I have a H/C kit, 53/43 helix and green secondary spring coming for my 04 bender piped viper that has been geared down one tooth on the top. I read mr viper's post a few times over about clutching with H/C's. For piped sleds it said to run as much heel waight as the sled will handle. I got some other advice saying to run 4 grams heel and tip leaving the center empty. I have Aaens clutch book coming and i'm sure it will be explained when i read it. I was just wondering why the difference of opinion?
So until you try to run the heel weight how did you know how much it will handle? maybe 4 grams is all the engine will handle before its sluggish?? I wouldnt say "conflicting information" because for one theres differnt ways to clutch a sled, you might very well come up with the same exact speed result, but 1 clutch set up will do something better then the othe at some point! You wont find any heel clicker tuning advice in the Aaen clutching book, however, you will find information to open your eyes as to how things are working, how to make them work efficiently and how to solve issues you have with clutch tuning. You will be faster if you can absorb the information and then apply it to your sled!
Maybe not conflicting but confusing. In your write up on clutching with H/C's you mention running as much heel waight as the sled will handle and leaving center and tip empty. This i understand, and its very simple. Just add and remove waight from the heel to find the sweet spot. On the other hand i was told to ad waight to the heel and tip leaving the center empty. Now i will have to test with adding and removing waight from both to find the sweet spot. Your suggestion is much easyer to tune with. The other is more involved unless i get it right off the hop witch is not likely. Because i'm new to this i would like to make it the least confusing as possible to start, and learn as i go. I guess i'll have to wait for the book to get a better understanding.
To tune the heel weight its nothing but basicly your engagement speed/low speed your talking about, so yes, again run as much heel weight as the engine will pull and not be sluggish. I think your making it out to be harder then it is, the heel weight controls your engagement speed and low speed take off, the middle hole controls just that your mid range, the tip weight controls your topend rpm. This is the basics and thats whats posted on the write up, its from the heel weight out to the tip, you do it in steps, heel,mid,tip, not all at one time when starting from scratch! theres other things that contribute to rpm in areas but I dont want to cloud up the water for you. the write up will get you going, follow the directions I posted and it will run.
It's starting to get clearer now. Thanks.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
JUSTAVIPER, ALWAYS REMEMBER YOU HAVE TO HAVE A STARTING POINT. THAN YOU HAVE TO TEST. ALL ENGINES ARE DFFERENT. GREAT OPTION OF THE H/C IS GREAT ACSESS FOR TUNEING. NOT VERY OFTEN IS CLUTCHING BOLT IN. 3:16 (yammie tony)