removing transfer rods?

jlebrun_05

jlebrun_05

New member
Joined
Dec 6, 2007
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65
Age
37
Location
South Dakota
Hey guys, was talking to a buddy who said to remove the transfer rods on my sled. I rode his sled that had them removed, a piped mountain viper, and wow, it pulled the skis up like nothing. Anybody do this without putting on the Mountain perforance strap kit, and just run it with no rods? Any problems that could happen from doing this? thanks in advance for any help :letitsnow
 

With the money you save by not buying the straps, find a couple good used w arms, and limiter straps. You will be needing them. Maxdlx
 
theres alot of problems that could come from removing them. first is track ratcheting. if u dont have anti ratcheting drive wheels could ruin ur track. second u need some kind of strap to stop the rear torque arm from opening all the way and flipping inside out. u need to have spacers made for the upper shaft to replace the transfer rods. last which im not totally sure of depending on what u have for a track size, i know on a 121 im almost positive that the arm will hit the inner rear wheel if u dont have some kind of stop block and if it doesnt hit the wheels id bet it could sit down enough to hit the track but like i said im not sure on that id really have to take a good look and see to be sure
 
It looks impressive to lift the skis, but it is not from power, only from bad rear suspension set up. This is a old Snowmobile dealer trick for demo rides. Makes you think it is soooo powerful that you can't keep the skis down. If there is not 30+ feet of rooster tail behind the sled when it lifts the skis it is bad set up, if there is 30+ feet don't race him it is a pure power tail walk.
 
my sled i put bender rod in it get enough tranfer they have 2 adjustments tranfer and coupling this would be all you need remember the distance the front comes up you could be going foward
 
terret725 said:
theres alot of problems that could come from removing them. first is track ratcheting. if u dont have anti ratcheting drive wheels could ruin ur track. second u need some kind of strap to stop the rear torque arm from opening all the way and flipping inside out. u need to have spacers made for the upper shaft to replace the transfer rods. last which im not totally sure of depending on what u have for a track size, i know on a 121 im almost positive that the arm will hit the inner rear wheel if u dont have some kind of stop block and if it doesnt hit the wheels id bet it could sit down enough to hit the track but like i said im not sure on that id really have to take a good look and see to be sure
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i left the original spacer on the shaft and just cut the rod off with a sawzall inside of the wheel. its got a 144" track, so i think if i just put on the straps from mountain perforance i would be fine. Anybody ever make their own, or know the specs on strap length and what materials to use? i know they sell them for 50, but if thats all they charge, they can probably make them for 10. thanks
 
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