carbs,high idle rpm,fuel screws

bluemonster1

bluemonster1

LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
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Location
Howden ,Manitoba,Canada
Got my carbs off the SRX tonight.My symptoms: hard to start.Today took 20 pulls.The SXR took only 8 pulls.The choke is working.Got 2001 SRX jetting in my sled.Idles at around 2500 rpm.Fuel screws were only about 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 turns.Last year had a slight bog at launch,that is with 02 jetting.So should I open up the fuel screws to about 2 turns and u think this would solve the idle problems,now with the 01 jetting setup.This is the only thing that has been changed since last season. Good news so far, the DCS is not coming on when I pin it to wot or at launch to wot.Glad that is solved.
 

Take some carb cleaner ( once you take out the pilots and jets and so on spray like crazy in all the holes. Make sure the cleaners is coming out the other end of what your spraying.
The carbs are kinda simple, put them back together to spec and see what happens.
LAST year mine was hard to start until I changed my stator.
I guess the true test is when I get back home and start the sled. Its been sitting for almost 2 months
 
Good luck then.I cleaned my carbs out good prior to this about 3 weeks ago,so that is good.Maybe because the fuel screws need to be turned out more,will help in starting which may give more fuel to the carbs .The fuel screws are basically for idle and first 1/4 of the throttle anyways,so that probably is the problem.Otherwise she winds up after that nonsense.
 
the fuel screws will help the idling issue, it should idle between 1500-1800rpm, not above there at 2500rpm, thats too high. I would set the fuel screws so they are at 1.5-1.75 turns out, if you have aggressive clutching they work the best here. this will prevent a bog when you smash the gas from a stop. I would also look at your enrichner settings(choke), this primarly determines your cold starting ability. Adjust the choke till you only have 1/8th inch freeplay in the cable, meaning: you can grasp the lever and move it up and out about 1/8th inch WITHOUT moving the linkage, you also need to make sure you place the choke in the 2nd posistion, all the way up, theres actually 2 differnt detents, half choke will result in hard starting, you have to flip it all the up which is actually almost over backwards on a cold start, then once it lights off quickly drop it to half, then I just pump the lever till it will idle and leave it warm up on its own, this is where the richer fuel screw settings will aid you.
 
SRX7 said:
I guess the true test is when I get back home and start the sled. Its been sitting for almost 2 months
Click to expand...

Hey can you wait for me before you do this? I want to see how my future sled is started after a long sit. Want to get to know her (or him?) as soon as I can. :)
 
That idle is to too high there blue,crank your pilots(fuel)screws out some and go from there, mine idle's @ a nice 1700ish.

check your specs,choke, i thought you had this stuff ready to go!!!!! lol
 
i found sleds with out a primer leave the key off and slowly (blub........blub........blub) pull it about 3 times then key on and it should start right up on the next pull.....
 
Got fuel screws out 1 3/4 now and she will idle down,takes a few seconds,but she will come down now to about 1800 rpm.I have free play in my choke also.Will check it for the 1/8 slack you mentioned.

daman..have you finished painting your bathroom yet.....lol
daman.. do you have snow yet..I do...lol
 
A tough guy and a wise guy yet...ah...good.Better take your sleds up to the Arctic before all the ice melts.50% gone in 4 years.Did you hear that by 2012 there will be no more ice in the Arctic.Heard that it will start forming ice again somewhere over your house.:rofl: :rofl: Have a drink on me.
 
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