My sled has 7020 km on it. I think it's about time to replace the piston rings.
However, I'm not sure which parts I need in addition to the piston rings themselves, for example which gaskets need to be replaced when the head is lifted off the cylinder?
Also, I've heard that you should use a mineral oil to break them in? Does it have to be all mineral or is semi synthetic also good? For how long should I ride with this oil before swithcing back to the oil I use normally? (castrol).
However, I'm not sure which parts I need in addition to the piston rings themselves, for example which gaskets need to be replaced when the head is lifted off the cylinder?
Also, I've heard that you should use a mineral oil to break them in? Does it have to be all mineral or is semi synthetic also good? For how long should I ride with this oil before swithcing back to the oil I use normally? (castrol).
daman
New member
You will need Base gasket, head O-rings, water rail(all 3)gaskets,maybe the
one power valve gaskets when you remove them,carb intakes can stay on,
as can the header pipes,,so i think thats about it.
and make sure you use OEM yamaha parts, you can break the rings in with
any kind of oil dino or syn.,but i would probably use regular dino then switch
to a good syn, oh and check your pistons out for wear too.
one power valve gaskets when you remove them,carb intakes can stay on,
as can the header pipes,,so i think thats about it.
and make sure you use OEM yamaha parts, you can break the rings in with
any kind of oil dino or syn.,but i would probably use regular dino then switch
to a good syn, oh and check your pistons out for wear too.
bufalobob
Member
don't waste your $$$. that's only 4300 mi..
do a cylinder leak test first. if 20% or more than you may want to consider a top end rebuild.... but it's not as simple as it sounds. don't just put in a set of rings - that may not be the problem if you have excessive leakage.
you will need a bore gauge ( very costly item ) & calipers to check the piston skirt to cylinder wall clearance & also to check & see if you have a cylinder out of round &/or a worn piston skirt.
also, once you put the motor back together don't expect a performance increase. even excessive cylinder leakage does not affect h.p. output very much ( dyno tech did a test on their web site on leakage ).
use 100% synthetic all the time.
bob
do a cylinder leak test first. if 20% or more than you may want to consider a top end rebuild.... but it's not as simple as it sounds. don't just put in a set of rings - that may not be the problem if you have excessive leakage.
you will need a bore gauge ( very costly item ) & calipers to check the piston skirt to cylinder wall clearance & also to check & see if you have a cylinder out of round &/or a worn piston skirt.
also, once you put the motor back together don't expect a performance increase. even excessive cylinder leakage does not affect h.p. output very much ( dyno tech did a test on their web site on leakage ).
use 100% synthetic all the time.
bob
sgauthier
Member
like mentioned above. i would do a compression test first. i did my rings at 13000km, only because of the mileage. i now have over 16500km. i replaced everything with OEM parts, rings, pistons and wrist pins with the usual gaskets. i figured since it ran so good for that long why ruin a good thing by throwing cheaper parts in it. not a hard job to do
Last edited:
Don´t take heads off, just lift jugs out. Then you need only replace bottom and water rail gasgets.
If you are carefull you don't need to replace the base gasket. I have reused them with good luck.
yamaholic22
Active member
Pull all three heads at once and you dont need to replace water rail gaskets.
SRXtrafast
New member
bufalobob said:
I really don't think it's a waste of money at all, in fact a good investment. I've seen on here before, change the rings at 3000 miles [5000kms] because it is a 2 stroke no matter what brand of sled or oil .
