I just rebuild the motor (1998 Yamaha SRX 700) and was following the manual on coolant air bleeding. The manual states that first I have to bleed the air out of the rear of the sled (bleed bolt in the heat exchanger under the seat), than bleed the front by removing the bolt to which I point with my screw driver in the picture. When I removed the back bolt everything went as described in the manual air came out than the coolant did. When I removed the front bolt no coolant/air came out. I tried to switch the carb coolant valve to ON or OFF position no result (the valve moves freely). I warmed the engine up (coolant was circulating the rear heat exchanger was getting worm), but still nothing came out of the front bleeding screw. When I disconected the coolant delivery hose underneath the valve the coolant started coming out of the hose. Can anyone tell me what might be the problem and how critical is it. Thank you.
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Toy Collector
New member
There is a bolt underneath that you have to loosen first, then your coolant will flow out of the bleed screw.
I unscrewed the bottom bolt but the coolant still didn’t run. The only time I was able to get the coolant to bleed is when I actually pulled the valve out of the rail a little bit, that’s when the coolant started to flush out of the bottom hole, nothing came out of the top. Any other suggestions?
Toy Collector
New member
Just loosen the bottom screw (don't remove it, then pull valve out a bit & coolant/air should come out at bleed screw.
If I just loosen the bottom bolt the valve does not come out at all. I loosent the bolt manuvered the valve but didn't get any flow. By the way the valve is very hard to tern I have to use players (bottom bolt is not overtighten) how is it on your machine?
Toy Collector
New member
Mine is hard to turn as well. If all your heat exchangers are getting warm, you should be good to go!
daman
New member
you shouldn't need to worry about that bleed screw,i've bleed mine twice
now and never used it...
now and never used it...
with a srx, on the thermostat there is a small relief hole, so any air trapped on the engine side of the thermostat can easily escape into the overflow bottle, so in essence all you need to do is simply start up the sled and then bleed the rear tunnel cooler on top, the air will be pushed to the rear cooler and a couple times and its done, they made it pretty simple with the bypass hole in the thermostat, this is why the thermostat must be installed correctly into the housing so the hole lines up with the relief slot.
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