Silly question on limiter straps?

bluemonster1

bluemonster1

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The manual states the standard adjustment is 32mm of thread.So if mine is around 20mm,that means I don't have much ski pressure and will always be struggling with stearing corners or what?What do most of you have yours set at.Right now my transfer rod setting is 50/50 with me on the sled.
 

Actually I just chaecked,I only have about 9 mm of thread showing.Front shock is at 0 preload,spring rattles on it.So Maybe I should tighten up a bit.That will keep my front end down more when I pin it.
 
Mind you,I have the SXR long travell skid in it now,but same specs probably with the straps.On Pioneer Performance site it is suggested to adj. for 1 1/8" from end of thread to the backing plate where the front nut is up against.Yamaha specs are about 1 1/4" from end of thread to the front of the nut.That is a bit of a difference from the above.
 
bluemonster1 said:
Actually I just chaecked,I only have about 9 mm of thread showing.Front shock is at 0 preload,spring rattles on it.So Maybe I should tighten up a bit.That will keep my front end down more when I pin it.
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I believe tightening up the front shock would take more pressure off the skis and cause the front to come up higher when you pin it but tightening up the strap would keep it down more.
 
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I meant tightening the limiters,not the actual shock adjuster nut.If I pull the limiters up more,it will get the front shock to start compressing a bit and the spring on the shock will start to compress slightly.But if I am way under the factory specs,my front end will come up easily when I pin it.
 
Take it easy.............relax........thats better ok here we go.The fac specks are just that back when every thing was the same.3/4 track,no picks,same springs and shock pressure.4" carbides.Now every thing is differant on your ride so you are going to have to ride it and see what is happening.If you want to go fast as it will than tigten the straps and leave the spring soft.This takes pressure off the front of the rails so the track will not slow down when it is roatating.There might be to mutch weight on the skis this way depending on your cardbides.If you run trails and drag race and like to pull the skies in the air over jumps than run a tight spring and limiters all the way out and you will have good traction and a suspenshion that will want to lift your front and give you light steering.Hope this helps bm
 
i thought that you should run tight limiters if you race that means you wouldnt get the ski lift, just the straight forward acceleration?? that way you dont waste any forward momentum going up?? i could be wrong just asking is all
 
bluemonster1 said:
I meant tightening the limiters,not the actual shock adjuster nut.If I pull the limiters up more,it will get the front shock to start compressing a bit and the spring on the shock will start to compress slightly.But if I am way under the factory specs,my front end will come up easily when I pin it.
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Ah OK, I gotcha!
 
It all depends in setup if you spin than you looze .If you have the picks to not spin than yes you dont want your front end to lift.But most sleds on the trail dont have chiesl picks so getting weight on the track is important.That is why the front end gets tyed down on the track.
 
All i am trying to say is if some one had the same sled as yours simmons skis dual carbides 6" fliped brackets kyb skocks same spring and settings ........move to the back long travel viper shocks same lenth limiters same spring settings same transfer rod settings same 11/4 track with no picks as you do useing this example than they might be able to tell you were the best place to set the limiters.But what you want to do with your sled and your weight diffance makes it realy hard for a exact answer.Take it out and ride it than come back and try something differant.Try to get the track as flat as possable for good traction.
 
My wife and I only for the party.She works night and sleeps days.Really can't go anywhere with that situation.I tightened the limiters up,got 50/50 on the transfer rods.Track seems to be sitting nice and flat on garage floor.This is my starting point.I don't want to raise the front end 2 feet in the air when I pin it with good traction.I am not running studs anymore,so setting up for my traction a tuning event.Of course with the snow we have now,there is no way to test yet until we get a good blast and the snow gets packed good.Snow will be to loose and wet in the beginning.I'll get it there.
 
Well went out and drove about 4 miles today around the property.Since I adjusted the limiters a bit,seems to get a better bite when turning.Mind you them 6" carbides have something to do with it.I can basically turn on a dime with these ski's now...awesome ..really great.Can't really get launch rpm's,but on a roll I pin it and the rpm's are staying at 8500 rpm which is what I am aiming for with the HC's setup.I need to get engagement rpm down at least to 4000 rpm.Right now it starts to engage around 4500 ish.
 
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