8" Rear wheel kit on SRX..what you have to say about it

bluemonster1

bluemonster1

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was thinking of putting 8" rear wheels on my SRX.Should be ok I think.Less rolling resistance would be achieved here.Actually put 7.5 wheels on my SXR and have no problems.On a 121" track,should still be enough on the adjusters to accept 8" rear wheels.Who has done it and was it worth the effort.I know it can get expensive.Pics would be nice if you have also.Thanks
 

i do believe you need an offset axle to run the 8's. 99.9% sure. if your going to do that, might be better to just replace all the wheels with the slightly larger polaris wheels which will let the track roll better. theres a lot of posts on the skids between betheviper and mrviper700 on tips and tricks to the skids (aligning and squaring, slightly larger wheels, adding zerks, etc.)
 
I know all about the off-set axles and all and have the Polaris idlers on my SXR to.I would put the 5.35" idlers on for sure.Could just go with 7.5" SRX rear wheels like I did on the SXR.Would be cheaper.Them billet rear wheels and axle add up to some $500 plus.Just wanted to know if it was really worth it.
 
I put one on my 121 srx this winter from M. Performance. it went on pretty good. the only thing is that you have to notch out the back of the rails for the bracket and remove the axel that goes across to the transfer rods and replace with a bolt on the rail. the one i got was a 3 wheel kit
 
If you stick with a yamaha skid I think the best bang for the buck would be to stick with the oversize idlers like on your SXR... I don't know how much of a gain you would see going from 7.5 to 8" rears ... but those billet wheels do look sweet. For me it's a tough call, but I definetly think that the 5.35" idlers and 7.5" rear wheels would be the best for the dollar?

If I were going to do it though, I would love to have the oversize 8" billets on there, and polish the rails too... but money talks... i'm speechless.
 
8" can be done for sure. I've done it on my race sled. I went with Mountain machines wheels and freedom axel. I had to run the adjusters from the front side because I am running a windowless track, and it makes it a royal pain in the the *** to adjust because I have to remove the transfer rods. I also had to have the perfect length of bolt because there is very little room to play with between the adjusters and the transfer rods. I had to remove the shaft that runs between the transfer rods as well, but there's no need for it in there anyways. You could leave that shaft in there if you order a kit that runs the 7" wheels in the middle, and 8" on the outside. That is the kit that is built for a 121" chassis. I went with 8" all the way though.
 
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