JeepTherapy
New member
Really struggling trying to make up my mind on track/stud configuration for my Viper. I have an 04 ER with 3600 or so miles. I also have a set of Bender pipes, plan the Bender head mod and an opticool gasket. I have installed heal clickers but haven't tuned them yet. (ran out of snow) That will be it for modifications. I don't consider myself an aggressive rider but I love the feeling of acceleration. I live and ride exclusively in the UP so far. Most of my riding is during the day on groomed trails.
My goals;
I want to be able to lift the skis when I hammer it. Right now all it does is spin the track.
I want to be able to line up on a lake and not be ashamed of my sleds performance. I don't need to be the fasted sled on the lake, just respectable.
I want to be able to take the occasional cross country jaunt without being in constant fear of getting stuck.
What I have considered;
I have thought about just going to a 121 Ripsaw. The way I understand that track I would do well on the hardpack trails and OK off trail. On ice it wouldn't be stellar.
121 Ice Ripper too tall for my sled without changing drivers? But would add some performance on ice.
Studding my existing track. Best for ice racing? Cheapest? Not so great off trail?
136 Ripsaw or Ice Ripper... Gosh darn expensive and a lot of work but would be very good off trail and very good on trail OK for Ice racing? My concerns are weight, cost and labor. I already can barely lift the back of my sled dry. I am sure with the added weight of track and extensions I couldn't lift it dry and if I get it stuck I am really screwed.
Any advise would sure be appreciated.
My goals;
I want to be able to lift the skis when I hammer it. Right now all it does is spin the track.
I want to be able to line up on a lake and not be ashamed of my sleds performance. I don't need to be the fasted sled on the lake, just respectable.
I want to be able to take the occasional cross country jaunt without being in constant fear of getting stuck.
What I have considered;
I have thought about just going to a 121 Ripsaw. The way I understand that track I would do well on the hardpack trails and OK off trail. On ice it wouldn't be stellar.
121 Ice Ripper too tall for my sled without changing drivers? But would add some performance on ice.
Studding my existing track. Best for ice racing? Cheapest? Not so great off trail?
136 Ripsaw or Ice Ripper... Gosh darn expensive and a lot of work but would be very good off trail and very good on trail OK for Ice racing? My concerns are weight, cost and labor. I already can barely lift the back of my sled dry. I am sure with the added weight of track and extensions I couldn't lift it dry and if I get it stuck I am really screwed.
Any advise would sure be appreciated.
nailsandrails
VIP Member
It sounds like the 9830 would be your best bet. Search the forums for 9830 and see what others have to say. It is a 1in. so no changing drivers although you will find this is debatable when going to a 1.25. The 1.25 version is the 9818 I believe.
nailsandrails
VIP Member
I should have noted....This was assuming you would stud the 9830. No track is going to be good on ice without studs. You may be able to find a used one on here or ebay with some digging.
ExpertXViper
New member
1in Predator or 1in Hacksaw if you want to stud, track depends on the conditions you ride in most. I personally wouldnt waste my money on a Ice Ripper. Im running a 9818 1.25in Predator Non-Studded on my Viper but havent had a chance to test it out. But when I installed the track I removed the tunnel protectors and front exchanger protectors, mainly cause I dont see a point in cutting up your track to make it fit when you can just take parts off to make room. Dont plan on studding was another reason for removel of the protectors.
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JeepTherapy
New member
If I replace the track I probably wouldn't stud. My thought on studding the original track was simply economics. If I stud and don't like riding (or getting it into my enclosed trailer) with studs I am not out much to then replace the track. My priorities would be;
First trail riding with good acceleration
Second off trail with mostly the ability to get from point A to point B
Lastly traction on ice
Will the studs in the stock track add any off trail capability or hindrance?
I should also add that I have never ridden a sled with studs and I am a little intimidated by the thought of them.
Also thought I should add that my stock track is in very good condition. No cuts, tears, missing lugs or anything like that.
Also, (geez, more questions...) how much does the predator improve traction over the stock track on typical hard packed trails?
First trail riding with good acceleration
Second off trail with mostly the ability to get from point A to point B
Lastly traction on ice
Will the studs in the stock track add any off trail capability or hindrance?
I should also add that I have never ridden a sled with studs and I am a little intimidated by the thought of them.
Also thought I should add that my stock track is in very good condition. No cuts, tears, missing lugs or anything like that.
Also, (geez, more questions...) how much does the predator improve traction over the stock track on typical hard packed trails?
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xsivhp
Active member
With the HP your sled will be putting out with the mods you mentioned - I would definitely stud it. I've ridden with and without studs, you really can't beat them. I don't have them on my sled for one reason - cost too much to put them on with a 1.25 track. I think snowdust may be onto something with the 9830 mentioned above and some studs or a Hacksaw and some studs.
I have a Viper and added studs in the second season of MI trail riding. I have the stock 03 track and some say it stinks? lol
I like the ability to stop faster. Without studs depending on the track you slide.
I have 144 centered Woddy Goldiggers that are squared to the track with double aluminum backers. It is Safer with studs for breaking.
I like the ability to stop faster. Without studs depending on the track you slide.
I have 144 centered Woddy Goldiggers that are squared to the track with double aluminum backers. It is Safer with studs for breaking.
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nailsandrails
VIP Member
Without studs I think you'll find the ripsaw or the 9818 as your top choices. Since you mention going off trail occasionally the 9818 appears to be the way to go. This is only coming from reading all of the feedback on this board. I have ran the ripsaw, but not the 9818. I currently have the hacksaw and it is a solid choice if you are studding. The ripsaw was also excellent, but repeatedly people report the 9818 to be better off trail. No question you can't go wrong with either for what you have described.