bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Could use more snow,but there is enough to go riding.Man it is dangerous out there yet.Nailed a large rock off the floodway where there is some construction going on.They dumped around 20 truck load of rocks and boulders.I guess some of the smaller and more rounder ones rolled down to the level ground.Was opening it up at about 100 mph and heard a smack under the sled.Everything is ok on sled,rock was about 1 foot plus in size and just went under my bellypan,lucking a have a skid plate under the belly pan.There are no marks,rock just rolled a bit.And another along the ditch incident,nailed frozen clump of mud and grass with my right ski,and broke a piece apart(dirt that is,not the ski).Was a nice click/smacking sound there to.Checked the ski..it is fine.Front end is good,nothing bent out of shape.Bad time of year to be opening it up yet,need about another foot of good snow for a base to be on the safe side.
Traction is still not perfect out there.In some places where it hooked up,that SRX just pulled me back in the seat...awesome.Put gray spring in the clutch with the HC's and added another washer to tip which makes it 6 grams.With this spring my engagement dropped to near 4000 and the wide open was around 8600ish.Yesturday with red spring engagement was about 4400 and wide open was 8900-9000.A little better but not dead on yet.I can,t remove the heel screws from the HC's because the Allan heads are spun out with the Allan wrench.What can I do here? I wanted to add more washers to the heel.I am at pretty well maximum on the tip for weight because of the spider.
I can pu some other SS bolts for the heel I guess,I'll look around.Can get the others off with a vice grip if I have to,and wreck a few washers at the same time.
The rear wheel that I fixed yesterday is holding up.The rubber came off the alum rear wheel,just used epoxy to bond it back on,waited 16 hours for a good cure and holding.Got one bad wheel out of four new ones,factory bond was barely not there on that one wheel.
The DCS light just came on once today when I pinned it from a standstill,other times no problem..so I am happy.Does not come one when I am wot and climbing like it did last year.
Traction is still not perfect out there.In some places where it hooked up,that SRX just pulled me back in the seat...awesome.Put gray spring in the clutch with the HC's and added another washer to tip which makes it 6 grams.With this spring my engagement dropped to near 4000 and the wide open was around 8600ish.Yesturday with red spring engagement was about 4400 and wide open was 8900-9000.A little better but not dead on yet.I can,t remove the heel screws from the HC's because the Allan heads are spun out with the Allan wrench.What can I do here? I wanted to add more washers to the heel.I am at pretty well maximum on the tip for weight because of the spider.
I can pu some other SS bolts for the heel I guess,I'll look around.Can get the others off with a vice grip if I have to,and wreck a few washers at the same time.
The rear wheel that I fixed yesterday is holding up.The rubber came off the alum rear wheel,just used epoxy to bond it back on,waited 16 hours for a good cure and holding.Got one bad wheel out of four new ones,factory bond was barely not there on that one wheel.
The DCS light just came on once today when I pinned it from a standstill,other times no problem..so I am happy.Does not come one when I am wot and climbing like it did last year.
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bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Went for a second run on the SRX.Now that I know nothing is breaking on me and the engine sounds reliable,I am starting to give it a little more action .Hitting the deeper powder and pinning it and watching my rpm's.Doing some long runs rolling and at standstill.With the gray spring in,5.3 heel and 6 tip,secondary at 80 on 50/38 helix,launches at 8500-8600 and stays there at wot.Need to place more weight on heel,but 2 bolts have stripped heads and I can't get them off.Suggestions!!!!Maxxed out on the tip also.But when it hooks up,can feel that motor pulling..feels great.Need more snow yet.
nailsandrails
VIP Member
You should be able to use vice grips to get the heel bolts off. You may want to go to the hardware and get some allen head bolts to use instead. It's nice to use the same ones as the allen on the larger bolts for the center and tip weights.
I didn't think anyone used the grey spring. You'll probably get more help on here using the red.
Now that I think of it, I have ran almost your exact setup. I had 5.9g in heel and 4.3 in tip, but also put 2.5g in the center. I used the shortest bolt and cut some of the threads off of the end. Basically just enough threads to be just shy of flush on the backside. This was with the red spring.
I didn't think anyone used the grey spring. You'll probably get more help on here using the red.
Now that I think of it, I have ran almost your exact setup. I had 5.9g in heel and 4.3 in tip, but also put 2.5g in the center. I used the shortest bolt and cut some of the threads off of the end. Basically just enough threads to be just shy of flush on the backside. This was with the red spring.
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hannibal
New member
Went for a ride today as well, put on 120 miles. Went from the 59er to Beausejour, to Seddon's Corner for lunch, to Lac Du Bonnet, down to Libau, and back to the 59er. Ditches were better than the trails which was disappointing, definitely need some more snow. Another 6-8 inches and the groomers will hopefully be out..... Must of seen 30 sleds out today, call us crazy or hard core sledders, it was still a lot of fun!
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Snowdust..I used the gray spring because it drops the engagement down to about 4000 rpm/With the red spring I was at about 4400.Until I can solve the removal of them heel bolts ,I will be staying with gray.So you say you put some weight in the middle hole also.What are you launching at and your wot rpm.Lot of guys put nothing in the middle.But if you can't go bigger on tip,guess there is no choice.
BTW-there is no differance in the engagement speeds between the red and gray springs, the red spring is 230/360, the gray spring is 230/330, the only differance is the shift spped, the gray upshifts slightly faster then the red but you cant run as much weight in the arms with the gray spring.
I went and reread your post, you also added a washer to the arms, thats why you think it dropped your engagement speed but anytime you add weight to the arms it will effect engagement speed to some point, the heel weight has the most dramatic effect. You also have no where near as much tip weight as you could use, you can also stick the bolt in the tip backwards and use a nut and washer on the hollow side and it will clear the spider, this is how you can get up to 8 grams in the tip, theres lots of ways to add weight, it just comes down to what sled, engine and your set up.
this is the heel clicker spring specs:
red-230/360
gray-230/330
whits-170/300
blue-190/300
your first number is your preload, the second number is your shift load.
this is the heel clicker spring specs:
red-230/360
gray-230/330
whits-170/300
blue-190/300
your first number is your preload, the second number is your shift load.
nailsandrails
VIP Member
That set-up ran 8300 the entire way on a 99 SRX. It should be very close to 8500 on a 00 and newer. I was using a 50-40 dalton at that time.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Don,I read in the HC manual or on there web site if you wanted to lower engagement,could try the gray spring.But you probably know better then them.I will try that reverse the bolt and add a nut and washer trick on the tip.My only concern is I really have to put more weight on the heel.Got the 2.3 bolt and seven washers and still doesn't drop engagement enough on it's own with the red spring.I have to get the 2 bolts off where the head is stripped with vise grips and go look for more bolts for the heel.Will try to find SS ones at Home Depot.Hope I can find ones with allan heads.Should I find longer ones or is it only good to stick to 1/2 threaded ones.Think I have 5.3 grams total in heel now.So maybe I'll try and boost the tip to 7 grams first and see what happens with engagement.I need also to get launch at 8100 -8200 rpm's also and climb to 8500.Now snow is a little to soft and loose right now,so doubt I will gets things correct until we get a major drop of snow and packed to.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Another good thing so far is the DCS.Being as cold as it was today and launching to wot throttle,the light only flashed one time.Tried many launches from a standstill to 90-100 mph and no light issues.Last year was the opposite.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Oh by the way Don...you said that I could take the tip bolt reverse it and add a washer with locknut and it will still clear the pocket.Are you talking about the longer bolt in this case.I guess there are different ways to make it work.Put a washer on the bolt..slide bolt thru the flat side,then add another washer and nut on the recessed side, as an example.This is probably good if someone needs more then 7 grams tip.Just concerned if the threads will hit the pocket at all.I'll pu some nuts and experiment on it.
you want a tip that will most likely put you about spot on rpm wise and lose some engagement rpm?
Use 15mm rollers, lowers engagement speed and shift rpm! will make the weight act heavier and apply more pressure. more heel weight will also LOWER your engagement speed, with either the gray or red spring. I would simply make a slot in the top of the stripped out screw with a die grinder then simply remove the stripped out screw with a flat blade screwdriver, vise grips will be ok, but are hard to get a bite on a button head bolt most of the time.
Also, I would play with your secondary spring tension once you get the front clutch set up, 80 degrees would be good for tight trail riding, deep wet snow, but will hold the sled back quite a bit on topend for groomed trails, field running, road riding, dryer snow,etc. Its a personal prefernce kinda thing, if your a big person youll need more then a smaller guy. The more pretension, the more backshift and less topend, the opposite is the other way.
Use 15mm rollers, lowers engagement speed and shift rpm! will make the weight act heavier and apply more pressure. more heel weight will also LOWER your engagement speed, with either the gray or red spring. I would simply make a slot in the top of the stripped out screw with a die grinder then simply remove the stripped out screw with a flat blade screwdriver, vise grips will be ok, but are hard to get a bite on a button head bolt most of the time.
Also, I would play with your secondary spring tension once you get the front clutch set up, 80 degrees would be good for tight trail riding, deep wet snow, but will hold the sled back quite a bit on topend for groomed trails, field running, road riding, dryer snow,etc. Its a personal prefernce kinda thing, if your a big person youll need more then a smaller guy. The more pretension, the more backshift and less topend, the opposite is the other way.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Boy am I a dummy.Great idea with slotting out the bolt heads for a slotted screwdriver.I'll give it a try with my dremel.I'll go back to my red spring for sure and perhaps will do a 70 wrap in the secondary.My belt is in great shape,fairly new,but bought 4 new ones(all 8DN),just have to break them in.Also I am using 14.5 mm rollers at this moment,not the 15.6mm.If I have to put more weight in the heel,I'll have to find 15mm long bolts then...cause with the 12mm bolts there won't be much thread left to screw in to be on the safe side.I will play around and test till it is basically spot on.Thanks Don.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Got them heel bolts out with vise grip actually.Now I went to get new heel bolts with heads.Got 3 types.Two of them are SS and one steel.One type is a regular socket head bolt ,one is with a Philips head and the steel one is allan head same size allan head as the tip bolts.Does it really mater which ones,as long as I use loctite.I have them in 2 lengths,that way I can gain more weight and have them implanted good in the threads if I put 7 washers on them.Also got steel nut for the bolts that go in the tip.If I put the long bolt thru the flat side with a lock washer and nut on the recessed side,it will clear the spider for sure.That combo would give me around 8 grams.If I take out the washer,then I would have around 7 grams.I would just make sure I loctite the nut.
Attachments
A trick I learned from getting stripped allen screws out is to try a torx wrench...It sometimes works.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
With the red spring I am going to try try setup with HC's.Got 8 grams tip and 7 grams heel for a total weight with arm at 66 grams.Prior to this I had 62 gram total.Was over reving and engagement was about 400 over.This should help me...we'll see.TEST>>>TEST>>>>AND MORE TESTING=UNTIL IT IS RIGHT.
daman
New member
should have just left 'er stock set up that works, and ride instead of wrenching. lolbluemonster1 said:
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Will try ther Hc's above ^ with 8 grams tip and 7 grams heel with the red spring at 80 wrap and see what develops.I can downscale from there a gram less each.Just need engagement to be a true 4000 to really bite the belt and not overly spin the track like crazy.Sure is a lot easier then drilling and banging in rivets.
daman
New member
Get anymore snow blue?????