jwiedmayer
New member
horkn
New member
Ditch Pickle!
LOL
Nice paintwork!
keep us posted
LOL
Nice paintwork!
keep us posted
patsxr700
New member
Wow looks good your gonna see a big differnce. I didnt know u could do that. UMM thats somthing for next year
~pat
~pat
jwiedmayer
New member
I have to hunt around for you dimensions yet.
Sno-Xr said:
boondoctor
New member
Your wife will love it! One of my best mods, thanks again Snoxr for the dimension and info.
skid00skid00
New member
An update to an old post, the Works Performance shocks are still working fine. The springs have not settled any more than they did after the first season.
I posted this in 2005:
Just a note for other options on long-travel SX's. I went with Works Performance 2 winters ago. I think the cost was $850 for all four shocks. With a 'normal' setup, ride height is about 1/2" higher than an XTC long-travel sled. Ride is *better* than the XTC, the compression and rebound damping are lower. Cornering roll is higher, but not a problem.
I ride at high speeds (85mph) between corners, on trails with little snow and lot's of 1-foot dips. With the stock suspension set for maximum ride height, I'd have to slow down and stand to survive. Now, I can just sit down and ride.
I had the springs sack out a bit, and then preloaded them quite high last fall. I don't know if this will be a continuing problem... Also, the front shocks wept a little oil. I'd guess 1/4 of a teaspoon total. There are two springs per shock, and you can adjust 'crossover' between them.
I think if these shocks/springs hold up, that this is a good alternative to modifying the stock shocks, plus you get long-travel front shocks. I think the damping is perfect for high speeds, with no sharp shocks transmitted, and fast rebound (but doesn't kick the seat up). The feel is like a long-travel cross-county cycle-cushy, but well-behaved.
I posted this in 2005:
Just a note for other options on long-travel SX's. I went with Works Performance 2 winters ago. I think the cost was $850 for all four shocks. With a 'normal' setup, ride height is about 1/2" higher than an XTC long-travel sled. Ride is *better* than the XTC, the compression and rebound damping are lower. Cornering roll is higher, but not a problem.
I ride at high speeds (85mph) between corners, on trails with little snow and lot's of 1-foot dips. With the stock suspension set for maximum ride height, I'd have to slow down and stand to survive. Now, I can just sit down and ride.
I had the springs sack out a bit, and then preloaded them quite high last fall. I don't know if this will be a continuing problem... Also, the front shocks wept a little oil. I'd guess 1/4 of a teaspoon total. There are two springs per shock, and you can adjust 'crossover' between them.
I think if these shocks/springs hold up, that this is a good alternative to modifying the stock shocks, plus you get long-travel front shocks. I think the damping is perfect for high speeds, with no sharp shocks transmitted, and fast rebound (but doesn't kick the seat up). The feel is like a long-travel cross-county cycle-cushy, but well-behaved.
jwiedmayer
New member
I have Works shocks on the front of my sled. I like them. But I have less then 300 into this AC skid. Way cheaper then the works shocks for the rear. And I doubt you will ever get the proaction to transfer weight as well as the AC skid.
Boodocker and SnoXR,
Do really have to trim the front of the skid to get it to slide into the tunnel? J
Boodocker and SnoXR,
Do really have to trim the front of the skid to get it to slide into the tunnel? J
jwiedmayer
New member
Ok what's the trick to get it in? I have the front bolted up but the back is not close and its against the coupling blocks. It looks like I have to preload it or something? Do you have to take the springs off?
If you take the springs off the reatainers it helps get the rears lined up. Mine is a IQ skid but same basic set up. You will really love itif it rides as nice as my pro x iq. Maxdlx
I forgot Cats you can't just pop the springs out. My Bad. Maxdlx
jwiedmayer
New member
Sno-xr after I was looking at yours installed it looks like the springs stick about 1/2 out of the retainers. Mine are not evening sticking out. And the scissor are is against the coupling blocks. So I think I'm going to put a rachet strap on it and see if I can compress it a little.
Man the rail tips are pretty close to the drivers too! like a fingers width!
Maxdlx- I did read the ac guys where cutting off the tops of the blocks to do as you mentioned. But evidently you have to secure the top of the spring so if it fails the track does not get fubared.
Man the rail tips are pretty close to the drivers too! like a fingers width!
Maxdlx- I did read the ac guys where cutting off the tops of the blocks to do as you mentioned. But evidently you have to secure the top of the spring so if it fails the track does not get fubared.
Get the polaris blocks and bolt them on. I had my springs in and out 100 times trying to get mine right. You can also pop them out to turn the adjuster to make it easier that way. Maxdlx
Before it is installed, the springs wont stick out. Im not sure why your scissor is up against the couplers,the scissor should be against the cross bar in front of it. Remove the bolts holding the crossbar in, and use a prybar or large screwdrive to rotate the scissor forward, then try and istall it. You should be able to bolt the front of the skid in first, and then rotate the scissor forward to align the rear.
jwiedmayer
New member
That's where I'm at. I'll git r done.
Sno-Xr said:
jwiedmayer
New member
Its in. I tookt the shaft you that was circled. Then put a rachet strap on the main shock and compressed it. Put the sled up and down with a bottle jack it went right in.
How much sag to do you guys see and what setting do you put the main springs on?
How much sag to do you guys see and what setting do you put the main springs on?