I have a 99sx 700 that I put long travel stuff in rear and viper shocks in front. All was good. Now I put 144" x 2" track on with extensions from Tracks USA and 8 tooth drivers.
Now the rear half of the track doesn't touch the ground and the the track has to be hyfax smoking tight to keep it from ratcheting.(ruined new 144" hyfax in 30 miles) I never thought I would say "I could use LESS weight transfer"
I've searched the forums and found similar threads, but nobody ever replied that they got it fixed.
Are anti-ratcheting drivers any good? I did see one guy that lost all of his track clips when he put them on.(He might have done some thing wrong)
Is a mountain max skid different other than length? Is it positioned different?
Thanks for any help.
Now the rear half of the track doesn't touch the ground and the the track has to be hyfax smoking tight to keep it from ratcheting.(ruined new 144" hyfax in 30 miles) I never thought I would say "I could use LESS weight transfer"
I've searched the forums and found similar threads, but nobody ever replied that they got it fixed.
Are anti-ratcheting drivers any good? I did see one guy that lost all of his track clips when he put them on.(He might have done some thing wrong)
Is a mountain max skid different other than length? Is it positioned different?
Thanks for any help.
SRXtreme
New member
The geometry of the 00' and newer mountain skids are different than yours. The on the trail fix is if you got adjustable transfer rods take all the transfer out. The best choice to make is suck up the front limiters. As the limiters are tightened up you will need to loosen off (readjust) track tension. Anti ratchet drives are a bandaid fix. Once you get the track to stop ratcheting at the proprer tension, then add noslip drivers and you can run the track a little looser................SRXtreme
A K MtnViper
New member
Anti-ratchet drivers are a must have item IMO. The newer sleds come with them. You have a lot of issues that need to be fixed. With your sled setting level try putting a bathroom scale both on the front and on the back of your track. Use blocks to raise the skis to same height, sit on sled and check weight on both scales. You want them to be close to the same. After that is done then it is easier to dial in for your kind of riding. Use limiter straps, longer drop brackets or different shock settings to achieve a level skid. Other people will have other ideas, but this is how I always start out with a new sled.
What pitch drivers do I need?
SRXtreme
New member
2.52.............SRXtreme
Well I've got work to do. Last weekend I got a rock wedged between the bulkhead and the track just above the front heat exchanger. Had to piggy back it out of the woods because the track was locked up.
Tonight I pulled the rear skid and the drive shaft to get it out. Two of the drive sprocket are bent, so while it's apart, it's getting extrovert drivers, all new bearings and bushings on the skid, and a 4th wheel for the rear axle.
Would it be worth putting a drop bracket in for the rear of the skid to help my track angle? Another option is I have a Polaris extra-10 sitting around(or is that stupid) I do know the extra-10 like the back of my hand, just never seen one in this new of a Yamaha.
Will sucking up my limiter straps make it less likely to ratchet? It would in theory give the track a little more wrap around the drivers.
Thanks again for your help guys.
Tonight I pulled the rear skid and the drive shaft to get it out. Two of the drive sprocket are bent, so while it's apart, it's getting extrovert drivers, all new bearings and bushings on the skid, and a 4th wheel for the rear axle.
Would it be worth putting a drop bracket in for the rear of the skid to help my track angle? Another option is I have a Polaris extra-10 sitting around(or is that stupid) I do know the extra-10 like the back of my hand, just never seen one in this new of a Yamaha.
Will sucking up my limiter straps make it less likely to ratchet? It would in theory give the track a little more wrap around the drivers.
Thanks again for your help guys.
Last edited:
grapeape
New member
if you do the extrovert drivers it will not ratchet. I would gp with Wahl drivers as the drive off both inside lugs as well
MSRXRider
New member
Heres what I did to my 98 srx it had a 136 track. Before I did this the rear of the track didnt touch the ground on a flat surface. TY member snowdad4 gave me this info. 144-136=8 x .5 = 4.all the suspension mounts move back 4". front of "w"arm back 4 and down 3/8. should end up right behind steering hoop brackets where your feet go. center mount back 4, down 5/8. rear mount back 4, down 1 1/4+. if you have access to 1/4" aluminum, i make my drop brackets 3 1/2 by 9 1/2, radius the corners and mount with 5/16 button head allens with whizlock nuts x 3 per plate, suspension hole in center. i use 1/8 plate to strengthen the 2 forward mounting points, and rivet on the 1/8. helpful hint: use a speed square inside the tunnel for layout. be damn sure all new holes are equal side to side, front to back. order a transfer enhancement kit from mtn perf. i cant make them any cheaper. this will make that sled lift and fly. Also have 8" anti-ratchets. Works great. I also put MM radiuos and tie rods on. That brought the front end up.
maxdlx
VIP Lifetime Member
Pull the limiters all the way up, and remember to let the spring tension off of the center spring. Maxdlx
Do you still run the outer two drivers, or just toss them?grapeape said:if you do the extrovert drivers it will not ratchet. I would gp with Wahl drivers as the drive off both inside lugs as well
maxdlx
VIP Lifetime Member
wotmode said:Do you still run the outer two drivers, or just toss them?
Selll them don't toss them. Maxdlx
pro116
Lifetime VIP Member
Did you get the 121toi 144": rail extensions form tracks usa.Do you know there kick up one's.
shortstop20
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I'm pretty sure all of the 121-144" extensions that Track USA sells are tipped up.