nitris223
New member
Reed stopper notch (more Pictures)
I wanted to do the reed notch tonight and according to the tech pages it said to grind 24mm wide x taper to 18mm and 4 mm deep. When I measured the space between the two slot there was only 19mm of material there. This would only leave me 1/2 mm of steel for support. I thought this would weaken the reed stopper to much.
I was thinking of making the notch 22x16x4. Would this still be enough to get a uninterupted flow . I attached a picture of someone else reed that he had notched. This would be close to what I was thinking. Can the be square in the corners or should the be rounded like in the picture.
I wanted to do the reed notch tonight and according to the tech pages it said to grind 24mm wide x taper to 18mm and 4 mm deep. When I measured the space between the two slot there was only 19mm of material there. This would only leave me 1/2 mm of steel for support. I thought this would weaken the reed stopper to much.
I was thinking of making the notch 22x16x4. Would this still be enough to get a uninterupted flow . I attached a picture of someone else reed that he had notched. This would be close to what I was thinking. Can the be square in the corners or should the be rounded like in the picture.
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Last edited:
round will have a less chance of cracking than a sharp edge
nitris223
New member
Here is a picture of me reed stopper notch after I was done. I guess they are a little more than the above picture. Do you think I went to far. There is about 1.4 mm of metal left on the thinest one. They are in order of pto, center, mag. I don't know why I but I went to far to the right on each one.
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boondoctor
New member
The first and third will probally crack, i did the notch a couple years ago and did not have enough radius in the corners and they cracked. Yours dont appear to have much material left in the corners, and the corners appear to be quite square. Just my experience.
nitris223
New member
Thats what I was scared someone was going to say. Well off to Yamaha tomorrow for more parts. I guess that is how you learn. The specs in the ty tech pages must be for different reed stoppers.
nitris223
New member
Are the reed stopper plate itself the same size on a Viper and SXR. I read the cages were a little wider on the Viper. Just wondering if the plates are the same size or different.
boondoctor
New member
I think the holes for the screws do not line up on the plates, as the srx and viper reeds are larger.
nitris223
New member
Hey Boondoctor can ya do me a favor and call your local Yamaha dealer and get a price on the reed stoppers. I don't know how much more of this raping I can take from the dealer here. Ronnies website on the net list the reed stopper at $4.02 USD and my dealer is $11.87 CDN . It doesn't even compute at 1.5 times the exchange rate any more. They just tripple the USD price. I don't know if all dealer are the same in Canada or not. If they are it's time for Yamaha to step up to the plate and start getting the prices adjusted. This is just flat out in your face price gouging. I am going to call the dealer in Regina today and see what his price is.
boondoctor
New member
Ya, thats what i paid and i also bought oem reeds too, cant remember actual price for everything but my *** still hurts. It was the middle of the season and i couldnt wait for the shipping from the states.Yamaha Canada hits us hard on parts.
moss
New member
Yah I have found my local dealers are typically at least 50% more, depending on the parts sometimes more.nitris223 said:
Its high time they do something, but probably will never.......
Its a toss up really, pay the shipping costs (which can be retarded as well, I paid 30 bones shipping for a bag of nuts and bolts!!) or buy it locally, and have it right away. Its typically almost equal price after shipping and duties are tacked on top anyways.
nitris223
New member
I now what you guys mean about shipping that's starting to get out of hand also. I will bite the bullet here one last time but I think I will order a set from ronnie's . I am just replacing the tops because of the screw up in the reed stopper notch. I don't know how long they last , there is only 3500 km's on the wife's sled. I should be safe just doing the top for now.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
As someone stated they have to have radius in the corner or they may crack.
nitris223
New member
There is a radius there but not a bunch. I rounded them a little with my dremel tool and a carbide dental bit. I just didn't have the material left to make the radius larger.
I have three on order and maybe try this again or just get reed spacers. The wife will probably never notice the difference because she doesn't even think it has any low speed burble now. I can hear and feel it when I ride it. She could live with it but not me. It just bugs me knowing that I can tune it out one way or another but I would rather the free way first. This time I will go less. I figure if there is some cut out it is better than none.
I have three on order and maybe try this again or just get reed spacers. The wife will probably never notice the difference because she doesn't even think it has any low speed burble now. I can hear and feel it when I ride it. She could live with it but not me. It just bugs me knowing that I can tune it out one way or another but I would rather the free way first. This time I will go less. I figure if there is some cut out it is better than none.
nitris223
New member
Finally got the Reed Stoppers from the Dealer. I swear they had to get made or came by Camel. Took almost 2 weeks. Anyways I was a little gun shy at first but I went ahead and did the notch again but made dam sure it was less then my first attemp. Lots of radius and meat left in the corners. The new one's are stainless so I guess I should order new one's for the bottom even though there is only 4000 kms on them.
When I fired it up I could tell there was a difference right away. It was idling a little higher so then it was setting the slack in the throttle cable and the idle screw that I had to get right or the TPS switch would kick in. Mind you this was done in a warm garage . I will need to fine tune the idle outside in running temps. Wife probably won't notice the difference but I will.
When I fired it up I could tell there was a difference right away. It was idling a little higher so then it was setting the slack in the throttle cable and the idle screw that I had to get right or the TPS switch would kick in. Mind you this was done in a warm garage . I will need to fine tune the idle outside in running temps. Wife probably won't notice the difference but I will.