Do you really need to pull the motor to replace the front heat exchanger? Or, can you drop the track, grind the rivets and pull it out from underneath?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I hit a rock and ripped a hole in the bottom edge of the heat exchanger. I was thinking about having it wleded but fear it may not hold. My luck I will be out in the middle of nowhere it it will blow loose. Any luck with welding it or even an epoxy product?
Thanks!
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I hit a rock and ripped a hole in the bottom edge of the heat exchanger. I was thinking about having it wleded but fear it may not hold. My luck I will be out in the middle of nowhere it it will blow loose. Any luck with welding it or even an epoxy product?
Thanks!
taylzee
New member
The motor has to come out I'm afraid. I just did this on my mountain max. Mine is welded. It is fairly thick aluminum so you can get a good wel on it. It depends if it is a crack or a hole. Mine was just a crack so welding was fairly painless.
There are rivets that are in there from the inside around the steering mount and up top. It is a complete tear down on the chasis. It seems these sleds are built around that exchanger...
There are rivets that are in there from the inside around the steering mount and up top. It is a complete tear down on the chasis. It seems these sleds are built around that exchanger...
heat
Is it possible to run the sled with only the other 3 heat exchangers? Why not disconnect the front heat exchanger and try? Put in a temp meter if you want to be it safe, maybe somebody tried it? The viper only have 3 coolers.
Is it possible to run the sled with only the other 3 heat exchangers? Why not disconnect the front heat exchanger and try? Put in a temp meter if you want to be it safe, maybe somebody tried it? The viper only have 3 coolers.
the front cooler is the main heart of the cooling system, it recives the most amount of snow to cool the sled, it also holds the greatest volume of coolant, it wont work without it. The viper uses the front cooler and the running board coolers with a tube across the back and still will overheat in low snow, thats why people add the rear excahnger to them, without a front cooler youd not make it very far before you overheated the sled.
You can successfully tig weld the coolers in the sled, depending upon where the crack is, sometimes youll need to remove the track and skidframe and hang the back from the ceiling, the biggest concern is draining the system and cleaning the crack well to get rid of the antifreeze as it will contaminate the weld, I usually use a propane torch after I clean the area well and pre heat the crack, heat it up good and hot! this will ensure you got it clean and easier to tig weld it.
You can successfully tig weld the coolers in the sled, depending upon where the crack is, sometimes youll need to remove the track and skidframe and hang the back from the ceiling, the biggest concern is draining the system and cleaning the crack well to get rid of the antifreeze as it will contaminate the weld, I usually use a propane torch after I clean the area well and pre heat the crack, heat it up good and hot! this will ensure you got it clean and easier to tig weld it.
daman
New member
If you can't do it your self any reputable welding shop can do this,if repaired properly it'll be like new..
it'll save ya the head ach of pulling the cooler..
it'll save ya the head ach of pulling the cooler..
change_up
New member
Whatever you do, first follow mrviper700's advice if you're doing this yourself. If you're taking it to a shop I'll build on that and emphasize that you need to have this area clean. Make sure it's accessible (easily) to the welder. Take a stainless wire brush and clean the area (go away from the damaged area in one direction with the brush) then wipe with a clean rag soaked with acetone to be sure all grease is removed. Let dry. Cover it up well while transporting it to the welding shop.
The biggest factor in cost for a weld like this (a tig weld on an exposed, dirty part) is the cleaning. Cleaning the area is the most important and takes the longest amount of time. The weld should only take about 5-10 mins depending on the extent of damage, but it's all the preparation on top of that that really adds to the bill.. and on top of that, it's normally the part that the welder hates the most. That's my case anyway.
The biggest factor in cost for a weld like this (a tig weld on an exposed, dirty part) is the cleaning. Cleaning the area is the most important and takes the longest amount of time. The weld should only take about 5-10 mins depending on the extent of damage, but it's all the preparation on top of that that really adds to the bill.. and on top of that, it's normally the part that the welder hates the most. That's my case anyway.
Thanks guys. I have a heat exchanger on its way, but it sounds like I should atleast try and weld it first. Hopefully, it will hold.
I was thinking about bypassing it, but it makes sense that it would then over-heat.
I was thinking about bypassing it, but it makes sense that it would then over-heat.
800
New member
They're easy to weld, it's extruded aluminum and welds nice, but if it's torn vertically on the inside towards the motor you'll still have to take it out to fix it. Why bother welding it if you go to all the trouble to take it out? I have a used one for $50 plus.
I have one on its way, but will keep you in mind if it falls through.
The tear is on the bottom edge facing the track about an inch long. Real easy to get at.
The tear is on the bottom edge facing the track about an inch long. Real easy to get at.
apexdreamer
New member
I have pulled a few on scrap sleds and believe me it is a real real pain in the A_ _ if it can be welded I would do that in a second. even after al the rivets are drilled the thing is so tight in there it can be extremely frustrating to get out Good Luck with the weld!
800
New member
If you can get at it from the bottom, just disconnect the hoses, run water through it, dry it out with a propane torch, weld it.