Air bubbles in my coolant system?

norwegian

norwegian

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I jetted my 02 srx for the very first time in the summer. Unfortunately, detatching the coolant lines from the carbs, made it lose some coolant, 7-8 table spoons. THe coolant ran out of the lines, so the lines now have air in them instead of coolant. How do I get the air out of the system? Do I need to do anything? I've heard that the srx has a self "burping" system?
thanks
 
Weg
don't worry about it. Those air bubbles are to small to block the system, they work themselves right out. I had the carbs off of my viper at least 20 times and never bled it, nor had a problem. Maxdlx
 
Thanks max. Just of pure curiousity, why have you had the carbs out 20 times?
I can see like 5-6 times on a 02, but 20?
 
lol hey now i've had mine off about that to, lol jetting, re-jetting, pain in the a$$ but ya gotta do it, i would say last year alone i had mine off at least 8 or 9 times... and the same as max, never bled anything
 
That is too funny. I'm more than 20 times and it seams routine to be in the carbs several times each year. I remember at first I dreaded the idea of removing the airbox disconnecting everything like it was such a large project. Now 10 minutes and I'm changing parts 15 more and its almost completed.
 
it shouldnt be a problem like stated but if ur realy worried about it just let the sled idel and keep checkin the heat exchangers if they all get warm the coolents flowing also keep an eye on ur motor temp if it gets too hot to touch for like 2-3 seconds then kill the motor and check ur heat exchangers if the rear or one of the sides wont warm up u have to bleed it at the rear under the seat.
 
Why? well heres the answer. My name is Paul, i am a tinkerhaulic. I just can't leave well enough alone. LOL Maxdlx
 
how can i bleed the system. I took the hoses off and i lost about a .5-.75 of a litre. What coolant should i re-fill it with and bleed it?
 
yamaha srx has a unique system in that the thermostat has a clever little bleed hole system built in it, and in the thermostat housing, thats why you need to make sure the thermostat is installed correctly if your in there for work . All that is needed most time is to simply remove the radiator cap and start the sled up at idle only!!!!The thermostat with small bleed hole will allow the waterpump to push any air in the system out the tank rather quickly(its alos the highest point in the cooling system). There is a bleeder screw as well on top of the rear heat exchanger if your doing a full drain and heat exchanger service, but for just opening up the engine for headwork, or carb work you wont need to mess with it, just start it up and it will purge the air rather easily out the tank.
 
About the coolant that you can use... we have long life stuff at work but its almost like a light yamaha blue, lol i thought itd be neat to run this stuff instead of the normal green stuff.... does anyone see a problem in doing this, it says its compatible with all types of antifreeze and we use it in all the tractors and trucks at work think itd be alright to use
 
The pink long life antifreeze is brutal on gaskets, eats them up. I would use regular green antifreeze. I'm no expert on antifreeze, but i've done a lot of intake and head gaskets. I'm actually putting a head back on a sunfire right now and it's getting the green stuff. I was told by a GM tech the long life antifreeze is the cause of most gasket failure.
 
really... never heard that b4... i do know that all the new tractors at work come with the blue stuff, and the older ones had the green in them, they never ran the pink stuff in them. But now theres yellow antifreeze to (i think ford uses this) but the blue is apparently the next generation stuff (not sure of this just what i was told by the boss lol) so i wasnt sure if it is better or worse, i know the green is tried and tested, and i do know that pink and green is not compatible at all but this stuff is, its called "es compleat" dont know what to think, just wondering on your guys thoughts??
 
A lot of those long life anti-freezes turn acidic over time. Some turn extremely acidic quickly, I think something must get left in the odd engine from the factory that reacts with the coolant because it is not consistant fron vehicle to vehicle. At any rate, find a GM vehicle with Dexcool in it that's afew years old, and check the PH level with litmus paper for your own curiosity, and see if you would want it in your engine. I have seen a 3.8L cyl head that the coolant ate right through the water jacket wall, and was coming out the side of the head!!! The head looked like it had been running suphuric acid for coolant.
 
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