moss
New member
I am working on the sled, new Track came. Have the chaincase apart, and took the bottom gear off, but need to know if I need to get the top one off too? Do I have to take the whole chaincase completely off, or just crack it, and take the bottom gear off?
moss
New member
I did read this article
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/Suspension/replacing_track.htm
Just want to make sure I have to take the chaincase right off. Also does anyone know the size of the Nut on the top gear?
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/Suspension/replacing_track.htm
Just want to make sure I have to take the chaincase right off. Also does anyone know the size of the Nut on the top gear?
daman
New member
Can't remember the the size but yea the whole case needs to come off.
xsivhp
Active member
The top nut is a LCW - Large Crescent Wrench. lol
moss
New member
xsivhp said:
LOL...tried that, but I am afraid to start stripping it, it doesn't want to budge, so instead of stripping I would prefer to go get a socket.
I figured I needed to take it off. I'll try the cresent again, its not reverse threaded is it?
No it's not reverse thread.
I put on a new track last season and yes I did have to remove the whole thing.
Take your cresent wrench put it on the nut tighten it (not too tight), then slide it off without loosening it and measure the gap. Then you will know what size it is.
I do think it is about 1 3/16....but not sure.
Good luck....
Mike
I put on a new track last season and yes I did have to remove the whole thing.
Take your cresent wrench put it on the nut tighten it (not too tight), then slide it off without loosening it and measure the gap. Then you will know what size it is.
I do think it is about 1 3/16....but not sure.
Good luck....
Mike
moss said:
Take a look at mrvipers thread darthvader in working log he had made a point on this subject with photos...
Easy way- get a 1 1/8" socket or 29mm metric,(1/2" drive), and put on the parking brake or hold the brake on and break it loose. Then remove the lower bolt (14mm head)on bottom sprocket, then remove chain and gears. Unbolt the 14mm headed chain case bolts, remove the 2 bolts for the brake caliper and move out of the way. Then grab ahold of the brake rotor, and the chaincase and slip it out off the shafts, (sometimes you have to pull and wiggle at the same time)you only have to pull the case out about halfway out to remove the driveshaft, be sure to take note of the brake rotor key in the jasckshaft, do not under any circumstance remove the parking brake assembly, youll fight for hours trying to reassemble it, been there done that, theres enuff room to leave it all intact and just slip the chaincase out enuff to get the driveshaft out, its very easy this way.
heres a pic of how far you need to slip it out, notice I left the brake caliper on because the rotor was nice and free , if it isnt youll need to remove it (caliper)and wiggle and pull like I described above.
heres a pic of how far you need to slip it out, notice I left the brake caliper on because the rotor was nice and free , if it isnt youll need to remove it (caliper)and wiggle and pull like I described above.
Attachments
Last edited:
moss
New member
mrviper700 said:
Thank you Sir, I will try this as soon as I get a 29mm socket!!
sxray
Member
glad to see i wasn't the only one to take the parking brake apart the first time i did a track change. what a pain in the *** getting it back together. lol.
horkn
New member
good tips guys!
looks like I will be dropping a taller lug track in my 97 venture.
check my thread out since I have had no replies. http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=42229
so swapping tracks is pretty easy on a proaction yami? it seems that the chain case is pretty easy to take off.
I have done track swaps/ driveshaft R&R on polaris' , and a skidoo, so hopefully this will not be too difficult.
does the reverse gearset add much difficulty compared to a non reverse proaction yami?
looks like I will be dropping a taller lug track in my 97 venture.
check my thread out since I have had no replies. http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=42229
so swapping tracks is pretty easy on a proaction yami? it seems that the chain case is pretty easy to take off.
I have done track swaps/ driveshaft R&R on polaris' , and a skidoo, so hopefully this will not be too difficult.
does the reverse gearset add much difficulty compared to a non reverse proaction yami?
daman
New member
How's it going ray? thought you died. lolsxray said:
NYsledneck
New member
sxray said:
That damn parking brake is such a pain in the arse i almost didnt have a parking brake anymore! I also fought with that thing for a good 20 minutes to get it all back together.
Will not make the mistake of taking it apart next time...lmao
moss
New member
mrviper700 said:
I also had to take the airbox off, and take the 2 bolts off that hold the bearing on the Clutch side, otherwise the chaincase would not move. (Couldn't turn the 2 set screw's on the bearing they where rusted)
Anyways its all back up and in, new track and new shock on. Machine sits higher, that shock was completely done, I could comress it by hand, and at the end you could feel where it felt rusted inside, or the valves where done.
New Ripsaw track looks pretty agressive. Excited to get it out on the snow and test it out. I still need to finish up the exhaust gaskets and put the exhaust back in, and I have to go pick up some chaincase Oil. Got the new Clutch springs and the clutches are back together and on the sled, so almost ready for the snow to start flying now.