Just wondering if anyone has re-valved the Ohlins front shocks? Thinking of sending mine to Shock Therapy to have them done and was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on what the best setup would be.
They seem to work great for the big one-timer bumps, but they dont seem to re-act fast enough for the choppy studder bumps.
Ive adjusted the compression from soft to hard and back without any real improvement in the studders.
Thanks for any help, Sno-Xr
They seem to work great for the big one-timer bumps, but they dont seem to re-act fast enough for the choppy studder bumps.
Ive adjusted the compression from soft to hard and back without any real improvement in the studders.
Thanks for any help, Sno-Xr
yamaholic22
Active member
You would need to adjust the rebound dampening as well (if you have it on your particular Ohlins model) for the quick-response in the studder bumps.
Unfortunitly no, just compression adjustment.
They feel like there is no high speed compression. Basically they are stiff as a rock over the studders!!
They feel like there is no high speed compression. Basically they are stiff as a rock over the studders!!
Dave I would recommend hy gear suspension.They do awesome work.
Pull your shocks off, strip off the springs & compress both shocks at the same time...by pushing then in towards the floor...you'll notice one will be easier than the other & same for the rebound...if one or both do not return fully, they need to be recharged...mine I had just did them & wow what a difference new oil & fresh charge of nitrogen did...&...remember to run them a little softer till ya break them in again, I went 2 clicks less the first 200km's...cheersSno-Xr said:
Thanks Ryan! This guy is local and Ive heard alot good things about him, Im just not sure if he has a good setup for the Ohlins on a snowmobile.
theblues, Im sure they are getting close to needding a rebuild, but they have acted like this since they were new. So Im considering having them re-valved, just wondering if anyone else has had any luck with a different shim stack, shock oil , or nitrogen psi.
Thanks
theblues, Im sure they are getting close to needding a rebuild, but they have acted like this since they were new. So Im considering having them re-valved, just wondering if anyone else has had any luck with a different shim stack, shock oil , or nitrogen psi.
Thanks
Have you considered Pioneer Performance? They re-valved my Viper KYB shocks with custom valving in 2 days. I would call Bruce at Pioneer and see what options he has for Ohlins. G.B.
800
New member
Did ya just try the next softer spring? That will absorb the stutter bumps, go 10 to 15lbs. softer on the springs then up 2 clicks on the shocks. What sled/ shocks are these? If they are the Viper S shocks, they are too stiff and do exactly what you said, springs fix the problem.
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They were stock on my 04 Viper S. I havent tried different springs but I have gone through the range of adjustment on the stock ones.800 said:
I guess Im thinking its the valving because its biggest issue is the high speed studders. Almost like they are not compressing at all, unable to push the oil through the stack fast enough.
They seem fine when jumping or hitting large bumps, just not the continous chatter bumps at 70-80 mph.
800
New member
Think about what you just said, "they are not compressing" yes that could be valving, but springs compress too. Stock VS shocks come with the springs set with no preload, why? because they are pretty stiff, stock VS springs are 115lb springs, I've personally tested 85-115lb springs on this sled, 95-100 is a very nice compromise, with like 1/8" of preload, 85 gave the best straight line ride, you couldn't feel anything the problem is when you drop it in a high speed turn it gets pretty pitchy. The stockers were much better in a turn but straight line in stutters, you could feel it in the handlebars. Everything is a trade off...........
Im not a big suspension tuner! lol But I do have some reasonning capabilities!
Im not saying they dont compress, they do, just under slower-bigger bump conditions.Thats why I thought Valving. At High speeds the valving wouldnt allow the oil to pass fast enough,but would at slower rates. I know I have tried to compress shocks by hand that seem to almost stop the harder you try,(almost like hydro-lock) but would compress easily and at a faster rate under lighter efforts.
Have you tried revalveing on these shocks?
Whats your thought as far as a dual rate spring or dual spring set-up, have you had a chance to try something like that out? A little softer at the beginning for the smaller bumps and a little stiffer for the bigger stuff.
Believe me, I do appretiate the help.
Thanks, Sno-Xr
Im not saying they dont compress, they do, just under slower-bigger bump conditions.Thats why I thought Valving. At High speeds the valving wouldnt allow the oil to pass fast enough,but would at slower rates. I know I have tried to compress shocks by hand that seem to almost stop the harder you try,(almost like hydro-lock) but would compress easily and at a faster rate under lighter efforts.
Have you tried revalveing on these shocks?
Whats your thought as far as a dual rate spring or dual spring set-up, have you had a chance to try something like that out? A little softer at the beginning for the smaller bumps and a little stiffer for the bigger stuff.
Believe me, I do appretiate the help.
Thanks, Sno-Xr
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Dave, give it a try with one of the swaybar dogbones removed effectively allowing each shock/spring to work independently. This is only a test, and you should only run like this if you don't care about corner lean because you will loose your anti-roll capabilities.
My findings have been similar to what 800 (sorry forgot your name at the moment) suggests. With your weight, lighter springs should make a big difference. Re-valving will likely help after that.
I think you will need to lighten the springs first before valving changes will help.
My findings have been similar to what 800 (sorry forgot your name at the moment) suggests. With your weight, lighter springs should make a big difference. Re-valving will likely help after that.
I think you will need to lighten the springs first before valving changes will help.
800
New member
Yes you are correct and Dingy is smarter than I thought. The sway bar effectively ties the 2 sides of the sled together and the springs, so if you disconnect the sway bar and run it in a straight line, and you like it, that verifies that the springs are too stiff. It will try to roll over in a turn. So that is just a quick test. What I do is if I running straight line in the bumps and things feel too stiff, I'll put the right ski up on the side of the trail so the left is taking all the abuse, if the front end feels better then, the springs are too stiff.
What you experienced compressing the shock is also correct, the quicker you compress it the harder it is, it's supposed to do that, the valving is not linear. So when you put it up in the air and come down hard the valving is stiffer. As well you just verified to yourself that your shocks are softer in the short end of the travel.
And yes, I've tried multi rate springs. Like I said before, everything you do is a trade off. This all depends on your style of riding, thats why things are adjustable. Multi rate springs will ride better in the stutters, however, if want to rail corners they aren't the ticket. The soft rate gives up too quick and the sled pitches too much to quick and the rest of the suspension follows. Everything works together so if you want to dial it in you must change more than one thing at a time if you care that much. Multi rate springs can be made to work but you need a stiffer sway bar, if you don't have a tunable one don't bother getting that involved.
Also, I have tried revalving those shocks, they're pretty close just the way they are. You could spend alot of money in valving and find out you don't like what you did.
Springs will make a more noticeable difference, it's easier, as well as cheaper, you can make it better and unless you want to spend alot of money "good enough" for the average guy is OK.
You want a "good" set up for your sled? Here it is, stock VS shocks, springs, 98 XTC optional 1.7 rate springs, and get rid of the "dog bones" and replace them with hyme joints, springs will need about 3/8" pre load.
What you experienced compressing the shock is also correct, the quicker you compress it the harder it is, it's supposed to do that, the valving is not linear. So when you put it up in the air and come down hard the valving is stiffer. As well you just verified to yourself that your shocks are softer in the short end of the travel.
And yes, I've tried multi rate springs. Like I said before, everything you do is a trade off. This all depends on your style of riding, thats why things are adjustable. Multi rate springs will ride better in the stutters, however, if want to rail corners they aren't the ticket. The soft rate gives up too quick and the sled pitches too much to quick and the rest of the suspension follows. Everything works together so if you want to dial it in you must change more than one thing at a time if you care that much. Multi rate springs can be made to work but you need a stiffer sway bar, if you don't have a tunable one don't bother getting that involved.
Also, I have tried revalving those shocks, they're pretty close just the way they are. You could spend alot of money in valving and find out you don't like what you did.
Springs will make a more noticeable difference, it's easier, as well as cheaper, you can make it better and unless you want to spend alot of money "good enough" for the average guy is OK.
You want a "good" set up for your sled? Here it is, stock VS shocks, springs, 98 XTC optional 1.7 rate springs, and get rid of the "dog bones" and replace them with hyme joints, springs will need about 3/8" pre load.
Wow, what would he have said about me if I had actually remembered his name (Bill) ???
Even a blind squirrel will find an acorn once in a while . . .
Just having fun guys . . .
Even a blind squirrel will find an acorn once in a while . . .
Just having fun guys . . .
800
New member
Dingy, see if you try hard enough you'll remember, must have been that little voice in your head...............................LOL
You hear it too, do you ? ? ?
