What is the best way of separating the gearbox from the jack shaft,how hard do I pull at it?
NY AttakGT
VIP Member
It does take some wiggling to get it off....up and down....rocking....blah blah blah. Sometimes the bearing/s are on the shafts pretty good. Just double check you have all the nuts & bolts out(eight 14mm, on the case I believe and the 14mm bolt and large (24, 25mm?)nut holding the upper and lower gears on) Hope this helps
There is a write up in the tech section on swapping a track (from top to bottom) Im sure someone will post the link...
--Steve (O.C.)
There is a write up in the tech section on swapping a track (from top to bottom) Im sure someone will post the link...
--Steve (O.C.)
Open up your chaincase and take out the gears. Take the four bolts off the chaincase, three bolts and one bolt held by a nut right beside the brake. Take the two bolts off the brake and remove brakes. Also take off the parking break, might have to take the anti-freeze bolt off (aluminum hose) cuz it stops the long bolt for the parking break from coming out. Should be able to pull it out now. Careful with the oil seals. When putting them back on I like to take out the spacers from the shaft and just stick them in the chaincase, that way your seals won't damage trying to put it back together.
rancidjo
New member
SRX-SKI said:Open up your chaincase and take out the gears. Take the four bolts off the chaincase, three bolts and one bolt held by a nut right beside the brake. Take the two bolts off the brake and remove brakes. Also take off the parking break, might have to take the anti-freeze bolt off (aluminum hose) cuz it stops the long bolt for the parking break from coming out. Should be able to pull it out now. Careful with the oil seals. When putting them back on I like to take out the spacers from the shaft and just stick them in the chaincase, that way your seals won't damage trying to put it back together.
Also make sure the track is loosened all the way...makes it a bit easier to get the chaincase off