Ring replacement

norwegian

norwegian

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I am going to replace the piston rings on my 02 srx, which has 7020 km on it.
What I need to know is, how do I break them in? Should I use mineral or semi synthetic or syntethic oil? For how long? How many km/miles do you have to break them in?
Thanks
 

Huh!!!!!

You have 4200 miles on that engine,she is still good to go.You just finished breaking in the engine now.Why change rings.
MySXR has 10,000 km`s and still going strong.My SRX has only 3400 miles,it is just broken in.My dealer told me a while back,with the quality of the rings and cylinders, at 3000 miles the engine is just just breaking itself in.
 
First do a compression check, if it is within specs leave it alone. If not rering it, run yamalube through it for 1 gallon. It is now ready for what ever oil you chose. Just remeber if you have been running syn, and have leaned it out, put it back to stock for break in. First 100 miles ride it like a virgin, nice and smooth and loving, after that ride it like a second street whore. Its aYamaha it will take it. Maxdlx
 
under hard load from the second you start it and it has warmed up. find a hill, ride like hell up it and coast down or find a lake, accellerate to top speed, turn around and do it again and again and again. allways keep the sled under load, avoid long periods of free wheeling.
 
poor ring sealing wont make the DCS light go off, if for say your rings were letting blow by into the fresh case fuel/air mixture what it will do is make the sled run richer as the extra fuel thats in the blow by would be contaminating the fresh mixture, basicly diluting the charge(making it weaker), the sled would simply be down on power output, not show detonation. I think your problem simply is fuel quality. You need to boost your octane level in your fuel OR jet the sled richer from the needle and the main, the drawbacks are the sled will most likely lose some power from overly rich jetting but it will keep the light off if it bothers you. As long as the DCS/light doesnt go into the mode of retarding the rpm of the engine is it really going to detract from the engine/sled performance.

what about mixing some race fuel and or 100LL(low lead aviation fuel) is this possible where you live?? It wouldnt take much, like say a 70/30 mix of premium and 100LL. There are other ways of raising your octane with other chemicals, I am NOT a chemist but alot(MOST) of them such as tolene, acetone and etc, are not only poisnoius to breathe but harmfull to certain componets such as plastic etc. If you google search "raising gasoline octane" you can find out alot of interesting information.Klotz sells some nitro additive, I have used that with great success, its basicly a additive with oxygen.

NOTE: I am not telling you to add anything other then 100LL, just giving you information to research, if you poision the the air or yourself, your on your own...LOL!
 
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Thanks. I will try filling up at one station, then ride some and empty the tank and fill up in another to see if it is the fuel quality. I come to think of, what if the gas station where I usually fill up at are refilled with the "wrong fuel" in their tanks sometimes, like 95 in the 98 tank and vice versa..
 
BETHEVIPER said:
under hard load from the second you start it and it has warmed up. find a hill, ride like hell up it and coast down or find a lake, accellerate to top speed, turn around and do it again and again and again. allways keep the sled under load, avoid long periods of free wheeling.
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I agree!!! And i think that you have a few more safe miles left before you need to re-ring it. I like to do rings on the yammi 2 strokes around 5-6000 miles if using a good quality synthetic. Yamaha rings wear just like anyone elses, and you are giving up performance that you could easily gain back by throwing a new set of rings in it. A leak down test will be your best indicator of ring condition. Gives you a much better indication of the condition of the engine than a compression test.
 
I USUALLY rering after 3000 miles using YAMALUBE and 6000 using SYNTHETIC.. YOU SEE,,,,I don't use YAMALUBE and personally, I think they should QUIT SELLING it at YAMAHA dealers because of a BUNCH OF REASONS!!!! You could buy WALMART or FARM AND FLEET snowmobile oil and be getting the EXACT same gallon (or quart) of OIL for HALF THE PRICE!!!! TEXACO HAVOLINE 2 stroke oil comes in a BLACK BOTTLE just like YAMALUBE does and it's the SAME EXACT THING!!!!! PLEEZE don't get me started!!!
 
Are you sure NOSBOY? I thought the same thing... similar color oil and bottle, must be the same. Anyway I decided to tastes them both! The Yamalube leaves a bitter taste in my mouth compared to the other? :dunno:
 
I had a FRIEND (May he rest in peace), that worked at CITGO on 39th and CICERO here in Chicago. It is a BIG STORAGE FACILITY and it receives BARGES full of product ALMOST DAILY.. I suppose its a storage and packaging facility.. My friend BOB used to bring me home GALLONS and QUARTS of 2 stroke oil ALL THE TIME that have been damaged... I suppose CITGO either lets the employees take the damaged containers HOME or they just steal it ( I dont know).. but BOB (not his real name) would tell me stories about "yamalube" getting filled from the SAME TANK as the CHEAP NONAME oil at the FARM STORES!!! We had a LOT OF CONVERSATION about YAMALUBE and how the oil has to meet JASO standards in order for YAMAHA to endorse it,,, but,, nevertheless YAMAHA probably BUYS the CHEAPEST STUFF that they could find and make the MOST MONEY possible out of something that they have NOTHING to do with (thats business!!!)Please don't get me started AGAIN!!!!
 
yamaholic22 said:
A leak down test will be your best indicator of ring condition. Gives you a much better indication of the condition of the engine than a compression test.
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x2!!!!
 
lol, the bitter taste was cause by what I paid for it ($$$).

Couldn't resist, had to see if I could get you going! :hide:
 
Same with allot of products these days.

anyway, back to the subject,

how would one do a leakdown test on the cylinder. I have only done leakdown tests to see if I had everything sealed in the crankcase (6psi max through the intake port, block off the exhaust port with an aluminum plate and a piece of rubber), does the same apply here?


nosboy said:
but BOB (not his real name) would tell me stories about "yamalube" getting filled from the SAME TANK as the CHEAP NONAME oil at the FARM STORES!!!QUOTE]
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easiest way is to place the cylinder you want to check at near top dead center, you can simply use a phillips screw driver inserted thru spark plug hole to find TDC, just turn engine by hand till the screwdriver is at its peak height, then I slip a small bar thru the primary clutch and use a block of wood under each end of the rod so the crank can not turn, once you apply air pressure to the cylinder it will want to spin the engine over till it opens up the exhaust port to release the pressure if you dont block it. Apply your pressure then watch the guage for your drop, give all 3 cylinders the same amount of time, and they need to be within reason from each other.

If one seems low or bleeds off fast remove rod from clutch and etc. squirt some oil in the spark plug hole and pull the rope a few times and then recheck, if it comes up, takes longer to bleed off its got wasted rings(tensions weak).
 
and agian make sure that the primary cant turn, I love doing leak down tests at work on our aircrafts im the fat guy so i have to hold the prop and find tdc and make sure not to move or it will flip you over. I wheigh 250lbs and have had it pick me off the ground.

good luck
 
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