Maddogs700srx
VIP Member
I am tearing down my 2000 srx 144" and converting it back to a lake runner. Looking for info, pics, or suggestions for tying down the front and rear suspension. Also any tips on rear suspension setups for ice drags. I will be running 192 ice pics in a 121" track. Thanks.
800
New member
Looks much better if you just shorten all the shocks, no "tieing" necessary, just depends on how low you want it to be.
Maddogs700srx
VIP Member
I may end up getting a set shortened up at some point. Just looking for a quick fix for now.
valin
Active member
To get mine as low as it is, I had to drill new holes in the limiters, and crank it down in stages. Either that, or I could have just used chains, but I didn't want to at the time. The front I had to run SX shocks with SRX springs, and back them right off, then chain it down. I couldn't get it low enough with the ohlins.
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
Front, just loosen up the spring adjusters till it drops down where you want it, then use a small peice of old motorcycle tie down nylon strap, cut it to the length, and heat up a old screwdriver, melt a hole in each end for the bolts to go thru on the shock mounts, add a washer and your done.(but put the straps on last after you do the rear skid)
Rear:, loosen up the front skid shock spring, then place a 4x4 block of wood under front of curve on rails/skid, set sled down on it and crank down the front limiter straps.
next loosen up the rear shock spring till you have 1 inch of thread showing, put FRA adjuster bolt on medium. Now the track rear wheels will be about 8 inchs off the ground, all you have to do is remove the bolt from the transfer rods and start adding shims(plastic spacers) to the BOTTOM side of the rods, this will lower the back down and even it out, youll start to see the track sit flat from the drivers to the rear wheels, try and keep about a goal 1/2" clearance between the bottom of the drivers and the surface, this way you wont bend the driveshaft if you hit a bump. Youll fine tune the rear with the front ski shocks, the more you raise up the front the more the rear wheels will get closer to the ground, but if you add enough shims to the bottom of the rods it will pull them right down,so just get the front close and do the straps to keep from loosing the spring retainers when the front end will come up off the springs last.
this will be fairly stiff and offer only about 2-3 inchs of travel. youll only have about a 1/2 of gap on the top side of the transfer rods, but the sled will hook hard because more of the track sirface is touching the ground, penetrating the ice and providing traction.
Rear:, loosen up the front skid shock spring, then place a 4x4 block of wood under front of curve on rails/skid, set sled down on it and crank down the front limiter straps.
next loosen up the rear shock spring till you have 1 inch of thread showing, put FRA adjuster bolt on medium. Now the track rear wheels will be about 8 inchs off the ground, all you have to do is remove the bolt from the transfer rods and start adding shims(plastic spacers) to the BOTTOM side of the rods, this will lower the back down and even it out, youll start to see the track sit flat from the drivers to the rear wheels, try and keep about a goal 1/2" clearance between the bottom of the drivers and the surface, this way you wont bend the driveshaft if you hit a bump. Youll fine tune the rear with the front ski shocks, the more you raise up the front the more the rear wheels will get closer to the ground, but if you add enough shims to the bottom of the rods it will pull them right down,so just get the front close and do the straps to keep from loosing the spring retainers when the front end will come up off the springs last.
this will be fairly stiff and offer only about 2-3 inchs of travel. youll only have about a 1/2 of gap on the top side of the transfer rods, but the sled will hook hard because more of the track sirface is touching the ground, penetrating the ice and providing traction.
Maddogs700srx
VIP Member
mrviper700 said:Front, just loosen up the spring adjusters till it drops down where you want it, then use a small peice of old motorcycle tie down nylon strap, cut it to the length, and heat up a old screwdriver, melt a hole in each end for the bolts to go thru on the shock mounts, add a washer and your done.(but put the straps on last after you do the rear skid)
Rear:, loosen up the front skid shock spring, then place a 4x4 block of wood under front of curve on rails/skid, set sled down on it and crank down the front limiter straps.
next loosen up the rear shock spring till you have 1 inch of thread showing, put FRA adjuster bolt on medium. Now the track rear wheels will be about 8 inchs off the ground, all you have to do is remove the bolt from the transfer rods and start adding shims(plastic spacers) to the BOTTOM side of the rods, this will lower the back down and even it out, youll start to see the track sit flat from the drivers to the rear wheels, try and keep about a goal 1/2" clearance between the bottom of the drivers and the surface, this way you wont bend the driveshaft if you hit a bump. Youll fine tune the rear with the front ski shocks, the more you raise up the front the more the rear wheels will get closer to the ground, but if you add enough shims to the bottom of the rods it will pull them right down,so just get the front close and do the straps to keep from loosing the spring retainers when the front end will come up off the springs last.
this will be fairly stiff and offer only about 2-3 inchs of travel. youll only have about a 1/2 of gap on the top side of the transfer rods, but the sled will hook hard because more of the track sirface is touching the ground, penetrating the ice and providing traction.
Great explanation. Thanks!!!
where are you playing on the ice?
Maddogs700srx
VIP Member
Sunday there are some Drags on Webster Lake in Franklin NH. Later on in the year I'd also like to run up at Little Diamond Pond at Coleman State Park.