Sleepy
New member
I just finished reading the post from "devvy2" about swapping the rear suspension. I'm just looking to adjust mine for this year. I've already sunk some coin into her and funds are done for this season. I want to put a little more pressure on the front to help steer through the corners. Any suggestions? I was looking at the manual, and it appears to have 3 adjustments. I'm 220lbs.
Thanks
Sleepy
Thanks
Sleepy
I assume from your aviator that you have a Viper is that correct? Second question would be how is the front and rear suspension set up now - spring preloads, carbides, studs, FRA, limiter straps? I would help to have you give that info as well.
Mills
Mills
Sleepy
New member
Yeah, it is an 02 Viper. I have 6" dually carbids on the front (which have made the world of difference), and an Ice Ripper 1 1/4" camoplast track. The suspension specs.........couldn't tell you off hand. I would have to take some measurements.
I would tighten your limiters one whole nut width at a time, test drive it in between, log down what you did, if it didn't work you will know where to put it back...how hi does the sled lift under take off...
Viper-Rules!
New member
Get a zx2!
Hi. I put a zx2 rear suspension in my viper this fall. So far I have 300 miles on the skid. The skid amazes me. First of all this skid transfer's awsome compared to proaction. You will find yourself going into corners hard and when you get half way around the corner, all you want to do is get on the gas and come out. It amazes me how much fun it is to get on the throttle and power out of corners, without any track spin or funny handling.
This skid is adjustable for a 120 Ibs rider right up to a 450 Ibs rider. I have it set on the medium coupling setting and the shock pre load at 3 out of 7. I weigh 180 Ibs. The harder you ride the skid, the better it performes. At slow speeds it rides a little stiff over big bumps, but real smooth over ripples. if you get on the gas it will make the big bumps disappear. I rode through a mogual field yesterday on the trail at about 70 MPH and it absorbed all of the bumps (about a foot high on average) without any kick back or bottoming.Smooth sailing all the way through. I have also done some jumping and it seems close to impossible to bottom this skid if setup right. So far I haven't bottomed it, so I'm going to soften it up a bit more. The skid is so easy to adjust and dial in, it makes the swap worth while. I can't believe how much fun it is to ride my viper hard down an ugly trail. Before I would have to go slow, or the proaction would kill my back. If you want to ride powder you can reduce the weight transfer to keep the ski's up higher, by just moving 2 rovoling pins. So easy to do. So far this skid has exceed my expectations and I don't miss the pro action one bit.
Steve
Hi. I put a zx2 rear suspension in my viper this fall. So far I have 300 miles on the skid. The skid amazes me. First of all this skid transfer's awsome compared to proaction. You will find yourself going into corners hard and when you get half way around the corner, all you want to do is get on the gas and come out. It amazes me how much fun it is to get on the throttle and power out of corners, without any track spin or funny handling.
This skid is adjustable for a 120 Ibs rider right up to a 450 Ibs rider. I have it set on the medium coupling setting and the shock pre load at 3 out of 7. I weigh 180 Ibs. The harder you ride the skid, the better it performes. At slow speeds it rides a little stiff over big bumps, but real smooth over ripples. if you get on the gas it will make the big bumps disappear. I rode through a mogual field yesterday on the trail at about 70 MPH and it absorbed all of the bumps (about a foot high on average) without any kick back or bottoming.Smooth sailing all the way through. I have also done some jumping and it seems close to impossible to bottom this skid if setup right. So far I haven't bottomed it, so I'm going to soften it up a bit more. The skid is so easy to adjust and dial in, it makes the swap worth while. I can't believe how much fun it is to ride my viper hard down an ugly trail. Before I would have to go slow, or the proaction would kill my back. If you want to ride powder you can reduce the weight transfer to keep the ski's up higher, by just moving 2 rovoling pins. So easy to do. So far this skid has exceed my expectations and I don't miss the pro action one bit.
Steve
Rambunctious
New member
there are many ways to affect the ski pressure
since there are really 3 points of contact, the skis, the front of the track , and the rear of the track.
you can twist the springs on the skis to get more pressure , this raises your ride height some.
what I do is adjust the limiter strap on the track
I could rotate the strap bolts 2 or 3 full turns and that would be the difference between lifting the inside ski in a hard corner vs. keeping them planted.
bring a ratched driver with deep well socket on the trail with you and try 2 or 3 rotations at a time ( pulling it tighter to get more ski pressure coming out of a turn)
this is prolly the easiest way on the trail to dial in.
other option, less gap on the transfer rods
reduces the weigth transfer ( obviously since there is more weight on the ski, just physics) this would require an adjustable trasfer rod, or swapping out various thickness nylon bushings.
bottom line, I was amazed at how much I could influence ( ie improve) the handling of my sled with minor adjustments.
Ramb
since there are really 3 points of contact, the skis, the front of the track , and the rear of the track.
you can twist the springs on the skis to get more pressure , this raises your ride height some.
what I do is adjust the limiter strap on the track
I could rotate the strap bolts 2 or 3 full turns and that would be the difference between lifting the inside ski in a hard corner vs. keeping them planted.
bring a ratched driver with deep well socket on the trail with you and try 2 or 3 rotations at a time ( pulling it tighter to get more ski pressure coming out of a turn)
this is prolly the easiest way on the trail to dial in.
other option, less gap on the transfer rods
reduces the weigth transfer ( obviously since there is more weight on the ski, just physics) this would require an adjustable trasfer rod, or swapping out various thickness nylon bushings.
bottom line, I was amazed at how much I could influence ( ie improve) the handling of my sled with minor adjustments.
Ramb
bluebullet
New member
I also have a 2002 viper er and have the same set up, 6" dooleys in the front. I weigh in around 240 and think that previous owner was much lighter. I am getting push through the corners not much ski lift do to spinning. rear suspension is set to lower setting for stiffer ride but doesn't feel stiffer. If I tighten on the limiter this will also make my rear suspension alittle tighter ( stiffer). I will start with that and see what happens. Is the rear transfer rods adjustable? looks like nuts toward the top? I plan on trying one thing at a time. I don't want to send the shocks out for revalve in the middle of season! If these small adjustments don't work Thank I will start from scratch and set up as per Tech section. let me know how you make out. Thanks Blue
bluebullet
New member
So, I think I am right on the limiter tighting the rear suspension? Anyway I am goining to tighten 1 nut to put more ski pressure and go from there. Are the stock viper transfer rods adjustable via those nut like things on the rods? 3rd question for quicker backshift I need to wrap my secondary tighter from 60 to 70 correct? sorry I havent tuned in a while.
guys, read the below thread for how to adjust and how everything works.
blue, your duallies will never work correctly in a corner. they need to go on a shelf.
either use, cat offset duallies(you need to move the studs) or shaper bars on the stock skis. these two work the best. the dualies need even ski balance and the shapers need a little rear bias.
blue, your duallies will never work correctly in a corner. they need to go on a shelf.
either use, cat offset duallies(you need to move the studs) or shaper bars on the stock skis. these two work the best. the dualies need even ski balance and the shapers need a little rear bias.
bluebullet
New member
BETHEVIPER, Thanks on the advice on the dooly's, Never had them before always ran standard 6" or even 4" carbides and just had the sled set up better. I printed out your rear suspension guide from your link, It's great and easy to follow. Are the transfer rods on this viper adjustable( nut/nut) ? More degree of twist on secondary mean faster up/backshift correct? I am still interested in the tanks bag? Thanks!
Blue
Blue
bluebullet
New member
Anyone, Are the nuts on the transfer rods adjustable? I shorten the top about 1/4" supposed to give less weight transfer, more ski pressure and stiffen the suspension. I plan on trying out in the am. Not sure if makes the rod adjustable or makes it easier to take apart. On know on my other sleds you had to change the spacer? Thanks
viper style are adjustable, nuts jamb against each other
bluebullet
New member
Thanks Scott, Test and tune this am. conditions here are 180 out from 2 weeks ago with all the rain. I am going to try to get the handleing and ride alittle better with the doolies( brand new and came with the sled) Thanks again, Terry
the duallies are allways going to push in a corner. they are a poor design. work great straight ahead or slight corner. arctic cat is the only one that can sell woodys offset duallies. they bought the rights to them.
the reason duallies dont work is that you are trying to put the same sled weight on twice the area you are with a single carbide. the second reason is that when you turn your sliding the skis sideways, the center packs full of snow and now your carbides have even less pressure.
the reason duallies dont work is that you are trying to put the same sled weight on twice the area you are with a single carbide. the second reason is that when you turn your sliding the skis sideways, the center packs full of snow and now your carbides have even less pressure.
bluebullet
New member
Test run today
Went for a little test and tune ride. Small adjustment to tranfer rods worked, Sled rides stiffer and handles much better. Trails were set up hard with little snow dust. I know in the different condition's my handleing will change but aleast I have better suspension now for a fat guy like me! The old Viper really pulled pretty hard today with the trails set right up this morning. More snow later today and this weekend so maybe I get better conditions to test. I plan on putting my new 6" woodys carbide's on later when the trails get better for now I will ride out with the duallies.
Went for a little test and tune ride. Small adjustment to tranfer rods worked, Sled rides stiffer and handles much better. Trails were set up hard with little snow dust. I know in the different condition's my handleing will change but aleast I have better suspension now for a fat guy like me! The old Viper really pulled pretty hard today with the trails set right up this morning. More snow later today and this weekend so maybe I get better conditions to test. I plan on putting my new 6" woodys carbide's on later when the trails get better for now I will ride out with the duallies.
Sleepy
New member
Is that all you did, or did you mess around with the shocks too? What measurement are you on the transfere rods. I haven't had a chance to do anything, the wife thought Christmas was a little more important then playing in the garage....the nerve eh! I plan on stickin' with the duallies, there new and for the most part they have worked well compared to the singles...we'll see after I make some adjustments.
excel V
New member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2004
- Messages
- 28
BETHEVIPER hit the nail on the head. You can't use Dooly's & cornering in the same sentence. Install the Shaper Bars, shim the ski's, & you can corner again. The darting will be manageable.
bluebullet
New member
Sleepy, My viper was really set up for someone abou 150LBS not 240LBS fat guy like me. I shortened the upper rod travel about 1/4", put less weight tranfer and more ski pressure. I need a stiffer ( firm) ride. That was my first goal. When you are making adjustments always do one thing at a time. Then test. For now I am going to leave as it is and will try in differant conditions. I don't like the daullies and plan on going back to regular carbides later in season. The rear of the sled now sits correctly. my ride in height is closer to recommended height also. Good luck,
Blue
Blue