saskattakman
New member
well i went to install my new long travel shocks on my srx....i have the viper shocks and betheviper brackets....do i have to cut the top plastic on the bellypan where the mount goes.....it doesnt look like the brackets will line up with the holes unless i cut the plastic for the bracket and shock.....has anybody done this...maybe BTV will chime in on this.....any pics would be great
sorry, i thought i sent out all the directions on the last orders.
ill send you directions and yes you need to cut a small hole the shape of the template given. i did forget to send the strips of heat tape to cover the holes when done. let me know if you dont have any heat tape and ill send some out.
sorry to the other order as well, it has been a while since i made some up.
ill send you directions and yes you need to cut a small hole the shape of the template given. i did forget to send the strips of heat tape to cover the holes when done. let me know if you dont have any heat tape and ill send some out.
sorry to the other order as well, it has been a while since i made some up.
Rambunctious
New member
btv
how much are your brackets
I have run the rear viper shocks on my srx for 2 years, and want to install the fronts this year
also, how is the cornering. do I need an aftermarket stabilizer to reduce bodyroll?
tks
Ramb
how much are your brackets
I have run the rear viper shocks on my srx for 2 years, and want to install the fronts this year
also, how is the cornering. do I need an aftermarket stabilizer to reduce bodyroll?
tks
Ramb
Last edited:
As BetheViper said, yes you need to cut the belly pan. I did mine this past weekend and would have liked to try something before cutting... So perhaps you could try it.
I used a heat gun to bubble the belly pan to allow for additional clearence between the shock and belly pan. If you get the belly pan hot enough, it will become very plyable and I wished I had tried heating the pan and pushing the shock/bracket up into the belly pan. You would still need to cut holes into the belly pan to allow access to the shock bolts but if enough heat is applied, the belly pan will conform.
I ended up making two plastic covers in place of Scott's recommended heat tape by heating a precut piece of plastic from an old DeWalt tool box lid my cord-less drill came in.
I just heated the plastic piece and forced it over the bracket and shock just like a vacuum former would do (minus the vacuum). I had to heat the piece a few times to complete it but it turned out nice. I also heated the belly pan just below the point where the center cylinder pipe runs to allow for additional clearence.
I'll take some picks tonight and post them tomorrow. I'd also like to thank Scott for delivering as promised.
I used a heat gun to bubble the belly pan to allow for additional clearence between the shock and belly pan. If you get the belly pan hot enough, it will become very plyable and I wished I had tried heating the pan and pushing the shock/bracket up into the belly pan. You would still need to cut holes into the belly pan to allow access to the shock bolts but if enough heat is applied, the belly pan will conform.
I ended up making two plastic covers in place of Scott's recommended heat tape by heating a precut piece of plastic from an old DeWalt tool box lid my cord-less drill came in.
I just heated the plastic piece and forced it over the bracket and shock just like a vacuum former would do (minus the vacuum). I had to heat the piece a few times to complete it but it turned out nice. I also heated the belly pan just below the point where the center cylinder pipe runs to allow for additional clearence.
I'll take some picks tonight and post them tomorrow. I'd also like to thank Scott for delivering as promised.
I'm looking forward to seeing your photos.
marty f
New member
pics
i am also interested in pics from anyone
i am also interested in pics from anyone