laxs1308
New member
In the tech pages this is what is recomended for a viper.
**2002 & 03 Viper Trail
53/43 Helix, Green Secondary Spring & Everything else stock**
I have a 02 viper. I run mostly trail but i race on ice once and a while and i want more power.(not in a certain place but all over)
is this what i want?
Where can i find this stuff?
thanks
**2002 & 03 Viper Trail
53/43 Helix, Green Secondary Spring & Everything else stock**
I have a 02 viper. I run mostly trail but i race on ice once and a while and i want more power.(not in a certain place but all over)
is this what i want?
Where can i find this stuff?
thanks
I have tried that set up it works ok.If you want to gain more all around and have excllent back shift whil gaining about 8-10 mph on top end.Go with heeel clickers.MrViper700 has the ultimate set up for the viper.Shoot him a pm.I'm shure he would be happy to help out.
Try reading this Clutching an 03 Viper. This setup is based on MrViper's, but tailored to my machine.
Everything we did is posted. Machine does 114.3 MPH on radar and that's with a full tank of gas. Machine pulls really hard at any given range. FYI - my machine is pretty much stock, added mods are listed in my signature.
When you are racing on the lake (3000+ feet), set the secondary spring softer. I think for my 114 MPH run it was set at 50*. Set it as soft as you can without sticking the belt on take off.
If you want better acceleration (corner to corner) for trail riding, tighten secondary +10*. Venturing off trail, tighter still, another +10*.
You results will differ because of rider weight and many other factors, but this should make an excellent starting point.
Everything we did is posted. Machine does 114.3 MPH on radar and that's with a full tank of gas. Machine pulls really hard at any given range. FYI - my machine is pretty much stock, added mods are listed in my signature.
When you are racing on the lake (3000+ feet), set the secondary spring softer. I think for my 114 MPH run it was set at 50*. Set it as soft as you can without sticking the belt on take off.
If you want better acceleration (corner to corner) for trail riding, tighten secondary +10*. Venturing off trail, tighter still, another +10*.
You results will differ because of rider weight and many other factors, but this should make an excellent starting point.
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S.S.Viper
New member
Really eh?...I know I'm getting a set of HeelClickers this fall...I haven't installed my 52/42 dalton yet but was thinking of getting 48/40 and green spring, but 114MPH?...I've seen 114mph on my dreammeter...which I'm guessing I'm barely getting over true 100mph...Hmmm...this sounds good so far...
SS - It looks like you are sticking with a single pipe for now, so you'll want an even shallower helix then those, esp if you are looking for top speed. I haven't personally tested the difference, but I've been told by reliable resource that this is the key. I even asked if a 36 finish would be OK and the answer was yes, but not as fast. Try and get a 34 if you can.
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Fyi - on that pass the speedo read 126mph, which is consistent with other users feedback on this site. Your speedo reading of 114mph would have probably been close to an actual of 104mph.
S.S.Viper
New member
Thanks Yamerdown...I'll keep an eye out for the helix...so I guess your sled is piped(listed coming soon)...that makes more sense then...and yes on the reading of 104 true MPH...that makes sense aswell...I know I'm not uber fast, Hell I've still got teh battery in it(grin)..but every little bit helps as long as I'm breakin 100mph...
cheers
cheers
LOL, No. Those results and clutching specs are with STOCK PIPE and silencer.
My SLPs are sitting in the basement and have never been on the machine. Just got them a few weeks ago from ExpertXViper. I'm hope to be a little closer to 120mph with the pipes on it (big grin!).
My SLPs are sitting in the basement and have never been on the machine. Just got them a few weeks ago from ExpertXViper. I'm hope to be a little closer to 120mph with the pipes on it (big grin!).
Remember 1 thing, the smaller the finish angle on the helix the less secondary spring tension you need, as the lower finish angle clamps the belt harder then your spring doesnt try and fight the front clutch from upshifting. You also will need more tip weight in the primary, this way your clamping the belt in both the primary and the secondary.
With triple pipes, h/c clutching and a special cut helix, I was able to get 138mph indicated on speedo(not real world radar speed) from my piped viper trail sled, this was with way too many pics in the track also, the less picks you run the better. Rotating weight really begins to raise its head on top speed, only run enuff of them to suit the engine power output, 144-168 in the center belt only is where I like to be.You will also have less tendency to pull picks out of the track, as usually unless you hit something they always pull from the outside belt from the loads applied by turning, rendering the track junk in short order.
With triple pipes, h/c clutching and a special cut helix, I was able to get 138mph indicated on speedo(not real world radar speed) from my piped viper trail sled, this was with way too many pics in the track also, the less picks you run the better. Rotating weight really begins to raise its head on top speed, only run enuff of them to suit the engine power output, 144-168 in the center belt only is where I like to be.You will also have less tendency to pull picks out of the track, as usually unless you hit something they always pull from the outside belt from the loads applied by turning, rendering the track junk in short order.
So Don, when I add my pipes I should switch back to the red spring?
I'm going to try the current setup first anyway, but that's a point worth jotting in my notes. Actually, I got the 15.6mm rollers as recommended, so they will be the ONLY thing I change before I begin testing. I'll start re-tuning from there.
138mph on speedo? Nice, that like 124-125 mph actual, sweet! Hope my helix is close to that "special cut" one, LOL.
And I agree with you on the pics. The new 1" Predator is going to have 144 1.075" all down the middle.
I'm going to try the current setup first anyway, but that's a point worth jotting in my notes. Actually, I got the 15.6mm rollers as recommended, so they will be the ONLY thing I change before I begin testing. I'll start re-tuning from there.
138mph on speedo? Nice, that like 124-125 mph actual, sweet! Hope my helix is close to that "special cut" one, LOL.
And I agree with you on the pics. The new 1" Predator is going to have 144 1.075" all down the middle.
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laxs1308
New member
where do you buy heelclickers and all this stuff for you'r clutch?
Cheapest way is to get a used set, either off this site or ebay. Got mine last year from this site for $100US. Best $100 I've even spent on snowmobile parts. If you want new, try one of the "Preferred Vendors" .
There is a set that will work on your machine for sale right now:Heel Clickers/shocks for sale
Never mind, just noticed that are sold. Anyway, if you find a set make sure they come with the bolts, washers, and the red primary spring. Also keep your eye out for a shallow finish helix like one mentioned in the post.
Happy hunting.
There is a set that will work on your machine for sale right now:Heel Clickers/shocks for sale
Never mind, just noticed that are sold. Anyway, if you find a set make sure they come with the bolts, washers, and the red primary spring. Also keep your eye out for a shallow finish helix like one mentioned in the post.
Happy hunting.
If youguys buy the heel clickers make shure you get the right version.There is 3 or 4 different styles.I for got if there the 2nd or 3rd generation.
Think its gen 2 that were best, but gen 1 work fine if you notch primary for clearance. Gen 3 were the pivot version and difficult to tune.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
yes you are correct