srx summer project questions

Fro

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Feb 5, 2007
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226
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Howell, Mi
Picked up a '99 srx last fall. I rode it as is. Now that the seasons over, I want to tear into it abit. I've read many threads here & have some ideas. Just want to get some input on a few things.

Seems like a common mod is to swap the srx skid for a viper. What are you gaining? What is the travel on a viper skid. Is it a bolt in job or will any fab be involved?

Also on clutching. I've read some threads and it seems there is alot to gain over the stock cluthing. Hearing all the different combos, it seems endless. I was on the MCB site & they have a Q & A deal where they match set-ups to your sled/needs/wants. Is that a reasonable way to go??? Reputable???
Basically looking for a very strong launch & strong mid range. Would sacrifice top end to be better down low/mid.

For tracks, seems 1 1/4" Predator has high praise. Is there an advantage to a fully clipped track? What about track pitch? Finally, what is the advantage to not studding a track?

Oh yeah, the seat is worn alot around the top/rear. What other seats will fit. Are they all that wide??? This seat seams huge compared to my old wildcat.

Alot of questions I know. Just want to be ready for next season & not try to do all of this last minute.

Thanks in advance for any info.
 

Fro said:
Picked up a '99 srx last fall. I rode it as is. Now that the seasons over, I want to tear into it abit. I've read many threads here & have some ideas. Just want to get some input on a few things.

Seems like a common mod is to swap the srx skid for a viper. What are you gaining? What is the travel on a viper skid. Is it a bolt in job or will any fab be involved?

Also on clutching. I've read some threads and it seems there is alot to gain over the stock cluthing. Hearing all the different combos, it seems endless. I was on the MCB site & they have a Q & A deal where they match set-ups to your sled/needs/wants. Is that a reasonable way to go??? Reputable???
Basically looking for a very strong launch & strong mid range. Would sacrifice top end to be better down low/mid.

For tracks, seems 1 1/4" Predator has high praise. Is there an advantage to a fully clipped track? What about track pitch? Finally, what is the advantage to not studding a track?

Oh yeah, the seat is worn alot around the top/rear. What other seats will fit. Are they all that wide??? This seat seams huge compared to my old wildcat.

Alot of questions I know. Just want to be ready for next season & not try to do all of this last minute.

Thanks in advance for any info.

First thing, the viper or SXR skid will bolt right into your srx and give you 11.5" inches of rear travel instead of the stock 8". The ride should be quite a bit better with the long travel once you get it setup for your weight and riding style, and it is easier than installing other manufacturer's suspensions because it will bolt right in while the others you will have to change hole and mount locations.

As for clutching, tell us where your rpm's are at right now and we can get you dialed in for WAYYYY cheaper than any of those companies will and it will be just as good or most likely better.

1.25" predator six pitch track is amazing for grip. A 1" will get you slightly better top end but wont grip as good in the loose snow. It is also more difficult to stud the 1.25" because you should go to smaller 8 tooth track drivers in order to get enough clearance from the front heat exchanger. If you want to stud, go with the 1" as it is just way easier to do. The advantage to studs is MUCH more grip on ice and icy conditions, very important for stopping distance. Most people stud for the increased performance on ice for racing people and for the safety of better stopping. If you don't need the big performance gains of studs you can also get pre-studded tracks from camoplast that are lighter and cheaper than studded tracks. They will give you better braking than non-studded tracks but aren't near as aggressive as a studded track, more of a medium. For track pitch, all newer yamaha's are 2.52" pitch, which is basically the industry standard. A fully clipped track is traditional, it allows the use of extrovert (mountain style) drivers which run off the track windows as well as the internal lugs. Some people also think that your slides last longer with fully clipped. Clipped every third is lighter and the manufacturer will tell you that it should get better slide wear because it should hold more snow, but as i said many people would debate that. I have ran both and you really can't tell the difference.

Any proaction seat will fit that sled expect the viper (will fit in but doesn't have the nylon strap around the gas tank poles) but get one from an srx/sx/sxr as they all have the same nice wide foam with sidepads. If you get one from a 2000 or newer srx or sxr they have bolder "Yamaha" logo on the rear which looks nice in my opinion.

Hope that helps you some!
-Holic22
 
yeah, what he said! that about sums it up. nice going holic, stole everyone elses post before we could even get them posted lol!
 
Yup leave to holic to answer ALL his questions! LOL!
Hey holic, how much top speed is lost with the viper skid over a stocker srx skid if any.
C'n you are answering all the q's today.
Cheers,
mul.
 
I would definitely recommend studs, unless your sled only ever sees light powder I'd consider them a necessity. Most people I know that go to a studded track that ride any kind of hardpack or ice, will never go back, sheerly on account of safety, but in addition to that, the extra corner speed you can carry without getting into deep trouble. In my view, for the average trail rider, studs are about braking and cornering, not acceleration.
 
Just want to throw in my $0.02 on the studding issue.

I have chosen NOT to stud for the following reasons:

1. I don't ride so out of control that I need that "extra" braking from studs
2. Studs rip the snot out of your trailer ... and your garage ... and anything
3. Others may be more interested in "hooking up" coming out of the turns.
I'm the opposite. I like the rear end breaking loose a little coming out.
It gives me a little thrill. I'm not out there to be the leader of the pack.
I just want to have fun
4. Cost - Jesus, it's hundreds of dollars.
5. When a stud lets go (and they will) at a high rate of speed,
it could possibly damage your machine (heat exchangers), or worse yet,
hit your buddy behind you.
6. Adding studs increases clearance problems with the front heat Xchange.
7. The track is WAY lighter and will spool up and slow down faster.

That's just MHO. :2strokes:
 
Thanks Yamaholic22. I've asked alot of people (including e-bay sellers) how much travel is in a viper skid & nobody knew. They just said alot more??? Thanks for summing it all up. If you don't mind, I have a few follow ups.
Skid
I've seen that '02 viper skids needed an update? How can I tell by looking? Also, are the stock shocks rebuildable on them?
Track
What does 6 pitch mean on the track? I've seen some advertised Predator/Ripsaws 1'' & 1 1/4" for $300+ shipping is that about right? If I wanted to get greedy & go with the 1 1/4" & studs, can you get a new drive axle with the 8's on or would I have to install them on old axle? Sounds like a press fit deal?
Clutch
I only put 160 miles on the sled this season. Marginal conditions most of the season & I have to trailer 2-300 miles. From what I remember, it engages at just under 4K. At WOT it shifts around 9K+ & tops out around 8600. I got one really good power run in on a lake. I kept it pegged until speedo maxed out at 120, enough for me. I know that's not true mph. Just wanted to see if it would hit it...it did.

Thanks for your input. I feel cheated this season. New sled & not enough miles. Instead of storing it in the barn, I kept it in the garage where I can see it every day. I feel I'm getting a good game plan down now thanks to help from this site. Can't wait to start getting into it.

Thanks, Fro.
 
Im in the same boat as fro- picked up a nice 99 with 1600 miles- except i only put on about 25 miles last winter.

I have a .75 track with 96 studs. Would I see a huge difference if I went to a 1" with about the same studs?
 
I dont run studs, used to and wont again. I found them to be way more trouble than they were worth. I have more traction with my ripsaw then when I had studs. all in the conditions. I ride hardpack and almost never see icy corners. really a personal choice based on riding style and preferance. my $.02
 
Pjw350 said:
I have a .75 track with 96 studs. Would I see a huge difference if I went to a 1" with about the same studs?


In my opinion, 96 studs aren't enough. Go 144 down the center. I'm just running a 600, but from all the sled's I've run, 96 was just to few. If you're gonna spend the money do 144. I feel that I have much more control with 144.
 
03viperguy said:
I dont run studs, used to and wont again. I found them to be way more trouble than they were worth. I have more traction with my ripsaw then when I had studs. all in the conditions. I ride hardpack and almost never see icy corners. really a personal choice based on riding style and preferance. my $.02

Is there a major difference in the ripsaw vs. predator?
 
I've owned 3 sleds now, none were studded except for the SRX.... after experiencing studs I will never own a machine without them, I have had zero problems with them and theres 10 000 km on the original track and of those 10 000 km there was a lot of agressive trail and racing on lakes with my buddies. Just now there are i think 2 studs missing and its time to replace the track but i figure that if you can get 10 000 km out of a studded track and have all the benefits of studs still without sacrificing reliability then there would be no reason not to. I wouldn't go any less then 144 studs up the middle though, just my 2 cents thats all.
 
The last 3 sleds i`ve owned i studded them from the get go with 192 gold diggers. After blowing all 3 of them off i went to 1 1/4 paddle tracks(without studs) and loved them! I will be doing the same with my 2000srx this summer , it has 192 studs now with the original track and it will have a 1 1/4 predator with no studs. Again that is just my own opinion.
 
will never ever go back to no studs.....

i love the hookup, at 60mph i can do a fly by and go by the person (usually my uncle on a doo) with the skis 4" off the ground pulling like a freight train

192 1" studs here.... love being able to get grip anywhere anytime....

next track if i keep hte srx and dont get a RTX will be a 1" ripsaw, with 192 studs again
 
mulderdad said:
Yup leave to holic to answer ALL his questions! LOL!
Hey holic, how much top speed is lost with the viper skid over a stocker srx skid if any.
C'n you are answering all the q's today.
Cheers,
mul.

You will lose a little top speed but not too much. It also heavily depends on how you set it up. If you set it up for maximum plushness such as letting the front limiters out most of the way and running the suspension with a lot of preload for increased ride height you will lose more speed because there is more friction and more resistance from the taller stance.
 


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