I hope you guys can forgive me for such a basic question but I'm still learning. I just picked up an 03 Viper about a month ago for the girlfriend and an 04 Warrior this weekend for myself. I've never fogged any sleds in the past and never had any engine problems. I now have some serious $$$ into our hobby so I don't want any problems. Firstly, Do I need to fog these machines now that we are so close to another season of riding. Secondly do I even need to fog the 4 stroke Warrior? any tips would be appreciated.
THANKS!
THANKS!
Last edited:
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I have fogged mine 2 different ways.Last year actually used fogging oil and sprayed it into the carbs until engine dies.This past summer I just ran both my sleds with the choke full open at a fast idle,then slowly idle it down and let the engine die.It is a smokin then at that point.Starting up later is a b*tch,but at least all the inards are lubed up.
Here is my write up from a few years back for the 2strokes. It a bit late in the storage season now to worry about it but at the end of the riding season I would take care of it.
Tod
Snowmobile Summer Storage
Start sled and warm it all the way up.
Drain all the gas out of the tank. I use a siphon into a 5 gal gas can. Good rule is if it has a plastic gas tank drain it dry, if it has a steel tank fill it up so it does not rust.
Start sled and run it until it stops, use the enrichener as it starts to die to keep it going.
Attach your fogger lines into the carbs. On the newer triple motors you can go in at the carb boots right into the carburetors. If you have a Phazer you can pull off the small rubber plugs that cover the brass tubs that are on the intake boots, you can then put your fogger lines over the brass tubes. If it’s a twin with the boost bottle you can remove the boost bottle and make two plugs that will fit in place of the bottle and drill a hole in each one for your fogger lines.
Start spraying the fogger and start the sled. The sled will run on the fogger. Use the throttle just enough to keep the sled running. Run it until it is smoking well and let the motor slowly die as you are still spraying.
I use silicon spray all over every thing, track, bogie wheels, seat seams, hood straps (leave em unhooked), wiring, hand grips, basically all the rubber stuff.
Grease the suspension. Some people will loosen the track.
To keep the mice out put steel wool or a dryer sheet up the exhaust outlet. Put tape or a dryer sheet over the air box intake, maybe through one under the hood too.
When getting ready for that first ride of the new season, put in fresh gas and pull and pull and pull. After you have all that fogger cleaned out, install new plugs or at least clean the ones that are in there.
I don't think I can stress enough about getting all the fuel out of the system for the summer, I had worked at a dealership several years ago for several years and I cannot even begin to tell you how many carbs I have cleaned because people let the gas set in the carbs all summer. Then they wonder why the sled won’t run right. Same with bikes over the winter. The jets and passages in the small carbs are not very forgiving and the gas goes bad very quickly.
Tod
Tod
Snowmobile Summer Storage
Start sled and warm it all the way up.
Drain all the gas out of the tank. I use a siphon into a 5 gal gas can. Good rule is if it has a plastic gas tank drain it dry, if it has a steel tank fill it up so it does not rust.
Start sled and run it until it stops, use the enrichener as it starts to die to keep it going.
Attach your fogger lines into the carbs. On the newer triple motors you can go in at the carb boots right into the carburetors. If you have a Phazer you can pull off the small rubber plugs that cover the brass tubs that are on the intake boots, you can then put your fogger lines over the brass tubes. If it’s a twin with the boost bottle you can remove the boost bottle and make two plugs that will fit in place of the bottle and drill a hole in each one for your fogger lines.
Start spraying the fogger and start the sled. The sled will run on the fogger. Use the throttle just enough to keep the sled running. Run it until it is smoking well and let the motor slowly die as you are still spraying.
I use silicon spray all over every thing, track, bogie wheels, seat seams, hood straps (leave em unhooked), wiring, hand grips, basically all the rubber stuff.
Grease the suspension. Some people will loosen the track.
To keep the mice out put steel wool or a dryer sheet up the exhaust outlet. Put tape or a dryer sheet over the air box intake, maybe through one under the hood too.
When getting ready for that first ride of the new season, put in fresh gas and pull and pull and pull. After you have all that fogger cleaned out, install new plugs or at least clean the ones that are in there.
I don't think I can stress enough about getting all the fuel out of the system for the summer, I had worked at a dealership several years ago for several years and I cannot even begin to tell you how many carbs I have cleaned because people let the gas set in the carbs all summer. Then they wonder why the sled won’t run right. Same with bikes over the winter. The jets and passages in the small carbs are not very forgiving and the gas goes bad very quickly.
Tod
daman
New member
Know matter how you do it just make sure you do it,i don't think it's as necessary on the 4 stroker, i do mine every spring when i put them up
but now that's it's close to winter you may not bother but it's up to you.
use fuel stabile too in the gas.
but now that's it's close to winter you may not bother but it's up to you.
use fuel stabile too in the gas.
I like storing motors and fuel systems with ATF!!!! I'll explain if you are interested...
They recommend fogging the 4 strokers in the owners manual, even with the newer fuel injection models. I wouldn't worry about it now but change the oil in the warrior if it hasn't been done and you should be good to go.
I don't fogg but I do start my sled and my bro's(05 warrior) every week all summer(fuel stabilizer in the gas). Haven't had a problem yet. Stated doing this back in the mid 80's on the dad's old 340 enticer. Damn thing was beating new 340's till someone stole it. 
kirkswim.. the ABSOLUTE WORST thing you could possibly do to your OR your brothers sled!!!!!
The BAD THING is that you've been doing it for 20+ years!!!!! I WOULDNT want to buy a used sled (or even steal) one of YOUR SLEDS!!!!
I think people just print that NONSENSE just to get a RISE out of me!!!!! IT WORKED!!!!
Concept Carbon
New member
lol, nosboy it seems this topic and your nerves dont mix.
If you do a search you will find lots of stuff on this and a verry detail atf method from nosboy.
I myself ussually mix the leftover gas about 20:1(with syn mix hp2) and take it for a smoken boot around the house, then drain the fuel in the tank. and pour the same oil in the cyl and turn it over by hand a couple times.
Before my first ride I remove the carbs clean them really well. clean out the oil in the exhaust.
I find this really softens up the carbon on the power valves.
If you do a search you will find lots of stuff on this and a verry detail atf method from nosboy.
I myself ussually mix the leftover gas about 20:1(with syn mix hp2) and take it for a smoken boot around the house, then drain the fuel in the tank. and pour the same oil in the cyl and turn it over by hand a couple times.
Before my first ride I remove the carbs clean them really well. clean out the oil in the exhaust.
I find this really softens up the carbon on the power valves.
Nosboy no offense but the post I printed is because it is what I have done in the past. Another helpful member here posted the fact that you previously wrote a post on here (http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=30908&highlight=fogging+atf) about this issue. Next time instead of bashing me for writing about what I have done in the past please try to point me and others in the right direction.
Sorry about the slight hijack to this thread everybody.
Sorry about the slight hijack to this thread everybody.
Please accept my apology if you felt that I bashed you!!! I am NOT THAT intelligent to remember where I read or WROTE a post a few months ago,,, so,, in an effort to HELP others,,, I probably take it for granted that you've read the posts and FORGOT everything you've read!!!! Therefore I am just REMINDING YOU (in my OWN HEAD) instead of BASHING YOU (in YOUR head)...... Needless to say,,,, the idea of starting a sled up every week or every month during it's storage time is ABSOLUTELY HORRIBLE for the "health" of the sled!!!!!! One of the BYPRODUCTS of COMBUSTION is WATER!!! UNLESS you OPERATE that vehicle (DRIVING IT) to achieve NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE and CONTINUE driving it and HEATING THE ENTIRE SLED UP to "NORMAL" operating temperature for around 15 or 20 minutes... You HAVEN'T achieved enough heat to vaporize the MOISTURE and the water from your ENGINE and EXHAUST system..... WHEN you shut the sled off after 5 or 10 minutes of IDLING in the shed or garage,, you are AGGRIVATING the moisture condition,,,,, SCARRING your cylinder walls and BEARINGS, PROMOTING OXIDATION through the FRESHLY scratched bearing surfaces and cylinder surfaces,, and thus PROMOTING EVEN MORE destruction when you TRY IT AGAIN NEXT WEEK or NEXT MONTH!!!!!! see my point??? Gary Oles nosboy
Yes I see your point. I was told by others(before I joined this site) to do this. When I start it I run the sled for 3 min at idle then for 10 min on jackstand at min 5000rpm or 50kph watching the coolant temps(so as not to over heat) with a hose to run cold water on my rear cooler is temps are getting to high. I was original told to do this because everything moves then, the track and all the bearings(wheels, chaincase and jackshaft). Also this way it would get the exhaust hot and help to evaporate any moisture that has entered into the exhaust from sitting.
I think I will try the ATF way next year. Which type of ATF are you using? I know some of them have friction modifier for clutches(to increase friction with some types of wet clutches) and I would not want to acidentally use this type and hurt my bearings and cylinder walls.
thanks
I think I will try the ATF way next year. Which type of ATF are you using? I know some of them have friction modifier for clutches(to increase friction with some types of wet clutches) and I would not want to acidentally use this type and hurt my bearings and cylinder walls.
thanks
the CHEAPEST ATF usually works the BEST!!!! It really doesn't matter which type of ATF because the friction modifiers arent going to hurt anything... As far as running the suspension with the sled jacked up,,, ANOTHER BAD IDEA!!!!! the geometry is all screwed up and it places unnecessary pressures on certain suspension wheels!!!! The TRACK needs to be sprayed down with Yamaha's LUBE ZALL if you want to do something like that,,,but,,,nevertheless,,,,, DON'T spin the track without a load on it!!! NOT A GOOD IDEA!!!! Stabilize and store the sled correctly and you can FORGET about it until NOVEMBER and the sled will be in a LOT BETTER SHAPE by leaving it ALONE!!!! Gary Oles nosboy