Dyno Numbers Bender 780 Viper

full tilt viper

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Joined
Dec 1, 2004
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57
Location
Southern Ontario
Just picked my sled up from Iantomassi racing in Bowmanville Ont. They dynoed my bender 780. It's a Bikeman Kit, Mega Power Heads, Delta #3's, ported. It made 166.4 BHP @ 8600 Rpm.Peak torque 102.1 @ 8400.Hp went 8400-163.4,8500-165.2,8600-166.4,8700-165.0,8800-163.9,8900-161.9,8898-155.8. Torque 8300-100.6,8400-102.1,8500-102.0,8600-101.5,,8700-99.5,8800-97.7,8900-95.4,8998-90.3. Bikeman claimes 170 hp with bored carbs, just hav'nt got that far. Overall happy with these numbers.
 
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hmm really thinking about this for next year just with either hauck 800 or MR700's kit.... keep us posted how ya like it on the trails, im gonna shoot for mid 160s hopefully, i still want it to be trailable

Iantomosi is only a hop skip and jump from me
 
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dyno

Running Bender VIP's. Running heel clickers, red spring 6 grms heel , 6 grms tip, RR secondary 41\37 , silver spring @80. If i run it at 70 the rpms drop off 150 top end. Wind it to 80 stayes ar 8650. Out of the hole jumps to 8600 and stayes there . Would like to see it come in at 8400 and climb to 8650. Any ideas. The above combo gives me amazing backshift and the power is right there.When i bought the motor bikeman recomended 8bu10's and haulk L helix 45\39. It just does'nt have the snap that the clickers and the roller give you. I think i may have lost some top end though!
 
full tilt:

bender never made a 780??
srx & viper 835 only. bender 835 with trail porting & stock carbs, stock head & compression & v-force 2 reeds - 178 hp. add case porting & 38mm carbs - 190+ hp. add high compression - 200 hp.

bob
 
where your torque is close to your hp peak you might not be able to creep the tach as much as you would like turk would know better i would try straight line pin kit to change to a cat or polaris weight these work awesome as long as you dont mind an engagment rpm between 3000 t0 4500 its runs a more consistant shift pattern gear it down and shift it hard there is no sense of using a variable unless you gear down to use the hole helix that way you can turn more weight
 
full tilt:

sounds to me that your clutching is about where it should be. the RR secondary needs more spring than a button - & you will not loose top end. if you use a recall tach you will see that over a longer distance the needle will creep up due to putting more heat in the pipes. get ahold of a gps or radar gun & mark off a set distance & start testing. you will learn quick the best setup for your application.

bob
 


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