Hey guys, just bought my SRX700 last Saturday and when I got her home was down to one cylinder. Read the advice here and cleaned the carbs. I ensured the pilot was clear and could see daylight. I sprayed carb cleaner down the pilot hole and air screw watching it blast out the holes, followed by compressed air to clean it good.
I started it last night and initially it only would run on the center hole like before...eventually the other two kicked in. The mag side seems fine now, and it's running solid on two. But, I'm still having issues with the pto side cylinder. It's running, but seems erratic or intermittent.
At first I couldn't tell if all three were running so I started pulling the plugs and after a few tries could tell that the mag side cylinder was firing as the idle would drop if I pulled the wire. Next I did the same with the pto side and for once it seemed to run strong.
However, once I attempted to drive it down the road I could tell I didn't have the power I should, and the pto side pipe is merely warm. I'm thinking I have an ignition problem there, or possibly clogged the primary again already. I cleaned the bowls surgically clean!
My compression is about 135 on all three holes, sled has 1600 miles on it. Supposedly was perfect when it was put away...but I found a good deal of mouse turds under the airbox, yet I can't find any chewed wires.
One thing I thought odd, was even when it was idling with what sounds like a miss, if I moved the plug wire off the pto side it wouldn't necessarily run worse, but as soon as I got the plug wire near the plug, not even seated, the engine would blip, almost like it picked up a spark so I'm assuming it arc'd and fired...but then it seems like it runs worse once I seated the spark plug wire on the plug itself.
I'm not much of an electrical person...is this indicative of a bad plug wire?
The other thing I noticed that might help is that when taking it on the first ride down my road when it went to one cylinder, I'd hit a bump or two and it felt like I'd get a brief power boost, maybe gaining that pto side cylinder then dying off again almost immediately.
Any thoughts?
I'm so upset at myself for buying this thing, help me figure it out! My buyer's remorse is almost too much to bear!
I started it last night and initially it only would run on the center hole like before...eventually the other two kicked in. The mag side seems fine now, and it's running solid on two. But, I'm still having issues with the pto side cylinder. It's running, but seems erratic or intermittent.
At first I couldn't tell if all three were running so I started pulling the plugs and after a few tries could tell that the mag side cylinder was firing as the idle would drop if I pulled the wire. Next I did the same with the pto side and for once it seemed to run strong.
However, once I attempted to drive it down the road I could tell I didn't have the power I should, and the pto side pipe is merely warm. I'm thinking I have an ignition problem there, or possibly clogged the primary again already. I cleaned the bowls surgically clean!
My compression is about 135 on all three holes, sled has 1600 miles on it. Supposedly was perfect when it was put away...but I found a good deal of mouse turds under the airbox, yet I can't find any chewed wires.
One thing I thought odd, was even when it was idling with what sounds like a miss, if I moved the plug wire off the pto side it wouldn't necessarily run worse, but as soon as I got the plug wire near the plug, not even seated, the engine would blip, almost like it picked up a spark so I'm assuming it arc'd and fired...but then it seems like it runs worse once I seated the spark plug wire on the plug itself.
I'm not much of an electrical person...is this indicative of a bad plug wire?
The other thing I noticed that might help is that when taking it on the first ride down my road when it went to one cylinder, I'd hit a bump or two and it felt like I'd get a brief power boost, maybe gaining that pto side cylinder then dying off again almost immediately.
Any thoughts?
I'm so upset at myself for buying this thing, help me figure it out! My buyer's remorse is almost too much to bear!
I should add that there is spark if I just set the plug in the wire and let it sit on the cylinder head.
9801srx
Member
i would first try a new spark plug , if that makes no difference try switching two plug caps around to see if the problem is in the plug cap . if you have a meter the plug cap resistance should be about 5000 ohms.
daman
New member
Using new plugs i'm sure? plug boots good?
Yep, brand new plugs, boots 'appear' to be good, no cracks or tears, the metal retaining clip looks in place, etc. (inside the boot that attaches to plug).
Plug is wet when I remove it.
Plug is wet when I remove it.
bluehammer
New member
Any mice in the pipes?
daman
New member
Did you check for the famous srx wire harness rub through under the motor?
bluehammer
New member
Any mice in the pipes? Just a thought. Could be that the bottom end is loaded with fuel. Bad fuel from last year? Pilots could have plugged again. Choke plunger stuck.
I haven't checked if there was a mouse in the pipe, it has a dynoport silencer. I will remove them tonight and check.
If the bottom end is loaded with fuel, how does one get it cleaned out? Is that why it took awhile for the mag side cylinder to fire up...did it have to clean that out?
I haven't checked the harness underneath.....what harness should I be looking for, and what would it be rubbing on so I can try to figure out which one to look at? Also, what method works best to inspect it, is there any tricks?
Half a tank of gas from last year, topped it off with fresh 92 and a can of STP fuel treatment....they were out of seafoam.
Choke not stuck.
If the bottom end is loaded with fuel, how does one get it cleaned out? Is that why it took awhile for the mag side cylinder to fire up...did it have to clean that out?
I haven't checked the harness underneath.....what harness should I be looking for, and what would it be rubbing on so I can try to figure out which one to look at? Also, what method works best to inspect it, is there any tricks?
Half a tank of gas from last year, topped it off with fresh 92 and a can of STP fuel treatment....they were out of seafoam.
Choke not stuck.
when you move the boot close to the plug you make the plug fire even if its fouled, it gets more juice that way, the coil builds up dwell longer, the spark longer and its more powerfull when released from the coil. The bottomend of the engine is flooded in that cylinder, once theres a gas puddle in the case and in the pipe you wont get it to run again till its cleared out, youll have to remove the pipe and clean it out with starting fluid and compressed air(dont use starting fluid on the case, it will remove all the oil from the main bearings!).
On the case its easier to remove the carb rack and tilt them off the engine, remover the reedblock, then put the piston at top dead center, placing a rag over the inlet insert a compressed air blow gun and blow out the fuel in the crankcase, the rag will protect it from blowing all over your face/eyes, etc. Once you do this reinstall all the parts and it will run correctly. See a 2 stroke breathes in return pulses from the pipe, so once the case and pipe have fuel in them , it keeps returning a very rich mixture with almost no air, no matter if the plug is new its like running with a extra choke on and until the fuel is cleaned out, it will be so rich it wont run on that cylinder.
The comment on the bump thing is the only thing that makes me suspect the wiring harness under the engine, however does the tach and lights do goofy things when you hit these bumps?
On the case its easier to remove the carb rack and tilt them off the engine, remover the reedblock, then put the piston at top dead center, placing a rag over the inlet insert a compressed air blow gun and blow out the fuel in the crankcase, the rag will protect it from blowing all over your face/eyes, etc. Once you do this reinstall all the parts and it will run correctly. See a 2 stroke breathes in return pulses from the pipe, so once the case and pipe have fuel in them , it keeps returning a very rich mixture with almost no air, no matter if the plug is new its like running with a extra choke on and until the fuel is cleaned out, it will be so rich it wont run on that cylinder.
The comment on the bump thing is the only thing that makes me suspect the wiring harness under the engine, however does the tach and lights do goofy things when you hit these bumps?
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The tach and lights had no noticable change, so maybe it was just a fluke with the bumps.
So you think the coil is okay and the plug boot? I figured there was something along the lines of more dwell and a stronger spark, that's why I was suspecting a weak coil or poor plug boot...that makes sense, thanks!
I would totally buy that the case is full, especially since the first time I got it home on Saturday, I had the key 'off', not on, and pulled on that pig forever with the choke on until I figured it out! Also, since it wasn't exactly running perfect when I got it, I assume the seller and previously interested buyers probably contributed to flooding it as well.
I'm not sure I follow your method of cleaning out the pipe, what is the starting fluid's purpose?
So you think the coil is okay and the plug boot? I figured there was something along the lines of more dwell and a stronger spark, that's why I was suspecting a weak coil or poor plug boot...that makes sense, thanks!
I would totally buy that the case is full, especially since the first time I got it home on Saturday, I had the key 'off', not on, and pulled on that pig forever with the choke on until I figured it out! Also, since it wasn't exactly running perfect when I got it, I assume the seller and previously interested buyers probably contributed to flooding it as well.
I'm not sure I follow your method of cleaning out the pipe, what is the starting fluid's purpose?
SRX7
New member
Will the engine start at this point?
If it will and you know what plug or cyl is not running correctly take a blow torch heat that plug red hot ( or white LOL ) and quickly put the plug back in, don't use the chock if you think its flooded and hold the throttle wide open and pull or with out wide open throttle first your choice. That red hot plug will light up any gas in there and hopefully start firing and run. Put the sled on a jack stand so you can rev it a little to keep it running and get it good and hot.
If it will and you know what plug or cyl is not running correctly take a blow torch heat that plug red hot ( or white LOL ) and quickly put the plug back in, don't use the chock if you think its flooded and hold the throttle wide open and pull or with out wide open throttle first your choice. That red hot plug will light up any gas in there and hopefully start firing and run. Put the sled on a jack stand so you can rev it a little to keep it running and get it good and hot.
Yes, it will start right up and run on the two. I don't have anyone to help, so guess I can hook it up to my shop hoist and try that if all else fails.
I think I'll take it apart though, I don't want to risk anything and I have the time to take it apart. I would feel better looking at the Primary jet again just to be sure.
Also, I did notice a good deal of blow back into the airbox on the two good cylinders that were running, is that normal? Is the crankcase open to all three cylinders, or do the crank bearing supports divide the case? I guess my question is would the excess gas pooled up in the PTO side of the case be allowed to be blown back out of the other two cylinders?
That would further cement the belief that it's flooded full.
I think I'll take it apart though, I don't want to risk anything and I have the time to take it apart. I would feel better looking at the Primary jet again just to be sure.
Also, I did notice a good deal of blow back into the airbox on the two good cylinders that were running, is that normal? Is the crankcase open to all three cylinders, or do the crank bearing supports divide the case? I guess my question is would the excess gas pooled up in the PTO side of the case be allowed to be blown back out of the other two cylinders?
That would further cement the belief that it's flooded full.
Would it work to just unhook the pulse line from the crankcase to the fuel pump and remove the plugs and pull it over a bunch of times? I would think that would drain it somewhat? Or would that be inadequate?
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
9801srx
Member
the crank case is sealed between cyl's and the pulse line is connected to the middle cyl.
spray starting fluid into the pipe once removed then blow it out with compressed air, it will completely dry out the pipe then. just dont use the starting fluid in the case, will remove oil from the main bearings, just use compressed air there, put it back together and it will run on all 3
Thanks guys!
I had visions of an exhaust pipe, starting fluid, and my torch....followed by screams, smoke, some flailing about, more screams (from the wife), and few trepid barks from the dog, sirens....then darkness.
I had visions of an exhaust pipe, starting fluid, and my torch....followed by screams, smoke, some flailing about, more screams (from the wife), and few trepid barks from the dog, sirens....then darkness.
SRX7
New member
Its OK we'll burry you with your sled.LOL
ROFL!
Got it running well, I think! Tore it town, dried it out, sat it overnight, then I fired it up and it ran great....until I took it down the street and lost that same cylinder. On a whim I changed out the new plug for an old one and now it runs great. I took it out and put about 17 miles on it and it seems to have all the power it should, I got it up to about 95mph in a field, probably not more than a 1/4 mile then I let off. I actually felt some motion sickness for the first time ever on a sled! My last sled was an Ultra 680 with alot of clutch work and very well set up by a relative, and even though it'd pull the skis, it was nothing like this SRX is!
My only concern is some popping when I blip it or just get into the throttle. I think it's the Dynoport can and the normal sound of triples which are new to me...but I'll be keeping an eye on the plugs. Right now all three were a nice light brown and clean/dry after the ride. I also did a compression check again and all came in around 135. I set my air screws to 1-1/4 since I wasn't sure how it ran before but they were set at 1-1/8 originally, and seems like guys have some trouble at the stock setting so I went a little more just to see and not have to go in there again hopefully this season.
Got it running well, I think! Tore it town, dried it out, sat it overnight, then I fired it up and it ran great....until I took it down the street and lost that same cylinder. On a whim I changed out the new plug for an old one and now it runs great. I took it out and put about 17 miles on it and it seems to have all the power it should, I got it up to about 95mph in a field, probably not more than a 1/4 mile then I let off. I actually felt some motion sickness for the first time ever on a sled! My last sled was an Ultra 680 with alot of clutch work and very well set up by a relative, and even though it'd pull the skis, it was nothing like this SRX is!
My only concern is some popping when I blip it or just get into the throttle. I think it's the Dynoport can and the normal sound of triples which are new to me...but I'll be keeping an eye on the plugs. Right now all three were a nice light brown and clean/dry after the ride. I also did a compression check again and all came in around 135. I set my air screws to 1-1/4 since I wasn't sure how it ran before but they were set at 1-1/8 originally, and seems like guys have some trouble at the stock setting so I went a little more just to see and not have to go in there again hopefully this season.
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SRX7
New member
The tripple can have a burble sound to them. That can be cleaned up by moving the needles. My does it a little but I left the needles alone, It runs strong and I don't want to risk a burn down due to the fact I leaned it out.