Re assembly advice

orlo

orlo

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Joined
Mar 27, 2007
Messages
118
Age
59
Location
Grand Rapids Michigan
My "00" SRX crank, should be finished this week. I've got the cases all cleaned & ready to go. Any advise on how much Yama Bond to put on the case edges? Just on the ends? Around the seals? Or do the whole edge all the way around. Also, are the torque specs in the manual correct? Don't want to under/ over torque... This is a stock rebuild also.
 

I would just put a thin consistant layer all around the mating surfaces. You don't want it too thick, just enough to fill up any imperfections. All the torque specs should be correct, I actually never use torque specs, just tighten until I no longer can, but if you have the specs to go by in the manual then I would use them.
 
use the torque specs when tightening i've tightened them too tight before and the crank doesn't spin as freely. the book specs are fine. as for yamabond i find it goes on pretty thin and doesn't take much at all to fill the gaps. just make sure you get it on all the mating surfaces. you don't need it on the seals just make sure you get right to theedge of the seal though. i try to make sure i get around all the bolt holes really well. other than that pretty straight forward. one suggestion i have is to dry fit your crank and cases before you put the yamabond on, messy stuff if you have to pull it apart and fidle with something cause it's not fiting together properly.
 
Like snowrules said...dry fit the cases, set the circlips/thrust rings on crank with no seals and give it a spin...install all the bolts & torque to specs...give it a spin...all should spin freely...once you're happy with it. Split it again, inspect it, clean it up if you have to, and then you're ready for reassemble...I placed my yamibond on the lower case only,(w/crank in place) tight to all the bearing races & bolts holes, dowels...for the seal I just used red locktite (Brushed on the outer side, I used this cause I did not want the seal to leak air or spin on initial start up) Remember to put grease on the seal before you slide it on the crank & set in. I lube the water pump/oilpump cavity and oiled the crank really well before my final assembly...Try & put all you bolts in & snug them up (TIP: paint you're bolts with graphite spray, helps towards corrosion), I only rotated my block quarter turn to access for torquing (remember to rotate the crank at each bolt torqued). Also use yamibond on the water pump cover...All you need on the base & head gaskets is gasket spray, a light coat on each side is all you need...same for the reed blocks...on the exhaust side I used the hi heat gasket maker stuff & on the donuts...hope this helps out...cheers
 
Id WATCH the "graphite spray" on the bolts... using a lubricant OTHER than recomended by the MFG will CHANGE your torque specs... Yamaha probably uses "straight 30wt motor oil" for all of their torque specs.. using graphite will actually torque the bolt tighter than needed because of the silppryness of the graphite!!! there is a company called ARP and they make bolts for automotive engines!! you can read their article about bolt torqueing and lubrication if you would like..
 
always torque down everything in the engine. doing so not only holds the engine together at the right pressures but also of you overtighten the bolts they also stretch, so the more you do it the more they stretch. then they are no longer any good because the will no longer hold the right tension.
 
ONLY loc-tite bolts the manual specifies, which isn't very many. You want the engine to be able to come apart again if necessary.
 
Yea i would put the oil in there right away. It will fill up if you dont, but just to be safe why not do it right off the bat so you know it has good lube on the bearings and seals right away?
 
add the oil, and always pre-mix your first tank after a rebuild, gives you abit of leeway if there's a bubble in the oil line or some other oiling problem, that way you've got a tank of fuel to realize that your oil supply isn't dropping and that you've got to do something about it. If it oils abit heavy and smokes for it's first couple hours on a new rebuild, it's not the end of the world, it's really cheap insurance to not have to go in and do it again.
 
Did I read somewhere, that adding oil to the tank, actually leans out the mixture? I know all the dealers do it to the first tank anyway.
 
Nah you wont lean out done it many times,just don't go over board on the oil,
and just use 2 stroke oil in the water pump cavity,thats all that lubes it anyway when running..plus i think that's what the manual say's to use.
 
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