stein700sx
VIP Member
Wondering if there is a ugrade or update hand warmers for my 02 Viper.It takes about a good 25 minutes or so to get the heat transfering into the gloves.By that time my fingers are almost frozen.
My 97 sx would melt my gloves off.Well, not really but would always turn them down no matter what the temp was.
My 97 sx would melt my gloves off.Well, not really but would always turn them down no matter what the temp was.
Add a set of hand gaurds, they really help deflect the wind and keep your hands warm. Even on a short windy.
mopar1rules
Active member
i'm having the same problem with my '02 viper. have to drive like a good 30 min before you feel the heat through the gloves. then, when it starts to get really hot, I back off a little on the dial and then it gets too cold and then my hands freeze again. then I have to crank the dial wide open and do it all over again. if its like 0deg outside, my hands and thumb will freeze, even with both dials at full heat. when i had my '99 700 srx, that thing would melt my hands, no matter what the temp. what's the deal with these viper handwarmers? did yamaha change something?
pipdviper
Member
Mine on my '02 worked really good till I put a set of aluminum renthals on it!! They were hot in like 5 mins with the factory bars on it. Now the aluminum pulls the heat right out and it takes about 15 mins to heat up.
on my 02 i found that they heat up good at trail speeds 50-70kph any slower than that and my hands freeze. One side note is they sucked until i used a tiwrap to keep the plugin by the left footwell together as the were always becoming partially unplugged.
stein700sx
VIP Member
kirkswim said:on my 02 i found that they heat up good at trail speeds 50-70kph any slower than that and my hands freeze. One side note is they sucked until i used a tiwrap to keep the plugin by the left footwell together as the were always becoming partially unplugged.
Which connector did you tywrap? Found about five conn in the footwell
pipdviper
Member
someone just told me if you get a can of that expanding foam from like Lowe's and fill the inside of the bars it helps a lot. Anyone ever try this?
TJ500
Member
pipdviper said:someone just told me if you get a can of that expanding foam from like Lowe's and fill the inside of the bars it helps a lot. Anyone ever try this?
filled the ends of my bars with fiberglass pink and reinstalled the grips... works much better than before.. (02 MM700)
stein700sx
VIP Member
I wonder what it would take to put a 04 set of bars on with the controls on the top .
Anyone ever try this?
Sure would be easier to adjust on-the-fly instead of looking down under your left hand.
Anyone ever try this?
Sure would be easier to adjust on-the-fly instead of looking down under your left hand.
they are in the left foot well(behind the plastic). I traced them down from the top to find them. I did this in 03 so it has been awhile, but i de remember that i rerouted my hand warmer wires as they seemed to be really tight and i had trouble getting the connector to stay.
BETHEVIPER
Life Member
the reason for the low heat at lower speeds is that this system puts less voltage to the grips at lower rpms. I had three different versions of heating systems on my viper and they all worked great, the log style heaters were the only ones that took a long time to heat.
filling the ends with foam or insulation works good, also you need to cover the steel part of the bar that is exposed to the air with some sort of thermal barier. foam pipe insulation or even cloth tape. This is one of two reasons that the newer sleds grips dont heat well enough. They leave too much of the bar exposed to the weather. Older modle sleds covered most of the bar with a foam pad. second problem is heating too much bar. the part that is heated is alot longer than needed for your hand to grab. that means your heated part of the bar is out to the weather.
this week i am building a new set of bars. i have used plastic bar hooks, aftermarket stick on heaters, heat shrink tubing, pipe insulation, fiberglass insulation and cat style slide on grips.
the plastic hooks dont conduct cold to the hand. I use heat shrink tubing to cover the area of the bar that is between the hook and the throttle block or brake master. This will keep the steel bar from acting as a heat sink to the heater and hand. I will only make the grip as long as it needs to be for my hand to fit on the bar. I will be packing the inside with insulation to keep any cold air from moving around inside the bar. I will use pipe insulation on the outside of the bar where the rest of it will be exposed.
the last bars i had done were very warm even though i had used an aluminum hook and never insulated the bar from the heater. This set of bars should be over the top warm(hope).
cost for a set of custom bars are not that much, 10$ for heat elements, 20 for grips, 20 each for plastic hooks, 4$ for heat shrink. all this is still cheaper than buying 1 grip warmer for a new yamaha.
filling the ends with foam or insulation works good, also you need to cover the steel part of the bar that is exposed to the air with some sort of thermal barier. foam pipe insulation or even cloth tape. This is one of two reasons that the newer sleds grips dont heat well enough. They leave too much of the bar exposed to the weather. Older modle sleds covered most of the bar with a foam pad. second problem is heating too much bar. the part that is heated is alot longer than needed for your hand to grab. that means your heated part of the bar is out to the weather.
this week i am building a new set of bars. i have used plastic bar hooks, aftermarket stick on heaters, heat shrink tubing, pipe insulation, fiberglass insulation and cat style slide on grips.
the plastic hooks dont conduct cold to the hand. I use heat shrink tubing to cover the area of the bar that is between the hook and the throttle block or brake master. This will keep the steel bar from acting as a heat sink to the heater and hand. I will only make the grip as long as it needs to be for my hand to fit on the bar. I will be packing the inside with insulation to keep any cold air from moving around inside the bar. I will use pipe insulation on the outside of the bar where the rest of it will be exposed.
the last bars i had done were very warm even though i had used an aluminum hook and never insulated the bar from the heater. This set of bars should be over the top warm(hope).
cost for a set of custom bars are not that much, 10$ for heat elements, 20 for grips, 20 each for plastic hooks, 4$ for heat shrink. all this is still cheaper than buying 1 grip warmer for a new yamaha.
TJ500
Member
BETHEVIPER said:cost for a set of custom bars are not that much, 10$ for heat elements, 20 for grips, 20 each for plastic hooks, 4$ for heat shrink. all this is still cheaper than buying 1 grip warmer for a new yamaha.
where are you getting the heat elements from? and the plastic hooks?..
$10 for heat elements is a decent price... I might even try something similar if I knew where to get them.
thanks TJ
BETHEVIPER
Life Member
the heating elements are from automatic. you can buy a kit for 20ish and below it they sell just the element as a service part. it comes with two elements for 10$
the bar ends i have are from a skidoo, they came on a junk sled. im not sure how much they were, the sport tech ones are around 20 each.
i have them all assembled, just waiting for the grips to come in.
the bar ends i have are from a skidoo, they came on a junk sled. im not sure how much they were, the sport tech ones are around 20 each.
i have them all assembled, just waiting for the grips to come in.