taking off my fly wheel??? ideas please.


I believe i used a steering wheel puller, and threaded some hardened bolts into the flywheel where the thing the recoil catches on bolts in. It took some force but she came off
 
Need a puller of some sort. Sometimes they need a tap with a hammer on the end of the puller bolt if you get the puller snugged down good and it's not moving.
 
You need an automotive style damper pulley puller or equivelent. The key to pulling flywheels, clutches or anything else for that matter is good quality HARD!!!! pullers, bolts and washers that do NOT!!! bend, streatch or mushroom out. I have been a diesel and heavy equipment mechanic and have had to pull and push some very tough stuff and have learned that soft tools just don't work. Puller arms that bend, bolts that streatch and washers that mushroom can take away 50% or more of the force that could be applied with the right stuff. You wouldn't pound a soft nail with a soft hammer into oak because it doesn't work. Pressed, tapered, keyed steel on steel flywheel pulling needs better tools than pounding nails so get them. You don't need top of the line but a good beefy puller that looks to be well made should do the trick. Most pullers (even expensive ones) come with cheap bolts that are grade 5 at best. I use hardened allen head cap screws with matching hardened machine washers that are at least grade 8. I get the bolts adjusted so the puller is straight, grease the threads and tip, tighten it by hand and use my 1/2" Ingersol Ran impact wrench that developes 450ftlbs of torque. (low air preasure and weak air wrenches are a waste of time) I put on a big heavy welding type glove on one hand (to protect my hand) and hold the puller with it while burping the air wrench on the puller bolt and they ALL come off almost instantly. It's the combination of the HARD tools and the fast hard hitting impact that the Ingesol has that gets it done. There are no soft bolts or washers absorbing energy it is all transfered. The test for my method is the difference between smacking 2 cheap hammers together and smacking 2 good ball pean hammers together. The ball peans will bounce back quick and hard because they transfer all the energy between the hammers instantly. With soft hammers alot of it is absorbed and lost during impact. By using these tools and this method you don't bend bolts, pull out threads or damage cranks. Holding the PULLER and NOT the flywheel takes all the rotational impact of the air wrench away from the crank and allows it to float so you won't hurt it. 2 stroke cranks can take alot of rotational force but are NOT designed to take the directional force of smacking it on the end with a hammer. That method can bend cranks, break bearings and cases and actually drive the crank in on it's pins. Leave the hammer under the bench. It is not needed and you can do more damage with it than good. Removing a clutch is the same way, good quality puller, strong air wrench and hold the CLUTCH with a gloved hand. If you get a stubborn one remove the puller and fill the cavity with grease using a grease gun with a hose long enough to reach the bottom. Put the hose to the bottom and start pumping grease while backing out the hose. The key is to completely fill the cavity with grease and no air pockets. Then screw the puller back in and try again. You now have the hydraulic action of the grease being squeezed by the puller and the original force of the puller working together which will get almost all of them off. If not a LITTLE heat at the base of the clutch will expand the clutch and the grease and that bad boy will jump right off. It's messy but it works.
Others may not agree with me but I pull alot of clutches and flywheels and they are not a problem for me.
Just my 2 cents, Phil (opsled)
 
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I used this cheap Harbor Freight puller kit that I bought for $10.00 to remove my Viper flywheel earlier this summer. It even had bolts that were the right length and thread size. Just be sure not the thread the bolts too far into the flywheel or you will damage the stator. I did bend the washers that came with the set. So if I have to use it again I will go out and buy some harden washers. I had to put the clutch back on my crank to give me something to hang onto when removing the flywheel.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37824

G.B.
 
opsled said:
You need an automotive style damper pulley puller or equivelent. The key to pulling flywheels, clutches or anything else for that matter is good quality HARD!!!! pullers, bolts and washers that do NOT!!! bend, streatch or mushroom out. I have been a diesel and heavy equipment mechanic and have had to pull and push some very tough stuff and have learned that soft tools just don't work. Puller arms that bend, bolts that streatch and washers that mushroom can take away 50% or more of the force that could be applied with the right stuff. You wouldn't pound a soft nail with a soft hammer into oak because it doesn't work. Pressed, tapered, keyed steel on steel flywheel pulling needs better tools than pounding nails so get them. You don't need top of the line but a good beefy puller that looks to be well made should do the trick. Most pullers (even expensive ones) come with cheap bolts that are grade 5 at best. I use hardened allen head cap screws with matching hardened machine washers that are at least grade 8. I get the bolts adjusted so the puller is straight, grease the threads and tip, tighten it by hand and use my 1/2" Ingersol Ran impact wrench that developes 450ftlbs of torque. (low air preasure and weak air wrenches are a waste of time) I put on a big heavy welding type glove on one hand (to protect my hand) and hold the puller with it while burping the air wrench on the puller bolt and they ALL come off almost instantly. It's the combination of the HARD tools and the fast hard hitting impact that the Ingesol has that gets it done. There are no soft bolts or washers absorbing energy it is all transfered. The test for my method is the difference between smacking 2 cheap hammers together and smacking 2 good ball pean hammers together. The ball peans will bounce back quick and hard because they transfer all the energy between the hammers instantly. With soft hammers alot of it is absorbed and lost during impact. By using these tools and this method you don't bend bolts, pull out threads or damage cranks. Holding the PULLER and NOT the flywheel takes all the rotational impact of the air wrench away from the crank and allows it to float so you won't hurt it. 2 stroke cranks can take alot of rotational force but are NOT designed to take the directional force of smacking it on the end with a hammer. That method can bend cranks, break bearings and cases and actually drive the crank in on it's pins. Leave the hammer under the bench. It is not needed and you can do more damage with it than good. Removing a clutch is the same way, good quality puller, strong air wrench and hold the CLUTCH with a gloved hand. If you get a stubborn one remove the puller and fill the cavity with grease using a grease gun with a hose long enough to reach the bottom. Put the hose to the bottom and start pumping grease while backing out the hose. The key is to completely fill the cavity with grease and no air pockets. Then screw the puller back in and try again. You now have the hydraulic action of the grease being squeezed by the puller and the original force of the puller working together which will get almost all of them off. If not a LITTLE heat at the base of the clutch will expand the clutch and the grease and that bad boy will jump right off. It's messy but it works.
Others may not agree with me but I pull alot of clutches and flywheels and they are not a problem for me.
Just my 2 cents, Phil (opsled)
Click to expand...

All very true! That is GREAT information!
 
opsled said:
You need an automotive style damper pulley puller or equivelent. The key to pulling flywheels, clutches or anything else for that matter is good quality HARD!!!! pullers, bolts and washers that do NOT!!! bend, streatch or mushroom out. I have been a diesel and heavy equipment mechanic and have had to pull and push some very tough stuff and have learned that soft tools just don't work. Puller arms that bend, bolts that streatch and washers that mushroom can take away 50% or more of the force that could be applied with the right stuff. You wouldn't pound a soft nail with a soft hammer into oak because it doesn't work. Pressed, tapered, keyed steel on steel flywheel pulling needs better tools than pounding nails so get them. You don't need top of the line but a good beefy puller that looks to be well made should do the trick. Most pullers (even expensive ones) come with cheap bolts that are grade 5 at best. I use hardened allen head cap screws with matching hardened machine washers that are at least grade 8. I get the bolts adjusted so the puller is straight, grease the threads and tip, tighten it by hand and use my 1/2" Ingersol Ran impact wrench that developes 450ftlbs of torque. (low air preasure and weak air wrenches are a waste of time) I put on a big heavy welding type glove on one hand (to protect my hand) and hold the puller with it while burping the air wrench on the puller bolt and they ALL come off almost instantly. It's the combination of the HARD tools and the fast hard hitting impact that the Ingesol has that gets it done. There are no soft bolts or washers absorbing energy it is all transfered. The test for my method is the difference between smacking 2 cheap hammers together and smacking 2 good ball pean hammers together. The ball peans will bounce back quick and hard because they transfer all the energy between the hammers instantly. With soft hammers alot of it is absorbed and lost during impact. By using these tools and this method you don't bend bolts, pull out threads or damage cranks. Holding the PULLER and NOT the flywheel takes all the rotational impact of the air wrench away from the crank and allows it to float so you won't hurt it. 2 stroke cranks can take alot of rotational force but are NOT designed to take the directional force of smacking it on the end with a hammer. That method can bend cranks, break bearings and cases and actually drive the crank in on it's pins. Leave the hammer under the bench. It is not needed and you can do more damage with it than good. Removing a clutch is the same way, good quality puller, strong air wrench and hold the CLUTCH with a gloved hand. If you get a stubborn one remove the puller and fill the cavity with grease using a grease gun with a hose long enough to reach the bottom. Put the hose to the bottom and start pumping grease while backing out the hose. The key is to completely fill the cavity with grease and no air pockets. Then screw the puller back in and try again. You now have the hydraulic action of the grease being squeezed by the puller and the original force of the puller working together which will get almost all of them off. If not a LITTLE heat at the base of the clutch will expand the clutch and the grease and that bad boy will jump right off. It's messy but it works.
Others may not agree with me but I pull alot of clutches and flywheels and they are not a problem for me.
Just my 2 cents, Phil (opsled)
Click to expand...
We keep quoteing brother phil this thread will go 15 pages.lol i think the three philips headed bolts are the worst thing to undoe in the job. :rofl: :bump: :rofl:
 
bluewho said:
We keep quoteing brother phil this thread will go 15 pages.lol i think the three philips headed bolts are the worst thing to undoe in the job. :rofl: :bump: :rofl:
Click to expand...

That is also very true, those can be a nightmare to remove. Usually I light tap the screwdriver into the screws just to make sure it is seated firmly, and then i push as HARD AS POSSIBLE to that the heads dont get rounded out.
 
yamaholic22 said:
That is also very true, those can be a nightmare to remove. Usually I light tap the screwdriver into the screws just to make sure it is seated firmly, and then i push as HARD AS POSSIBLE to that the heads dont get rounded out.
Click to expand...

I cannot believe that I forgot about the troubles I had removing the Phillips drive screws that secure the flywheel and the stator wiring retainers. I was using a brand new Phillips screw driver and still rounded all of the recesses out. After listing a post here on TY, a couple guys turned me onto using an impact screw driver. Back to Harbor Freight and I bought one of these for $7.00. I could not believe how well it worked.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37530

G.B.
 
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