SRX rebuild questions......

D

davessrx

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Joined
Feb 21, 2007
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223
Age
44
Location
port washington WI
My almost stock 2001 srx now has 4700 miles on it. The only non oem items are transfer rods and the ripsaw 1.25" track. It has never had the clutches worked on and all seems well. I see lots of people on here including MRVIPER recommend at least rings at this mileage. So here is what I'd like to do... maybe soon, maybe not as the sled will hopefully be riding in the next month or so!!!.....Take the top of the engine apart and get it back to specs....new rings, pistons, whatever it needs. With this I would then love to clutch it for general trail riding and of course top speed. I do occasionally put someone in there place as my dad lives on a river and it is no issue to hold her open for a mile or more!!!! I know at the present time all seems well with the machine and it has descent compression and is very fast! I have been able to pull 121 out of the speedo no issue and that is with the tallest windshield available and me 225lbs. So should I wait or tear into her now???? Anyone interested in helping a guy clutch a SRX???? I am an auto tech so I don't mind working on sleds, a little simpler than todays cars, but I have no clutching tools and have never tinkered with clutching on sleds. Any input would be much appreciated, Dave. OH YEA, HAPPY TURKEY DAY TO ALL!!!!
 

for clutching talk to turk or mr viper they have helped me out on my srx....heres the combo i have white white white primary spring, 8 bu -00 wieghts with 4.5 gram in tip....secondary silver spring with 49-41 helix set at 70 degrees wrap....as for top end i am currently doing mine with new pistons rings pins and bearings sending the cyl in for porting....have done new reed vavle petals and cleaned carbs....also check the bushings in the clutches while you have them apart....as for clutch tools you don't need anything it can be done just a pain....could use a cluch puller tool worth about 20 bucks.....anything else just ask theres lots of guys on here who know a ton of info.....
 
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If you got 4700 miles on her and never been freshend up now is the time
wit parts in hand it takes no time at all, like chevyracer said new reeds,
rings, Mic your pistons out for wear limit(only alowed 3mm,thats not much)
clean your AND adjust your power valves and get your clutching where
you want it and you think it was fasr before she'll really run strong after
a good freshning up..

do it now!!!!
 
as for parts if your needing any give port yamaha a call.....i have ordered all my stuff from them and i am in canada....there customer service is excellent....i can get stuff shipped up here for half the price and in half the time to what my local yammy dealer can....if your doing topend reseal the power valves at the same time then you have a leak free clean engine....
 
www prim 8dn-20's w/4.5 in each.
grn sec wrapped at 70.
advant-edge helix 48/40.
Only run 8dn belts.
She'll rock.
I rebuilt mine at the end of last winter, pm me if you need some help.
mul.
 
Thanks Mulder I will PM you if that's ok. ...does anyone know what color the stock clutch spring are. I noticed mine are both black the primary with a white and yellow dot and secondary with a white and red dot. Maybe it's not stock, then what is it????
 
Dave, your stock primary spring will be black with a yellow,white,yellow dots on it, the secondary should be black with a red dot on it.
 
Started pulling clutches apart today, well secondary. I need a puller for the primary. The numbers on the secondary 1,2,3 inside and outer 0,3....6,9. So Mr Viper where should I set my new spring...2 and 6??? That is where the old one was. Does this sound stock? Thanks Dave also forgot, 4.5 grams=s 17.2mm, right? Just ordering parts. Thanx
 
Dave, the green spring is part number :90508-556A2-00

white/white/white primary spring part number: 90501-583L1-00

4.5 rivets(you need 3 of em, as you already have the other 3 in weights stock): 90261-06033-00
 
anything else I should look for? Does my 2 hole and 6 hole thing right for the secondary=80 wrap. I was thinking of taking the primary off(what wears on them?) had pooplaris and the clutch was worn out bad at 3k. My secondary on this looks really nice for the age!
 
yes, your correct on your secondary wrap setting, you just add the 2 numbers up and x10 is your wrap. 70-80 will be fine, its actually kinda a personal thing, your weight and the snow conditions will play a role in how much you need or dont need, a looser secondary will be faster topend but wont backshift as well trail riding, so youll have to find your personal sweet spot where you do 90 percent of your riding. Loose, wet snow will require more wrap, dry powdery snow will require less.

when you get the primary apart make sure the cover bushing is in good shape the moveable sheave slides back and forth smoothly, and the plastic buttons on the ends of the spider slide up and down freely with no binding. The rollers should be free and not overly loose on pins. I would also give it a good scrubbing in hot soapy water with a small tooth brush, then blow dry with compressed air.
 
ive set up many vipers pin kit from straightlineperf use cat weights gear down variable helix also if you do this you have to grind abit of the toe of the weight the advantage over heelclickers you do not have to cut clutch it will make the sled way quicker all the way threw also much better on fuel
 
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