need some feedback

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blueblood

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Nov 18, 2005
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Tupper Lake, NY
I had just finished putting in my re-valved rear shocks from pioneer back into my 02 viper. I ended up having to remove one of the rear idler wheels. Now everything is back together and I'm tightening up the rear bolt( the one the cotter pin goes thru) I barely have enough threads to fit the pin thru( plenty tight). I don't remember if it was always like that or if I used to have more threads showing. Also the bolt that goes thru the front of the rear shock, the adjustable one with the teeth on both end, does it matter which side that ends up on? I didn't know if the teeth are directional. should the bolt go thru on the throttle side or the brake side?
Thanks
 

as for the rear shaft, as long as you get the cotter pin in, thats good, but there IS a reason there's less threads showing.......mine was the same, then I tighthened the bolts snug, and the shaft moved a bit, and seated better in the bearing for the outside wheel.
 
Lokk at the fra, and see if it is nearled on both sides, if it is then it don't matter, if it isn't put the nurled end of the bolt to the nurled side of the fra. Maxdlx
 
blueblood said:
I had just finished putting in my re-valved rear shocks from pioneer back into my 02 viper. I ended up having to remove one of the rear idler wheels. Now everything is back together and I'm tightening up the rear bolt( the one the cotter pin goes thru) I barely have enough threads to fit the pin thru( plenty tight). I don't remember if it was always like that or if I used to have more threads showing. Also the bolt that goes thru the front of the rear shock, the adjustable one with the teeth on both end, does it matter which side that ends up on? I didn't know if the teeth are directional. should the bolt go thru on the throttle side or the brake side?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Less then 20 min. it takes to pull the skid out & set it up on a bench...go over everything cause something is not right... you should have a lot of thread showing...make sure all the adjusters are facing the proper way...if not when you ad tension to the track it will draw it in crooked...there are washers & spacers, collars etc...if you don't take the time now, it could cost you a track...cheers
 
I second theblues most have lots of threads sticking out, I dont even remove the pin just lossen the nut.
 
for sure something wrong should be showing alot more threads there should be enough to loosen nut to adjust track without removing cotter key
 
I pulled the skid completely checked everything over , twice. Found nothing wrong. Would it be possible that new wheels could contribute. I had new wheels put on along with a new track. I didn't do the work myself, and I don't remember the amount of exposed thread. I wonder with the new wheels I may have needed smaller spacers.
I took the sled for a burn seems to run fine. The re-valved rear shocks from pioneer were amazing.
 
sure it could. I re-used all stock stuff when I did it, so I knew something was wrong...i just changed out bearings in the stock wheels.

As long as everything is tight, and its alligned right (even on both sides of the track) then I really dont see much to worry about...
 
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