I know this topic has many posts, but I have a question that I have not see discussed. I just cleaned my carbs and checked my fuel screw settings before I removed them. They seemed to have been adjusted to 2 1/8 to 2 1/4 turns. I had a hanging idle issue up to the point I blew a crank bearing last year and which I had compensated by lowering my idle speed. My carbs looked really clean and I did not see any holes plugged up in the jets.
I am just finishing a complete engine rebuild and I am wondering were I should set my fuel screws? Should I go with the factory 1 7/8 setting or adjust them to around 2 full turns? What do you guys think?
Thanks, G.B.
I am just finishing a complete engine rebuild and I am wondering were I should set my fuel screws? Should I go with the factory 1 7/8 setting or adjust them to around 2 full turns? What do you guys think?
Thanks, G.B.
My 2 cents
I had set mine at @ 2 turns and the oil @ the lower end (rich) setting for the break-in, 1000 kms & then pulled the carbs out reset it to factory settings aswell as the oil to the higher (Lean) setting. Had no issues. I'm ready for this year and my set up is 1 7/8 fuel, 21.5mm oil, floats are set @ 14mm-this helps in not floading the engine after a hard pull, followed by a short stop & go...I'm assuming that yours is stock, no can or pipes-right & at dealer elevation setting...When mine blew it was a two part thing...dirty/bad fuel-carb as well as a mag side seal leak, I was told to do the rpm & jet thing, all it did was do more harm than good in my opinion...I leaned towards the rich side, do some pulls. Do the shutdown thing & pull plugs, this will tell ya more as well as the wash on the tops of the pistons...hope this helps & good luck
I had set mine at @ 2 turns and the oil @ the lower end (rich) setting for the break-in, 1000 kms & then pulled the carbs out reset it to factory settings aswell as the oil to the higher (Lean) setting. Had no issues. I'm ready for this year and my set up is 1 7/8 fuel, 21.5mm oil, floats are set @ 14mm-this helps in not floading the engine after a hard pull, followed by a short stop & go...I'm assuming that yours is stock, no can or pipes-right & at dealer elevation setting...When mine blew it was a two part thing...dirty/bad fuel-carb as well as a mag side seal leak, I was told to do the rpm & jet thing, all it did was do more harm than good in my opinion...I leaned towards the rich side, do some pulls. Do the shutdown thing & pull plugs, this will tell ya more as well as the wash on the tops of the pistons...hope this helps & good luck
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Millinocket Rocket
New member
Gone Blue said:
So you think the high idle hang had something to do with the burn down? Cause mine does the same thing-- I tried turning my screws out to 2 turns, then 2-1/4 turns, I even went up one size on my pilots and nothing worked. I haven't tried running it with the idle turned down though. Tried spraying starter fluid at the crank seals too-- and still nothing.
Millinocket Rocket said:
Set your idle closer to 1500/1600 rpm...did you do the starter fluid spry on a cold or or hot engine?...I prefer to use propane...cold & hot. It seem to be more sensitive...also make sure your chock is adjusted properly...On mine the mag side was because of the seal and the centre piston was bad fuel/green slim in that carb bowl...plus factoring in I did not clean my carbs that season...expensive lesson...If it ran good one season & not the next...Hummm, most likely an adjustment is not the fix, usually there is something greater going on...my thoughts
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Thanks Blues and Rocket for your comments. I am pretty convinced that I blew the crank bearing because the motor was never fogged. I dont believe the fuel screws had anything to do with it. The sled has always run flawless during the 7,000 miles I had on it. The plugs always looked good and the carbs looked super clean when I took them apart the other night. I think I am going to leave the fuel screws at the factory 1 & 7/8 setting and see how it runs. After completely rebuilding my sled from motor to skid, it wont be a big deal to pull the carbs and open up the fuel screws if needed.
Thanks again, G.B.
Thanks again, G.B.
Millinocket Rocket
New member
theblues-Thanks for the tips-- I'll have to try those this season. G.B.-- A set of those remote fuel screw adjusters would be nice for messing around with this too. Wouldn't it be nice to just open the hood and turn 3 screws instead of tearing carbs out every time! I know I wish I had 'em!