viper mtn
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- Feb 16, 2006
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Anyone install a set of tempa flows/attaac with this motor? I have a Price 1000cc Kit with an SRX bottom end and CDI.....stock carbs with a 2mm overbore. I run from 2500 to 8000ft and I am looking to solve my jetting issues. Any advice would be great!
Thanks
Thanks
viper mtn
New member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2006
- Messages
- 22
Any Help
Anyone? Anyone? Anyone have experience jetting this motor at elevation? Thanks for any advice!
Anyone? Anyone? Anyone have experience jetting this motor at elevation? Thanks for any advice!
tempa blow and a mod motor=KABOOM!
what are your jetting issues?
what are your jetting issues?
viper mtn
New member
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- Feb 16, 2006
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I was hoping to get a general (re) starting point for jetting this motor. I purchased it last year from a guy out east and I ride in the western states. Most of my riding is from 5-8k ft. I don't want to blow this motor up as the cost of repairs is above my budget and knowledge level!!!
He are the specs. 1000cc Price....completely re-built by Mark at Price. Original owner bought the kit....put together poorly....and KABOOM. SRX wiring and CDI, with a gutted air box, stock carbs overbored 2mm, V-force 3 and JAWS pipes. The Oil Injection is still hooked up, but only supplies back to the crank bearings. I am running 40:1 yamalube pre-mix. I am at the office right now and I don't remember what I have the carbs currently jetted at.
Last year, going off some specs from my dealer, I got mixed results. The sled seemed to be running rich, yet my plug colors varied. My pistons were very clean....showing that I was running rich, but my EGTs read high. I was hoping to find someone with knowledge of a base starting point on the jetting, so I could start over again and try to get this sled dialed.
Thanks for the advice, as it is greatly appreciated. I am a novice tuner, but it makes no sense bringing this sled into a local dealer, as they have zero experience with this engine.
He are the specs. 1000cc Price....completely re-built by Mark at Price. Original owner bought the kit....put together poorly....and KABOOM. SRX wiring and CDI, with a gutted air box, stock carbs overbored 2mm, V-force 3 and JAWS pipes. The Oil Injection is still hooked up, but only supplies back to the crank bearings. I am running 40:1 yamalube pre-mix. I am at the office right now and I don't remember what I have the carbs currently jetted at.
Last year, going off some specs from my dealer, I got mixed results. The sled seemed to be running rich, yet my plug colors varied. My pistons were very clean....showing that I was running rich, but my EGTs read high. I was hoping to find someone with knowledge of a base starting point on the jetting, so I could start over again and try to get this sled dialed.
Thanks for the advice, as it is greatly appreciated. I am a novice tuner, but it makes no sense bringing this sled into a local dealer, as they have zero experience with this engine.
Let me make this easy, first off the best thing you can do is take a peice of black duct tape and place it over your egt screen, because those numbers dont mean a thing till the sled is jetted correctly reading the plugs and piston wash. The guy who placed the probes or even the type of probes will make a differance in the readings youll get, move the probe a 1/4" and it can be hundreds of degrees differnt reading, so take that out of the equation.YOU CANT JET A SLED BY READING EGT'S, your just chasing your tail!
Now leaving that "rich" set up in begin to work your way thru the carb circuits, for the idle and low speed circuits, youll be adjusting the fuel screws and the pilot jet size,1.) does it idle cleanly? does it take off smoothly without bogging from a dead stop to wide open hit on the throttle?
next youll be working on the mid range circuit, this is your needle settings, take the sled for a good 500-600ft flat run at half throttle, kill the ignition and pull the plugs, are the plugs dry,and light brown color? is the center electrode silver across the tip of the core? is is silver on the edge and darker to black oin the center? what do the piston tops look like?
then onto te main jets, same practice used here, run a good 600-700 feet long this time wide open, kill ignition and pull the plugs, inspect plugs and piston wash.
after you get it jetted correctly then remove the tape and see what your egt temps are, you might be very suprosed at what it will be, it does not matter as to the temp as the probe placement and type will make the numbers differnt, but what does matter is you know know the temps for which your engine is jetted at, and you can set your alarm light to your settings then.
All you need is a little patience and you can tune the sled in perfect yourself, you dont have to be some wizard tuner to do it, take your time and go thru the circuits 1 at a time.
Now leaving that "rich" set up in begin to work your way thru the carb circuits, for the idle and low speed circuits, youll be adjusting the fuel screws and the pilot jet size,1.) does it idle cleanly? does it take off smoothly without bogging from a dead stop to wide open hit on the throttle?
next youll be working on the mid range circuit, this is your needle settings, take the sled for a good 500-600ft flat run at half throttle, kill the ignition and pull the plugs, are the plugs dry,and light brown color? is the center electrode silver across the tip of the core? is is silver on the edge and darker to black oin the center? what do the piston tops look like?
then onto te main jets, same practice used here, run a good 600-700 feet long this time wide open, kill ignition and pull the plugs, inspect plugs and piston wash.
after you get it jetted correctly then remove the tape and see what your egt temps are, you might be very suprosed at what it will be, it does not matter as to the temp as the probe placement and type will make the numbers differnt, but what does matter is you know know the temps for which your engine is jetted at, and you can set your alarm light to your settings then.
All you need is a little patience and you can tune the sled in perfect yourself, you dont have to be some wizard tuner to do it, take your time and go thru the circuits 1 at a time.
Last edited:
Mac
Member
If you have never done any tuning one tool you will need is the light required to see the piston wash on top of the piston thru the spark plug hole. Its a special light from STEELMAN. http://www.steelman-js.com/html/bend-a-lights.htm What ever you do don't buy the cheap POS from Sno Bungy. Mr Viper can tell you what to look for on the piston surface. Some guys have trouble on a sunny day tring to see the piston surface. If you have trouble you might need to be inside your garage or trailer where its dark. Happy tuning.
viper mtn
New member
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- Feb 16, 2006
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Thanks guys. Looks like I will start from point one and go from there. Make the runs, make the checks, and lean down accordingly.
taylzee
New member
Just to put the egt thing in perspective...I've seen EGTs read Melting hot temps on a fat motor and 1150 ish and she burned up. I didn't even put mine on until I got the jetting proper to start with.
toydoc
Member
All good info above, I'd also add that some jetting issues (rich, then lean) can be caused by different barometric pressure at the mouth of the carb, then float bowl.
If the float vent tubes hang next to the carb it feels underhood barometric pressure. That pressure can raise and drop with wind and speed (hoods pack air/pressure). Air box vents to outside neutral pressure. It doesn't tend to raise and drop, just feels true barometric pressue.
When the float bowl pressure is higher then inlet pressre, the carbs enrichen, less pressre is lean condition. I drill 6 small holes in the air box and run all the float bowl vent tubes into the air box. I'd just keep the size of hole a tad under the the vent line size for a tight fit. Then you know underhood pressure is not causing a jetting issue. I like an air box, and keep them on if pos.
If the float vent tubes hang next to the carb it feels underhood barometric pressure. That pressure can raise and drop with wind and speed (hoods pack air/pressure). Air box vents to outside neutral pressure. It doesn't tend to raise and drop, just feels true barometric pressue.
When the float bowl pressure is higher then inlet pressre, the carbs enrichen, less pressre is lean condition. I drill 6 small holes in the air box and run all the float bowl vent tubes into the air box. I'd just keep the size of hole a tad under the the vent line size for a tight fit. Then you know underhood pressure is not causing a jetting issue. I like an air box, and keep them on if pos.