BenderSRX
VIP Member
Hi Guys this is my first time using hell clickers and i have some questions, I bought a used kit from another member and it comes with the bolts and lock washers and little washers for the heel. I have included a pic of was i received.
Questions 1.What are the 3 little screw like things beside the arms? Do they screw down the heel to add more weight?
2. The member that sold me the kit said that he just had washers for the heel and in the picture you will notice one side of the washers have a flat side, which way should they point?
3. MrViper700 recommended this setup use 4-5 grams in the heel, nothing in middle hole and 5 grams tip weight. Do i weight the bolt and lock washer and washers to reach the 5 grams tip weight or just 5 grams in washers?
Thanks Guys
Questions 1.What are the 3 little screw like things beside the arms? Do they screw down the heel to add more weight?
2. The member that sold me the kit said that he just had washers for the heel and in the picture you will notice one side of the washers have a flat side, which way should they point?
3. MrViper700 recommended this setup use 4-5 grams in the heel, nothing in middle hole and 5 grams tip weight. Do i weight the bolt and lock washer and washers to reach the 5 grams tip weight or just 5 grams in washers?
Thanks Guys
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mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
yes, you count the weight of the bolt, washers till its 5 grams then install them in the tip hole, nothing in the middle hole then use 4-5 grams for the heel. there is no paticular way the washers go just put them on the bolt. You can go to the hardware store if you need more washers.
BTW_ the longer bolts are 4.0 grams each, the next longest ones are 3.3.grams each. The washers which fit the larger bolts are 1.0 gram each.
the smaller bolts for the heel are 2.3 grams each, the set screws are 1.2 grams each and the little washers for the heel are .5 grams each.
set your tip weight to 5.0, this is the long bolt and 1 washer, then keep adding up washers on the heel bolt till the engine begins to get sluggish on take off, this will get you close, the heel weight can be changed while the clutch and all is on the sled so you can keep playing with it, it will be your engagement speed and low speed response. Try for around 4000 engagement on snow.
BTW_ the longer bolts are 4.0 grams each, the next longest ones are 3.3.grams each. The washers which fit the larger bolts are 1.0 gram each.
the smaller bolts for the heel are 2.3 grams each, the set screws are 1.2 grams each and the little washers for the heel are .5 grams each.
set your tip weight to 5.0, this is the long bolt and 1 washer, then keep adding up washers on the heel bolt till the engine begins to get sluggish on take off, this will get you close, the heel weight can be changed while the clutch and all is on the sled so you can keep playing with it, it will be your engagement speed and low speed response. Try for around 4000 engagement on snow.
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Not to hijack, but will that work in a 2000 Mr. V? I've got a top speed problem, 108-110 is it. before I messed w/it, I could creep up to 120 (indicated). I had the sheaves trued, balanced, relieved fro the H/C's, and they machined a cooling cut out on the towers. The secondary has been cut so that it will pull more overdrive, balanced, Polaris silver/blue spring, and a Lightening Pro roller w/a micro bellmont 44-38 helix.
It pulls hard, but no top end.
It pulls hard, but no top end.
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
lucky7, your top speed problem is the roller secondary, you have to run a god awfull stiff rear spring to control the shift and on topend the secondary clutch is seeing a torq loss as its a torq sensing clutch, it begins to backshift and the front is trying to upshift, so they fight each other. What I would do is to use a smaller helix and then back off on the rear spring tension as the smaller helix will apply more side pressure to the belt WITHOUT having to use a big spring and this will help. remember the roller secondary will upshift faster from the lack of friction on ramps, so you can use alot smaller helixs and they will upshift fast, they also backshift alot faster again from the lack of friction and being a torq. sensing clutch react faster then a button secondary does.
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nailsandrails
VIP Member
Also - Buy a gram scale off of Ebay. They are cheap and will get you real numbers. You'll find the numbers provided by MRVIPER are close....but to get all three weighing the same you will need a scale.
Lucky7 - I am an amateur at tuning these weights, but I can tell you trying to dial in a roller is a heck of a lot harder that dialing in the button secondary. I had a hauck roller and finally gave up and went back to a button in the past. You'll also find more help on here from people running the stock button style.
Lucky7 - I am an amateur at tuning these weights, but I can tell you trying to dial in a roller is a heck of a lot harder that dialing in the button secondary. I had a hauck roller and finally gave up and went back to a button in the past. You'll also find more help on here from people running the stock button style.
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BenderSRX
VIP Member
That helps alot Don Thanks.
Snodust, I would but, they machined off the button stands.
nailsandrails
VIP Member
Ahh gotcha. I could never slow down the shift enough. Unfortunately I didn't have a number of springs and helix's to test with so I didn't get very far. With the season being so short I went to the button and got it dialed in on the first trip. I'm sure they guys on here can help you get yours under control. My exp. was a couple years ago.