rhoag
New member
Well, we got about 6-7 inches of snow on Saturday and I was very busy that day. When I finally got home at about 9PM I took my viper for a rip down the street (2 city blocks). As some of you know this 02 viper is new to me and I purchased a clutch kit from a member here. To make a long story short Sunday I had to leave for KC for 2 weeks. So now I'm in KC till the 15th and have a trip planned for the 20th. During my short rip down the street the thing was reving 9000 rpm's. Do you feel one rip on snow covered pavement is enough evaluation to change the clutching? The sled is not studded and has a 1 1/4 paddle track...so you would think I would be getting some hook-up in 6-7 inches of snow??? I don't know if there will be any snow left when I return to do better testing. Also with the 40/10 Heel clickers, if over reving where do you add the weight.... heel???? The secondary has a green spring wrapped at 70. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
redsnake3
New member
you add weight to the tip to bring down the top rpms. if the sled is stock then you will want to bring it down to 84-8500 rpms. going down a street with fresh powdery snowfall will usually rev a little higher than on a trail where there is actual traction.
nailsandrails
VIP Member
You'd need a complete run from bottom to top. If you happened to not get traction that will change your numbers greatly. Others may be able to help on here if you can describe your run better. From a dead stop? Was it 9,000 all the way? Pipes on sled? Was this on fresh snow or something that had a few passes on it?
Rambunctious
New member
you can also back off the secondary 10 degrees to get about 100 to 200 rpm drop ( with red) being green is stuffer, it may have more affect
easy change in about 4 minutes, on the trail if needed. bring the right 1/4" drive, extension, and socket in yoru pocket with you on the trail
that is how i dialed my setup on a weekend ride. ( same deal as you, no time to dial in, rushed to load up and head out, thinking the whole way up, is it gonna beat my buddy or not.....)
i found dropping the 200 rpm ( back into the 8500-8600 powerband I guess) did make a difference. this was on an srx
I think the vipers run a little higher rpm
others will post I'm sure
Ramb
easy change in about 4 minutes, on the trail if needed. bring the right 1/4" drive, extension, and socket in yoru pocket with you on the trail
that is how i dialed my setup on a weekend ride. ( same deal as you, no time to dial in, rushed to load up and head out, thinking the whole way up, is it gonna beat my buddy or not.....)
i found dropping the 200 rpm ( back into the 8500-8600 powerband I guess) did make a difference. this was on an srx
I think the vipers run a little higher rpm
others will post I'm sure
Ramb
Test on hardpack snow on a cold day. For best performance rpm,s should be about 200 rpm under peak hp slowly climbing & maxing out right at or 100 rpm over peak hp.
rhoag
New member
All,
Thanks for the input. I will hope we have snow when I return and try to get better testing before playing around. From what I have read the vipers like 8600-8700 RPM's so that will be my goal as Turk discribed. One last question. I didn't get any of the components (different washers and bolts etc...)to adjust these second gen 40/10's. Can I just use washers from the hardware and add them Or should I try to find a kit for tuning? Where might I purchase a kit for tuning these weights?
Thanks for the input. I will hope we have snow when I return and try to get better testing before playing around. From what I have read the vipers like 8600-8700 RPM's so that will be my goal as Turk discribed. One last question. I didn't get any of the components (different washers and bolts etc...)to adjust these second gen 40/10's. Can I just use washers from the hardware and add them Or should I try to find a kit for tuning? Where might I purchase a kit for tuning these weights?
Hardware store washers are fine as long as they are the same size or smaller total diameter then the hc washers.
mod-it
Member
Turk said:
That seems so funny to me since all my experience has always been mountain riding. We set our rpm's up to exceed peak about 100-200 so that when we hit deep powder and are pointed up hill the load put on the motor makes our rpm's drop DOWN into the peak. For example, my slp pipes peak is 8900. I see around 9100 rpm on the trail, but when in powder/hill climbing it is always at 8900 rpm when I look. Is this something that is affected by where the weight is put in the arm? I always try to only put whatever weight is needed in the tip simply because thats what I was taught to do. Or is it simply caused by the nature of the different terrain? I would guess this one is the reason because of the load when climbing versus running full out on a lake/trail?