M10 = new srx

darkangel

New member
Joined
Dec 4, 2006
Messages
36
Location
MN.
Just installed a used m10 that I bought off eBay into my 98 srx . The seller had went thru and freshened it up and had just rebuilt the center fox and rear ohlin shocks.

After the initial setup and shake down run...all I can say is WOW...best $590. I've spent! :letitsnow

I wish I had bought this skid sooner, becaue I just spent $460+s/h 2 weeks ago on the Ohlins 36pc from Bruce at Pioneer Performance. Nice shock, but still does give the proaction skid anywhere near the ride of the M10. So watch the F/S section for it and save some $$.

I had concerns about how the m10 would match up with my current front end setup. I have the stock Ohlins with the PP shock extensions and shocks mounts to raise the front 1.25". After yesterday's ride, my worries were dismissed, very happy with the match.

Install was simple and took about a hour an 1/2. I had to enlarge the front mounting holes on the srx, where the oem skid had bolted (m10 bolt is larger), and the seller provided the rear mounting plates.

The plate(2" x 3.25") he provided had 3 holes in it and it used my rear skid mounting hole for 1 bolt location. So I just had bolt the mount in the rear stock location and then used the mounting plate as my template to drill 1 bolt hole in front of the stock mounting location for the m10 and 1 above the stock location for extra support.

The M10 with my initial setup also gives excellent weight transfer. With a 1.25 ripsaw on semi packed trails, I can pinch the throttle and get about 3 inches of ski lift while it launches out of the hole, combined with excellent ski pressure on the twisty sections.

If your looking for mid level $$ upgrade for the srx, pick up a nice used m10. Money well spent and gives new life to your old sled!
 
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and when you sell the old sled you KEEP the m10. i look at it as a investment in sleding , not a loss when you sell it . you can always have it
 
I 'll be it keeping for awhile, my srx only has 2800 miles on it and sx has 2100. My M10 came the A.C.E unit and motor control that FAST no longer makes. So I just removed the motor and gear, threaded a 14mm nut onto the shaft and made it into the M-10 JACK.

This makes it super fast and easy to adjust the fra on the trail now!
 
would you mind taking some pics and posting or sending them to twofishy4u@hotmail.com
What year m10, are they the same width? cost of brackets?
I'd love to put one in as I have a bad back but it may be more cost effective to purchase a different sled......some poos had these from the factory.
 
I installed an M-10 skid in my sx about 5 years ago. I agree it is worth every penny and is the main reason I still have the sled. I also extended my front shocks and with the sag in the rear set correctly the sled still handles well and rides a #$%&* of a lot better. I also shaved my rear coupler blocks for a little more transfer. ;)!
 
darkangel said:
I had to enlarge the front mounting holes on the srx, where the oem skid had bolted (m10 bolt is larger), and the seller provided the rear mounting plates.

I purchased the installation kit from FAST for the pro-action chassis for my install. It included a complete full length aluminum support plate for each side of the tunnel. and required the removal of the stock internal pro-action front mount plates. The front mount on my M-10 does not use the stock Pro-action mount hole, instead it mounts to 2 internal aluminum braces that fasten to the tunnel with 2 bolts on either side. I think the M-10 requires these additional full length tunnel supports, if these were not installed I would watch for flex.

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh30/vmaxx4/P1000589-36-36.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh30/vmaxx4/P1000592-36-36.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh30/vmaxx4/P1000598-36-36.jpg
 
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This is my fourth season on mine and I couldn't be happier. My sled has the maxx performance wide front end kit,adjustable shock brackets, Works shocks and C&A skis. My sled was quite hard on the forearms when I got it, then I replaced the steering arm bracket with the sealed bearing setup from Maxx perf. Too bad Maxx is out of buisness because my sled is loaded with their stuff.
I ruined a couple sets of M10 aluminum brackets (front of skid) because the allen head bolt worked its way out and oblonged the holes. The last time I put it together I used locking nuts and blue locktite and haven't had a problem.
 
Great post I have been debating on which skid to go with Boivin or M-10. Sounds like M-10 would be good for my 98 MSRX. All my buddies are riding 07 or 08 poos and Artic cats telling me to give it up and buy a new Rev 800 and forget about trying to do anything to a 98 sled.... More I read posts the more I think tricking out a solid sled like the SRX is the way to go especially since a new sled is $10,000 + and so what if a guy has a little more trouble in deep powder ! Spend $3000 in mods and you got a sleeper eating up new stock 700s and such !

Great forum learning tonnes, but getting any work done here !

:rocks:
 
SRX M10 said:
I ruined a couple sets of M10 aluminum brackets (front of skid) because the allen head bolt worked its way out and oblonged the holes. The last time I put it together I used locking nuts and blue locktite and haven't had a problem.

I've seen this on more than one sled using the supplied universal fit m10 brackets. Worst I've seen was where it ob-longed out the holes on the side of the tunnel, making them useless.

My m10 had the correct front bushings supplied for the proper width and fit so went in as snug as the stock skid into the front mount bracket location. So i did not need the universal aluminum brackets. Seller had it on doo and then on his viper.

The m10 I picked up is the pre-2001, metric version and they are the purple ones, not pretty :wink: but the ride more than makes up for it! On 12hr shifts now, but will try and a get a pic up Sunday.

Forgot to add...with the metric version m10 you cannot upgrade to FAST's new Wave, becuse of the changes to the skid on the newer post-2001 standard m10's, but you can add the M10 Jack.
 
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opps101 said:
.....I think tricking out a solid sled like the SRX is the way to go especially since a new sled is $10,000 + and so what if a guy has a little more trouble in deep powder ! Spend $3000 in mods and you got a sleeper eating up new stock 700s and such !

Great forum learning tonnes, but getting any work done here !

:rocks:

I was in the same dilemma. I have 2 sleds in mint condition a 98 srx700 and 97 sx700 and was debating on selling them and buying a new one at $8900. But after some thought and a lot of reading on here, I decided to try the upgrade route..and boy am I glad I did!

I bought Viper shocks for the rear and front for the sx. For the srx a 2" bar riser, new 1.25 ripsaw, used m10, pp extension for front ohlins and 1.25" front shock mounts. All in all I have just over $1400 invested for 2 updated long travel sleds.

A :wel: savings of $6500 to use for vacation and towards a new vstar 1300 this summer!

The savings will increase after I sell the new ohlin rear shock I just bought. Thought about swapping out the viper shock on the SX, but that sled is just a back up loaner that girlfriend rides once awhile.
 
Great, thanks for support, I will be the first to plead ignorance. What is pp extension for your front shocks and the 1.25" front shock mounts. You need the pp extensions and new mounts for the Ohlins front shocks, would that be correct? Are you still running the stock 136" track on the M-10 skid? I posted on the subject of longer track for better floatation a few days ago and everyone basically said to go with a 151" at least. Just waiting on pricing.... and not letting my wife find out ! LOL
 
No, kept the skid at 121, not a lot of deep powder riding here in northern MN, but a longer skid would improve on ride qaulity on the trail.

Click on "front suspension" and scroll to bottom of page for the "OHLINS SHOCK EXTENSIONS" they give you about an extra inch of drop out into the bumps.
http://www.pioneerperformance.net/

The front mounts I bought came off ebay and raise the front a 1.25" to even out the front of the sled to the rear. Tried the stock mount flip & swap, but still was not happy with the height and feel becase they only rasied the front 3/4".

Mounts came from this seller and they fit the Ohlins shocks perfectly!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yama...009QQitemZ190193682900QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

You will have reset your chamber and toe after these upgrades...
 
reading all this makes me wonder..... I put Pioneer long travel rear shocks on my srx....should I raise the front end too with these brackets???? Seems ok riding now but if this would make it better I'd do it!!!!
 
SRX M10 said:
This is my fourth season on mine and I couldn't be happier. My sled has the maxx performance wide front end kit,adjustable shock brackets, Works shocks and C&A skis. My sled was quite hard on the forearms when I got it, then I replaced the steering arm bracket with the sealed bearing setup from Maxx perf. Too bad Maxx is out of buisness because my sled is loaded with their stuff.

Your sleds sounds great. ;)! I have been watching for a wide front kit in the classifieds and on e-bay, not many out there used for sale and I'm not ready to spend the cash on a new one. :(
 
davessrx said:
reading all this makes me wonder..... I put Pioneer long travel rear shocks on my srx....should I raise the front end too with these brackets???? Seems ok riding now but if this would make it better I'd do it!!!!

One thing to keep in mind if you extend your Ohlins front shock rods is that now you are limited to the amount of spring pre-load your adjuster nuts will allow, (you run out of thread). As far as raising the front end, I would ask is it bottoming hard now and you want more clearance? or now that your rear is raised you would like to "level the sled"? I have the "ride sag" in my M-10 set at about 3-4" so my sled levels out nicely when riding. I like retaining that "low" front feel for the smooth /fast trails. If I raise my front any more, I'll widen it also.
 
I was told by fast that if you are doing the 121 to 136 on an M10 for improved ride that you are wasting your $.
 
Hey darkangel you can add me to the list of guys who oblonged their tunnel holes. I made some 3"x4" steel plates for the outside near my footwells. It fixed the problem and covered alot of sin.
 
SRX M10 said:
Hey darkangel you can add me to the list of guys who oblonged their tunnel holes. I made some 3"x4" steel plates for the outside near my footwells. It fixed the problem and covered alot of sin.

out of sight out of mind..lol

As for the concern about pre-load or lack of with the extensions. I have mine set about a turn stiffer then what PP recommends for a starting point when using the extensions. So that still leaves plenty of room to go with more pre-load if I choose.

For me, I have the front ohlins clickers at 3 from softest, spring set as stated above. 4" of sag in the rear on the m10. When I lift the rear of the sled and slowly lower it till the front part of skid touches, this leaves the rear of skid about a 1/2" above the ground. Rear ohlin clicker set at 2 from softest.

This is what feels best for my riding style and current trail conditions and may not be rite for someone else.

Here is a link that I used as a guide, in conjunction with FAST's setup info, to help dial in my m10:
http://amerysnowmobileclub.com/tech tip M 10.doc
 
darkangel said:
I 'll be it keeping for awhile, my srx only has 2800 miles on it and sx has 2100. My M10 came the A.C.E unit and motor control that FAST no longer makes. So I just removed the motor and gear, threaded a 14mm nut onto the shaft and made it into the M-10 JACK.

This makes it super fast and easy to adjust the fra on the trail now!

that is a window regulator motor, you could go to a parts store and probly match up the body.

SRX M10 said:
This is my fourth season on mine and I couldn't be happier. My sled has the maxx performance wide front end kit,adjustable shock brackets, Works shocks and C&A skis. My sled was quite hard on the forearms when I got it, then I replaced the steering arm bracket with the sealed bearing setup from Maxx perf. Too bad Maxx is out of buisness because my sled is loaded with their stuff.
I ruined a couple sets of M10 aluminum brackets (front of skid) because the allen head bolt worked its way out and oblonged the holes. The last time I put it together I used locking nuts and blue locktite and haven't had a problem.

you can just buy the shaft and spacers for a rx-1/apex mount kit for 38$ and you dont need the side arms, bolts in your stock front hole. much faster installation. if you are having trouble with the 8 shaped holes, a friend told me a great fix. drill a hole through the side bracket into your handle bar hoop where it bolts to the tunnel. this gives it a great reinforced backer. It also is the correct width to hold the head of the bolt when tightening.
 
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BETHEVIPER said:
that is a window regulator motor, you could go to a parts store and probly match up the body.

Mine still works, but the seller said he always had problems with it holding up when riding aggressively. I aso called FAST to get a jack handle and told them why and what I needed it for, and they even recommended removing, because they said the ACE was never meant for the yami, do to not enuf voltage output at the time the came ACE out.




BETHEVIPER said:
you can just buy the shaft and spacers for a rx-1/apex mount kit for 38$ and you dont need the side arms, bolts in your stock front hole. much faster installation.......

Awesome piece of info for mounting the M10 in the stock location!
 


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