Just started racing asphalt and I love it Have another event to go to sept 15 Need more power, any ideas??
thanks
thanks
Rambunctious
New member
I added nitrous to my srx
spent $400 on a used system
I can pull my buddies clutched APEX
and you use the power only when you need it, (vs. ported, headwork, etc)
spent $400 on a used system
I can pull my buddies clutched APEX
and you use the power only when you need it, (vs. ported, headwork, etc)
just curious, how fast are ya going on the asphalt?
just over 100mph in an 1/8 mile @ 6.8 E.T
that would be 11.20's or so in the 1/4 mile. Not bad times, you can however get a stock srx to run in the upper 10's. What are ya running for gears and clutching?, I might be able to help ya tweak some more from it. I found some decent times on the asphalt with the stock jetting and the airbox removed. They like fuel uptop, but if your only running the 1/8th you can jet it down some.
What are your 60ft times? This is the easiest place to make the sled faster(suspension work), suspension is major on the asphalt, every 1/10th you take off the 60ft is 2/10ths down at the end of the track.
I would be glad to help if you want it.
What are your 60ft times? This is the easiest place to make the sled faster(suspension work), suspension is major on the asphalt, every 1/10th you take off the 60ft is 2/10ths down at the end of the track.
I would be glad to help if you want it.
I'm running 21/37 for gears and 89a-10 stock spring and 51/43 in the secondary. That is the first set up I have tried on the asphalt, my primary blew up along with my heel clickers at the end of last winter. I also have the front and rear end lowered. And for the carbs 143.5 mains with uni filters, as for the 60ft 1.65. Although the track I am using 15" is finished so I will be installing a new narrow track.
You have some good parts to work with, the 89a-10s will work pretty good, maybe try a y/s/y spring and 3.4/2.4 rivets, gearing will be good for 1/8th, 51/43 with a red secondary about 70-80, you can try and go lower once your close and see if the sled picks up, the looser the better usually on the tar, it all depends if you suck the belt or not on take off. I didnt ask how heavy of a rider on the sled.
This next part determines how hard your going to load or apply load to the engine and chassis as one, what I do is put the sled on a concrete floor and lay a shop light(the flur. ones are great) next to the track, now go on the opposite side of the sled and lay your cheek and face on the floor, if you can see light under the track your losing traction in those areas. To get the skid to sit flat I usually take all the spring pressure off the front shock, the front shock is just along for the ride on asphalt, and tighten up the limiter straps, the move to the rear shock loosen it up till about 3/4" of threads showing, FRA adjuster in the stiff spot, now on the transfer rods add shims to the BOTTOM of the rods, this will suck down the rear of the skid and allow it to sit flat. You will also need to adjust the front ski shock spring tensions to get it all perfect from front to back.
The one thing to keep an eye out for is to keep about 3/8"-7/16" inch clearance between the ground and the drivers bottom, this way you wont bend the driveshaft if you hit a bump, you want the skid STIFF!
This next part determines how hard your going to load or apply load to the engine and chassis as one, what I do is put the sled on a concrete floor and lay a shop light(the flur. ones are great) next to the track, now go on the opposite side of the sled and lay your cheek and face on the floor, if you can see light under the track your losing traction in those areas. To get the skid to sit flat I usually take all the spring pressure off the front shock, the front shock is just along for the ride on asphalt, and tighten up the limiter straps, the move to the rear shock loosen it up till about 3/4" of threads showing, FRA adjuster in the stiff spot, now on the transfer rods add shims to the BOTTOM of the rods, this will suck down the rear of the skid and allow it to sit flat. You will also need to adjust the front ski shock spring tensions to get it all perfect from front to back.
The one thing to keep an eye out for is to keep about 3/8"-7/16" inch clearance between the ground and the drivers bottom, this way you wont bend the driveshaft if you hit a bump, you want the skid STIFF!
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gates gear up to 22-37 the gearing will be perfect your sled want's to run about 8250rpm's.On the 01 with 22-38 @8500 rpms the sled will run oiut of gear about 25 ft before the finish line and over rev.
Put your stock jetting back in and remove the filters and box all together.Aspahalt is clean.I recommend putting the filters back on after the race if your hauling it on an open trailer.
Put your stock jetting back in and remove the filters and box all together.Aspahalt is clean.I recommend putting the filters back on after the race if your hauling it on an open trailer.
Hey Ryan, hes only running the 1/8th from what I gather.
oh sorry,lol
If it helps any i'm 135 lbs. I'm also not sure on the rivet weight I have in there but on the stand @ WOT the tach hits 8500 holds for a second and then clims quick to 9200?
I was also talking to Gerry Prosser from Bender and he told me a srx 700 with the Bender big bore pipes and reeds would make around 160 hp and with porting around 170hp? Don I also have some pics of some case and intake work I have done maybe I could send them to you and you could let me know if I really gained anything by doing so?
Thanks
I was also talking to Gerry Prosser from Bender and he told me a srx 700 with the Bender big bore pipes and reeds would make around 160 hp and with porting around 170hp? Don I also have some pics of some case and intake work I have done maybe I could send them to you and you could let me know if I really gained anything by doing so?
Thanks
ya, sure I will take a peek at it for you, my email is : dpizor@hotmail.com
you wont be able to check anything clutching wise accurately with the sled on a stand, they will over rev quite easily as there is no real load on it to spin the track in the air. Do you have a gram scale?
thats correct information from Prosser.
you wont be able to check anything clutching wise accurately with the sled on a stand, they will over rev quite easily as there is no real load on it to spin the track in the air. Do you have a gram scale?
thats correct information from Prosser.
I borrowed a friends but it only goes to 50 grms, I have been looking for one on ebay.
jabber800
New member
Gates try The Source, they have a gram scale we tested last week. Worked well.
How much weight can they register?
I dont know about Canada, but if you have any kind of office supply store around you, they sell gram scales for mail and other uses, here in the states we have Office Max, Staples etc they all sell gram scales. Also you can get them on Ebay as well. I picked up a small pocket sized one off ebay thats great for use in the field when doing clutch weight changes with say Heel clickers or other aftermarket adjustble weights. cheap too, under $25 bucks to my door.
Don have you received those pics I e-mailed you, if so what do you think?
Hey,,, I had a 99SRX that I setup for asphalt a MILLION YEARS AGO... If you go to BENDER RACING,,,, ask them to tell you the story about when I (nosboy) came there to pickup a primary clutch part on the way to a race in New York... Its REAL FUNNY!!!! Gary Oles nosboy