Fro
New member
Did alot of work on my srx this summer: track, studs, viper rears, skid bushings, oversized idlers, alot of stipping/sanding/painting..you get the picture. The last thing on my list before I relax & wait for snow is a clutch kit. Everyone has an opinion & that's what's great. I've read tons here & elsewhere. As far as the aftermarket kits, I'm still foggy on exactly which kit & what # blah, blah, blah. I'm sure if I can sit down with a rep choose one. It does seem like the kits are a ton of $$ & you still need a helix.
I'm leaning towards the OEM stuff more due to $$. From what I've read, not from what I know...I'd get 8dn20's, 4.5g each hole, red primary(seems to be a few differing opinions here), still don't no what helix, green secondary somewhere between 60-90 wrap(depends on who you want to listen to).
When I say to some buds about the OEM stuff they say NO WAY..get the HC or HH or blah, blah. I just need to pick & go with it. I'm way to analytical. I've obviously got minimal experience in the mod department & just need that final push.
90% trail, 10% lake. Like the low end power, top speed not that big a deal. 170lbs + gear. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE. The Novi show starts tomorrow & I know if I don't go in with a gameplan I'll walk out with something expensive I may regret(& prolly can't return).
All opinions appreciated. Thanks, Fro.
I'm leaning towards the OEM stuff more due to $$. From what I've read, not from what I know...I'd get 8dn20's, 4.5g each hole, red primary(seems to be a few differing opinions here), still don't no what helix, green secondary somewhere between 60-90 wrap(depends on who you want to listen to).
When I say to some buds about the OEM stuff they say NO WAY..get the HC or HH or blah, blah. I just need to pick & go with it. I'm way to analytical. I've obviously got minimal experience in the mod department & just need that final push.
90% trail, 10% lake. Like the low end power, top speed not that big a deal. 170lbs + gear. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE. The Novi show starts tomorrow & I know if I don't go in with a gameplan I'll walk out with something expensive I may regret(& prolly can't return).
All opinions appreciated. Thanks, Fro.
ExpertXViper
New member
Either go with H/C which Rich(Rich Motorsports) may have at the show. Or go with the OEM stuff. My 01 is set up with 53/41 RX1 helix, green sec. wrapped at 60, DN8-20 with 4.5 in each hole, www prim. spring. Supposed to be a good improvment over stock. If your go with the stock stuff I have a extra set of DN8-20s that Ill sell ya for $35 picked up-$40 shipped but youll have to drill out all the rivets(3.6 in all) and replace them with 4.5.
If your not into tuning go with what expertxviper suggested, its a bolt in and go set up, very quick and for what your using it for perfect. The other aftermarket stuff is better if someone is looking for adjustable weights for differnt set up like racing one weekend then trail riding, etc. The stock parts combo he has above is a bolt in and play with a smile on your face set up. The primary spring youll need is the white/white/white from yamaha.
I prefer the super tip weights, but I think it is all personal preference. I had hh, and struglled, went to supertips, and was fast. I'm not a smart as most of these guys, actually not even close when it comes to clutching, just stating my results. Maxdlx
Rambunctious
New member
FRO
you are exactly where i was 18 months ago. turn key sleds until my srx.
I am very analytical too , and want to know what each part contributes and most importantly , why..
I am an engineer ( gets in the way sometimes)
go with the oem components ( new or used if you can find them) and you will feel rewarded as you tweek a couple things and learn the effects yourself instead of trusting a ( although good) turn key package and not knowing what to do to dial that last 10%.....
I learned all the recommendations from guys like mrviper and turk, they did all the testing for us.
since you are the analytical type, go with the parts and pieces. you will be happy. I got beat by my buddies 800 rev ho, did the research and ended up with EXACTLY what you will have ( long travel srx with the clutch components you mention) and I beat his rev the next season. VERY REWARDING.
he then trumped my with a new apex the next year, and I researched nitrous and built an entire kit. and beat him again the following.... (
VERY VERY REWARDING)
and when he asked me what i did, I could walk him through each component I added and could tell him what each did and why
just my advise and experience.
Ramb
you are exactly where i was 18 months ago. turn key sleds until my srx.
I am very analytical too , and want to know what each part contributes and most importantly , why..
I am an engineer ( gets in the way sometimes)
go with the oem components ( new or used if you can find them) and you will feel rewarded as you tweek a couple things and learn the effects yourself instead of trusting a ( although good) turn key package and not knowing what to do to dial that last 10%.....
I learned all the recommendations from guys like mrviper and turk, they did all the testing for us.
since you are the analytical type, go with the parts and pieces. you will be happy. I got beat by my buddies 800 rev ho, did the research and ended up with EXACTLY what you will have ( long travel srx with the clutch components you mention) and I beat his rev the next season. VERY REWARDING.
he then trumped my with a new apex the next year, and I researched nitrous and built an entire kit. and beat him again the following.... (
VERY VERY REWARDING)and when he asked me what i did, I could walk him through each component I added and could tell him what each did and why
just my advise and experience.
Ramb
Fro
New member
Rambunctious said:FRO
you are exactly where i was 18 months ago. turn key sleds until my srx.
I am very analytical too , and want to know what each part contributes and most importantly , why..
I am an engineer ( gets in the way sometimes)
go with the oem components ( new or used if you can find them) and you will feel rewarded as you tweek a couple things and learn the effects yourself instead of trusting a ( although good) turn key package and not knowing what to do to dial that last 10%.....
I learned all the recommendations from guys like mrviper and turk, they did all the testing for us.
since you are the analytical type, go with the parts and pieces. you will be happy. I got beat by my buddies 800 rev ho, did the research and ended up with EXACTLY what you will have ( long travel srx with the clutch components you mention) and I beat his rev the next season. VERY REWARDING.
he then trumped my with a new apex the next year, and I researched nitrous and built an entire kit. and beat him again the following.... (
and when he asked me what i did, I could walk him through each component I added and could tell him what each did and why
just my advise and experience.
Ramb
If you don't mind, what was your exact setup before the NOS. Thanks for the info. I was leaning OEM, now I'm about certain. I just wanna ride this winter, not wrench. I'd rather do that in the summer.
Rambunctious
New member
WWW primary
4.5g rivit in both holes ( 4.5g added to inner holes)
52/42 helix ( wanted the 51/43 out of an RX1) but close
red secondary wrapped to 70 ( over reved a little to 8800) a little shy on top end pull)
backed off to 60 deg wrap and it stayed in the powerband ( 8500 rpm)
I also had a 1" camo used track to replace the stock 7/8"
and long travel ( viper ) rear shocks
I really noticed the midrange pull with this setup ( that's where i pulled on the rev, and then the legs of the tripple tripple just kept me ahead)
now i think trurk suggests keeping the 47 deg stock helix with these components. the good news is it is a 5 minute swap and you can find out for yourself. one change, one improvement to measure.....
now in powder, the rev still smoked me with with his 136 track
so don't expect the 121 shallow lug srx to beat these new lug tracks, but on the hardpack or lake. this works
I bought a green secondary spring this year to try ( cheap parts and fun to dial in)
bottom line, on a 2000+ srx, you want the rpm's at 8500 . more than that and you begin to retard the timing and fall off the powerband quick.
the added rivit weight and the 51 deg initial angle in this combo lets the sled accellerate ( shift) faster on the bottom end BUT the motor can still keep up and not bog. that was the revelation by these guys.
hope this helps
Ramb
4.5g rivit in both holes ( 4.5g added to inner holes)
52/42 helix ( wanted the 51/43 out of an RX1) but close
red secondary wrapped to 70 ( over reved a little to 8800) a little shy on top end pull)
backed off to 60 deg wrap and it stayed in the powerband ( 8500 rpm)
I also had a 1" camo used track to replace the stock 7/8"
and long travel ( viper ) rear shocks
I really noticed the midrange pull with this setup ( that's where i pulled on the rev, and then the legs of the tripple tripple just kept me ahead)
now i think trurk suggests keeping the 47 deg stock helix with these components. the good news is it is a 5 minute swap and you can find out for yourself. one change, one improvement to measure.....
now in powder, the rev still smoked me with with his 136 track
so don't expect the 121 shallow lug srx to beat these new lug tracks, but on the hardpack or lake. this works
I bought a green secondary spring this year to try ( cheap parts and fun to dial in)
bottom line, on a 2000+ srx, you want the rpm's at 8500 . more than that and you begin to retard the timing and fall off the powerband quick.
the added rivit weight and the 51 deg initial angle in this combo lets the sled accellerate ( shift) faster on the bottom end BUT the motor can still keep up and not bog. that was the revelation by these guys.
hope this helps
Ramb
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Rambunctious
New member
with NOS , I am over reving to 9200 !!!! and added some 5.5g to the tip, helps on the gas but feels a little lazy on the bottom end off the gas . So that is why i may try the stiffer green helix. Unfortunatley I can't have it perfect for two peak power outputs ( on and off gas). so I am still tweeking, but I feel I know a little about what affects what now.
Ramb
Ramb
Fro
New member
Thanks alot.
Not to hijack this thread but I was considering a clutch kit as well. I have never worked on a clutch before, how hard is this to install and tune? I just read the changing clutch compenets in the the tech section, makes it look fairly easy. Is there a way to change rivets w/o the rivet tool?
ExpertXViper
New member
Digging into the clutchs is really no thing as long your handy with tools and you know what everything is and where it goes. My first experience with clutchs I had a member Randy(Ding) come over and help me out cause I was also new to wrenching on SLEDS all around but once we started wrenching on the clutchs it was easier than I thought.
The way I remove rivets:
1 Grind squished side FLAT and close as possible to the weight
2 Center punch rivet
3 Drill a hole 1/2 way through the rivet
4 Take a small diameter FIXED(not spring loaded) center punch
5 Either hammer it out or find a vise, small socket, and push them out with the vise and center punch.
The vise way is how I do it, its much easier than hammering.
The way I remove rivets:
1 Grind squished side FLAT and close as possible to the weight
2 Center punch rivet
3 Drill a hole 1/2 way through the rivet
4 Take a small diameter FIXED(not spring loaded) center punch
5 Either hammer it out or find a vise, small socket, and push them out with the vise and center punch.
The vise way is how I do it, its much easier than hammering.
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