"Prelude"
Jetting/intake
Conclusion jetting/intake
Question jetting
Clutching and use
Questions clutching
Drive belt.
"Prelude"
I bought a 2001 MM 700 this summer for a good price. I had it in for service last week and I finally had an opportunity to try it this weekend. I had the mechanic put on hauck headgasket, and take the reedstopper notch. I also had some remote fuel screw adjusters that he put in for me.
Jetting/intake
The reason I put the remote fuel screw adjusters in was that I was going to "tune out" the low end burble.. He did what he was asked about and gave me a tip too. He put in 47,5 pilots, replacing the stock 45's. He also turned the fuel screw to 1 turn out. He told me that those motors would "shoot" , and when I asked about if it would burble too, he nodded. The sulotion (spelling?), was to put in larger pilot jets and some would also put in reed spacers. I should also add to that that my elevation is 0-800 ft. Altitude will have an effect of which pilots to use.
"Conclusion"
As said so many times before, reedstoppers or reedspacers will help on the burble, but the new (to me anyway), is that larger pilots also will help.
Question: Is 141,3 on pto and center and 142,5 on mag way too small for my altitude and temps? -20 c and 0-800ft. Seems a little lean to me.
Clutching and use:
It seems like the sled came with factory stock cluching, which had not been updated for the alt/temps here. It still had 21/40 gearing on it. I haven't looked in the primary yet, but it seems like it has the stock spring in it and the secondary is stock. When accelerating, the engine power quickly overpowers the clutching, it seems like sled has 20 hp more than the clutching is made for. After about 300 ft, the revs are 9000 and I have to let off! I also use the sled for towing 200-600 lbs sleighs. You can see why I don't want to gear up to get the rpms down (will probably toast the primary due to exessive heat).
Questions:
1) Assuming the stock MM weights have the rivets needed for high altitude, will I get the rpms down to 8500 or so when putting the rivets needed for low altitude?
2) If the heaviest rivets won't get the rpms down, what are my options?
I don't want to gear up, and I don't want to use a steeper helix because I want to keep the clutches "cool". Are there some weights that I can use for powderriding AND towing like I do now?
I also bought a dayco ultimax 3, that is softer than the stock 8dn which I am
going to try out this winter to get more power to the ground and to keep the clutches cool.
Jetting/intake
Conclusion jetting/intake
Question jetting
Clutching and use
Questions clutching
Drive belt.
"Prelude"
I bought a 2001 MM 700 this summer for a good price. I had it in for service last week and I finally had an opportunity to try it this weekend. I had the mechanic put on hauck headgasket, and take the reedstopper notch. I also had some remote fuel screw adjusters that he put in for me.
Jetting/intake
The reason I put the remote fuel screw adjusters in was that I was going to "tune out" the low end burble.. He did what he was asked about and gave me a tip too. He put in 47,5 pilots, replacing the stock 45's. He also turned the fuel screw to 1 turn out. He told me that those motors would "shoot" , and when I asked about if it would burble too, he nodded. The sulotion (spelling?), was to put in larger pilot jets and some would also put in reed spacers. I should also add to that that my elevation is 0-800 ft. Altitude will have an effect of which pilots to use.
"Conclusion"
As said so many times before, reedstoppers or reedspacers will help on the burble, but the new (to me anyway), is that larger pilots also will help.
Question: Is 141,3 on pto and center and 142,5 on mag way too small for my altitude and temps? -20 c and 0-800ft. Seems a little lean to me.
Clutching and use:
It seems like the sled came with factory stock cluching, which had not been updated for the alt/temps here. It still had 21/40 gearing on it. I haven't looked in the primary yet, but it seems like it has the stock spring in it and the secondary is stock. When accelerating, the engine power quickly overpowers the clutching, it seems like sled has 20 hp more than the clutching is made for. After about 300 ft, the revs are 9000 and I have to let off! I also use the sled for towing 200-600 lbs sleighs. You can see why I don't want to gear up to get the rpms down (will probably toast the primary due to exessive heat).
Questions:
1) Assuming the stock MM weights have the rivets needed for high altitude, will I get the rpms down to 8500 or so when putting the rivets needed for low altitude?
2) If the heaviest rivets won't get the rpms down, what are my options?
I don't want to gear up, and I don't want to use a steeper helix because I want to keep the clutches "cool". Are there some weights that I can use for powderriding AND towing like I do now?
I also bought a dayco ultimax 3, that is softer than the stock 8dn which I am
going to try out this winter to get more power to the ground and to keep the clutches cool.
M-Max
New member
I use the Yamaha 8dn belt. I usually get 1 season of pure boondocking and mountain climbing from it.
I have tryed the ultimax 2 and 3. The most I have ever got was 1 full day of riding. Usually I burn one up with in 3 hours.
This hay have to do with cluth set up.
Currently I am running the below for 2500' to about 4500'
Aluminum Rivet in tip and 4.5 grams in the heel.
* Yel-Wht-Yel (45 pre / 2.5 rate)
* 60deg Secondary Pre-load
I have tryed the ultimax 2 and 3. The most I have ever got was 1 full day of riding. Usually I burn one up with in 3 hours.
This hay have to do with cluth set up.
Currently I am running the below for 2500' to about 4500'
Aluminum Rivet in tip and 4.5 grams in the heel.
* Yel-Wht-Yel (45 pre / 2.5 rate)
* 60deg Secondary Pre-load
Hm.. from what I understood, if a v belt wears like it is supposed to, it dusts, but doesn't burn up. A 60 degree twist on a mountain sled sounds a little low to me, but I'm no expert. Those substitute belts are softer and have a better grip, but when they sink to deep in the secondary, that's when the belts burn I think. I had mine at 60 but that was on a srx with hc's, and it would get deep in the secondary and ultimately lug on top end..
Did you try a tighter twist with those other belts?
Have you ever cracked the sheaves on that sled due to exessive heat? What mods do you have on it?
Did you try a tighter twist with those other belts?
Have you ever cracked the sheaves on that sled due to exessive heat? What mods do you have on it?
Last edited:
M-Max
New member
No I did not adjust because I used them as a cheap spare
ok, look at the additional question on my reply.
M-Max
New member
I have never had any clutch issues. There are just under 5000kms all mountain riding on my machine.
Mods are basic.
bender ceramic coated tripple pipes, atacc, mpi transfer staps, 5.5 rox riser
currently awaiting a hartman 151 conversion.
To prove its a great sled from a quality company, in 5000 kms all it has really needed is 1 set of hyfax.
Mods are basic.
bender ceramic coated tripple pipes, atacc, mpi transfer staps, 5.5 rox riser
currently awaiting a hartman 151 conversion.
To prove its a great sled from a quality company, in 5000 kms all it has really needed is 1 set of hyfax.
Newfoundlander
New member
I have a 2002 mountain max that I bought new I was not pleased with the factory setup I went through a couple of belts before 1000km it was hard on gas and constantly killed plugs. First off I tackled the jetting I am at sea level to 2000 ft and temperatures to -25 C The float heights were off so I set them to stock then I dropped the pilot to 40 and 1.5 turns on the air screw. I never killed a plug after and my gas mileage started to climb. After checking my plugs on midrange and top end they were still fouled I finally settled on 140 pto 138 for the other two and dropped my needles down half a clip. For the clutching I am using a 4.5 gram inner 3.6 gram outer and a pink-pink-pink primary spring the reason I changed the spring was I found the engagement too high for in deep snow I would either notch the belt or the track would flick over so fast that I would get stuck. I also installed reed spacers last year big difference. After the first 1500km I had this all done and I have over 7800km on it now with no problems I am on my second belt since 1500km changed it last year at 7000km but it still has lots of life in it yet just thought it was time to change it out. I have hauled firewood used it for hill climbing trail riding etc. and never had a problem. Gas mileage is excellent 240km + on a tank of gas even riding hard. I had reverse put on at the dealer when I bought the machine so i am not sure if the gearing has been changed with that or not. This year I have a set of bender triple pipes put on so the tuning starts again lol. 
Interresting to hear about the 40's. For me it's kind of weird that those don't make the sled run lean on the low end. But hey if it works, what's better than that? I will look at the spring chart after reading your post. Thanks. Just feel free to comment or ask if you want.
Newfoundlander
New member
My Father is running 35 pilots in his venture with 1 1/4 turns on the air screw dropped the needle one full clip position and 140,138,138 mains he has ran his for 5000km or so now no problems but I found the 40's perfect it got rid of the backfiring if you shut the sled off to quickly, no fouled plugs, and i found it didn't load up the plugs when trail riding. The pink-pink-pink primary has almost the same total force 129 vs 128 stock but the preload is lower this kept the shift the same but lowered the engagement rpm it was way better in the snow and i never have to buy belts anymore. For everyday riding work etc it was the perfect setup for me.
I run at altitude 0-3000 feet and temperature down to -25 degrees celcius and my riding is 90% boondocking.
The sled has reedspacers but nothing done with the head gasket.
I have run mine with 142,5 on pto side and 141,3 on middle and right cyl. Needle clip 1/2 down. Fuel screws 1,5 turns out. Cant remember the pilot size though.
Works Great and milage is 1,6-1,8 liters/10km and that is with lots of fun. When going into the really deep I hit 2,1 liters/10 km, but that is with A LOT of fun and a heavy thumb...
This winter I will have Benderpipes on. Also clutching according to TURKs tips. 
//Rob
The sled has reedspacers but nothing done with the head gasket.
I have run mine with 142,5 on pto side and 141,3 on middle and right cyl. Needle clip 1/2 down. Fuel screws 1,5 turns out. Cant remember the pilot size though.
Works Great and milage is 1,6-1,8 liters/10km and that is with lots of fun. When going into the really deep I hit 2,1 liters/10 km, but that is with A LOT of fun and a heavy thumb...
This winter I will have Benderpipes on.
Also clutching according to TURKs tips. //Rob
I wonder if you'll get enough cooling with pipes? The cooling system looks kind of minimalistic to me.. I guess you won't be hauling anything with that sled..
Newfoundlander
New member
I am not sure how much hotter the sled will run with pipes. The temperature light has never came on on my sled before with the rear mounted cooler on the mountain max it makes a huge difference even running on ice or idling mine has never once flashed the temp light. Hopefully with the pipes the same will be true.