in. Timing has been tested between 18-10deg. Now there is old 650 polaris ign. parts and ign timing curve is flat so there is no rpm limiter.
I don't have exact number now but it has stock ultra's stroke and it uses stock polaris 700 pistons. Pipes are from Jaws (prostock) and shift rpm shuold be @9200-9500rpm.
At dyno it actually run better with cold pipes and was bad with hot pipes (told guy who ran it) I need to call and ask sheets.
toydoc
Member
I'd also check the crank timing & run-out just to be sure.
Ok will do. Crank is anyways trued and welded by builder
toydoc
Member
Long way from here to Finland... I'd guess lots of hands have been on that box.
I have had bad things happen shipping a motor 2 states away.
I have had bad things happen shipping a motor 2 states away.
the topic is still here Reimond, post what ya found out and i can plug it in my TSR software for ya, thanx