front axle removal on viper

viper48

viper48

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Joined
Dec 12, 2006
Messages
200
Age
45
Location
Prior Lake, MN
I am doing a 136" Tracks USA extension on Labor Day weekend. I was wondering about replacing the bearings on the drive axle. I bought the bearing for the left side of the axle, and was wondering if there is a bearing that I should replace in the chain case for the right side. So I guess my question is do I need another bearing for the chain case that fits on the drive axle or not. I am replacing the bearings just because I will have it out, not because they are worn or bad. My sled only has 2000 miles. 2002 Viper

:jump:

Any help or suggestions would be great.
 

Yes there is another one on the chaincase side, but I highly doubt that its bad.Yamaha bearings are very good quality, what I do is just check 'em out if they feel rough or are noisy replace otherwise run 'em.Ive talked with reputable repair shop in my area and they handle it as I've described, especially on the yami's as there parts are of such a good quality in the first place.Its your call, but this could save you some bucks especially with your low miles as I've saw these driveline bearings go 10,000+ miles with no issues.
 
Did you get your tunnel extension from them?Just curious as I'm getting my track and rail extensions from them this fall, but was leaning towards hartman or mt. performance as I've been told fromsome on this site that track's usa's does'nt have provisions for a rear cooler, I'll be doing some more thourgh research this fall and was just wondering about your tunnel extension.
 
There is a bearing, collar and oil seal in there. They are 6205 series bearings. Take care if you are not pulling the chain case when removing the drive shaft. There is potential there to damage that oil seal. You may want to have one of these on hand when you are doing the job. A just in case thing. It's a $5 part so it's shouldn't break the bank.

One source for parts research is ronnies microfiche. I use them for the exploded view diagrams and yamaha part numbers.
http://www.ronnies.com/micro.htm

Choose your year sled and what exploded view diagram you want.

Works for me.

Have fun.....
 
SWEDE said:
Did you get your tunnel extension from them?Just curious as I'm getting my track and rail extensions from them this fall, but was leaning towards hartman or mt. performance as I've been told fromsome on this site that track's usa's does'nt have provisions for a rear cooler, I'll be doing some more thourgh research this fall and was just wondering about your tunnel extension.
Click to expand...

I bought my tunnel extension from Dennis Kirk. Its an SLP tunnel, it is made for a 121" to 136". Looks like a pretty good piece. I have the SRX rear heat exchanger in my viper right now and it looks like this tunnel will accept my exchanger. I can let you know what happens over labor day weekend. That tunnel extension cost $89 if I remember right.

Thanks for the replies everyone......
 
Please let me know about your progress with your extension project as I am just thinking of ordering parts. I would like to know as much as possible on the how to's of this project. I have never done this before so any help is appreciated!

Thanks!
Rob
 
with only 2000 miles I wouldn't worry about the bearings unless it was sunk in a lake or something like that. good luck with you project!
 
I check bearings all the time but only replace they when they are bad or starting to feel a little loose. When you have them out just check them over and look close with a magnifying glass. If they look pitted or worn replace them if not putting in a new bearing will gain you nothing. You can pop out the seals on sealed bearing very easy with a small screwdriver or knife, wash them out, look them over, repack and pop the seals back in them in just a couple of minutes. I do this all the time and almost never have bearing issues and replace very few.

opsled
 
opsled said:
I check bearings all the time but only replace they when they are bad or starting to feel a little loose. When you have them out just check them over and look close with a magnifying glass. If they look pitted or worn replace them if not putting in a new bearing will gain you nothing. You can pop out the seals on sealed bearing very easy with a small screwdriver or knife, wash them out, look them over, repack and pop the seals back in them in just a couple of minutes. I do this all the time and almost never have bearing issues and replace very few.

opsled
Click to expand...

I agree!!!

Also, do not pull the drive shaft out without pulling out the chaincase. For the extra five minutes it takes to pull the chaincase out you will be thanking yourself up and down for doing it. It makes pulling and reinstalling the driveshaft WAY easier when you're under there trying to fumble around with moving the driveshaft inside of the track that is hitting up against the tunnel and heat exchanger, etc. TRUST ME, it is just way easier to pull the chaincase. That way you also won't damage the oil seal on the lower bearing, and it gives you a good opportunity to clean out behind the chaincase. There is always a pile of crap behind there if you do any offtrail at all.
 
Be sure to check the jackshaft bearings too. At 2000 miles they should be fine, but the one behind the secondary likes to go first and can be very expensive if it does. If you follow the procedure carefully (do not take the parking brake apart), everything goes smoothly. If you try to cut corners, you will likely get very frustrated.
 
Having done an extension and track swap on my viper, I would personally recomend replacing everything bearing/seal wise in the driveline. You can do it for a little over $100 if you buy aftermarket chaincase bearings for parts unlimited or somewhere. This way you know for sure everything is new and won't break for a while (hopefully). Just my 2 cents, good luck with the extension.
 
Richierich....I guess if the back is to short I will just have do some fab work. I see on one thread here a guy just used his stock end tunnel off his viper and used it to lengthing his tunnel extension that wasn't long enough also. How far down does that tunnel extension have to be to use an srx heat exchanger. The SLP is 4".

Thanks
 
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