Anyone ever swapped out a '79 102" skid for a '86 109" skid? Looks like it may need a tunnel extension to keep from hitting the flap and tunnel closeoff.
This is a '79 ET300 and a skid out of a '86 Enticer 340. Same drivers and pitch length, just has 2 more pitches. The 109" skid also has a lot more travel and sits higher.
Just wondering what you guys found out if you did this swap.
This is a '79 ET300 and a skid out of a '86 Enticer 340. Same drivers and pitch length, just has 2 more pitches. The 109" skid also has a lot more travel and sits higher.
Just wondering what you guys found out if you did this swap.
Anybody got any input? Gonna get started on it today.
opsled
Active member
Use the measurements from the 86 (drive axle back, top of tunnel down) for your mounting holes on the 300 tunnel. Renforce the area if nessessary and you should be good to go. You probably won't need to extend the tunnel just make a plate that goes under the snow flap with a bend in it that makes the flap tail back some. You will know that once you have the skid installed.
Good Luck, opsled
Good Luck, opsled
BuckSwashler
New member
sounds like a great swap i want to swap a phazer skid into my exciter, easy swap or no
i did one years ago. 121 srv skid into a 300 enticer. was pretty straight forward, added a 94 vmax track, had to change drivers. had a tunnel extension and new bumper made. sled works alot better with the "long track". also, ski skins from the 97-98 vmax skis can be modified to fit the leafspring skis and makes a world of difference on steering and sticking. as stated above, measure and go for it.
Can you post more info on modifying the ski skins to fit? Seems rather easy, just want to hear from someone who has done it.snowdad4 said:
I need to make a 4" tunnel extension. Got a 12" piece of diamond plate aluminum here that ought to do it. I just don't have a brake to bend it on. I made a cardboard mock-up, so am ready to go as soon as I find a brake.
you have to redrill holes for the wear bar studs(2 rear ones). i used a 5/8" paddle bit over a block of wood. then elongate front hole where the bar has a bend. i kept removing a little at a time with a bur on the die grinder until it fit. then if you really want the skin to fit tighter on the ski, take a grinder and remove some of the radious off the rear of the ski. i skipped this on the last set and it doesnt seem to affect anything. last step is to drill for rivent on front. i used the predrilled hole on the ski skin plus another one further down as i didnt feel a good grab from the first rivet landing in the ski hoop. mine seemed tight enough at the rear that i didnt rivet this location. works and looks great. skins i used were from 97 sx. had them laying around. kept looking at them, then said what if? they are almost a dead match, less hole orientation. good luck! if i think of it this weekend, i will take a pic.