First off, I'm new here, so if I'm posting this in the wrong section or doing something wrong in general LMK.
My dads sled is a 99 mtn max with ekholm tunnel, rolled case, and whatever else goes along with that setup. I don't know that much about sled, but his brake is overheating like crazy. If you ride it hard for more than 3 or 4 minutes the brake lever turns rock solid and the caliper begins to clamp more and more on the rotor (I'm assuming the fluid is getting way to hot, maybe boiling) creating even more heat.
We have bled the system several times using dot 3 fluid (not sure if thats the right fluid for this application) and it has new brake pads. The rotor has been on the sled for an unknown amount of time. I'm not sure if the rotor is stock, but I do know its vented.
The rotor has some side to side slop, as in you can wiggle it with your hand. It also has some rotational slop, however I'm thinking a small bit of slop rotationaly is fine. I'm assuming it is not normal to be able to wiggle the rotor any other direction. I'm thinking that this slop is causing the pads to drag on the rotor and create waay to much heat.
I don't know shit about snowmobiles, so could really use some help. What do you guys think? Wrong brake fluid? Maybe run some motul blue? toasted rotor or bearings somewhere? Has this kind of thing ever happened to anyone?
Thanks a lot for any help, this issue eventually cause the brakes to lock up completely until things cool down.
My dads sled is a 99 mtn max with ekholm tunnel, rolled case, and whatever else goes along with that setup. I don't know that much about sled, but his brake is overheating like crazy. If you ride it hard for more than 3 or 4 minutes the brake lever turns rock solid and the caliper begins to clamp more and more on the rotor (I'm assuming the fluid is getting way to hot, maybe boiling) creating even more heat.
We have bled the system several times using dot 3 fluid (not sure if thats the right fluid for this application) and it has new brake pads. The rotor has been on the sled for an unknown amount of time. I'm not sure if the rotor is stock, but I do know its vented.
The rotor has some side to side slop, as in you can wiggle it with your hand. It also has some rotational slop, however I'm thinking a small bit of slop rotationaly is fine. I'm assuming it is not normal to be able to wiggle the rotor any other direction. I'm thinking that this slop is causing the pads to drag on the rotor and create waay to much heat.
I don't know shit about snowmobiles, so could really use some help. What do you guys think? Wrong brake fluid? Maybe run some motul blue? toasted rotor or bearings somewhere? Has this kind of thing ever happened to anyone?
Thanks a lot for any help, this issue eventually cause the brakes to lock up completely until things cool down.
deeppowder
Member
Check on the adjustment of the mechanical parking brake. If the chaincase was off then the cables might not have been put back on right.
I'll look, but I don't believe it has a parking brake.....Is it common to delete when modding these sleds? Where would the parking brake be actuated at? The chaincase was off recently I believe, so maybe that is a problem. Thanks for the input!!
deeppowder
Member
Park brake is a lever operated cable, the lever is at the left hand grip. If the park brake is on the lever partially covers the hand grip.
I would think that if everything is getting hot you would loose braking power i.e. brake fade. Its happen to me on my 700SX.
Maybe the pistons in the caliper are sticking. Rebuild the caliper.
Tod
Maybe the pistons in the caliper are sticking. Rebuild the caliper.
Tod
The brake works fine, doesn't seem to fade at all. It gets hot pretty fast and then starts to drag more and more on the rotor. Eventually locking everything up. WHen this happens, the brake lever stays in the out position, which basically means that the brake fluid is expanding and pushing the pistons in.
I just confirmed that there isn't a parking brake. It was deleted when the case was rolled forward.
The pistons and brake seem to operate fine when its cold. They tighten and release, but the pistons only pull back a milimeter or two when you release the brake. How far does everyone elses pads pull away from the rotor? I imagine that it shouldn't be very much, but maybe as things heat up its causing the pistons to not retract/stick more?
How much play is acceptable in the rotor and the shaft its on? Or do you guys know of a place to buy a shop manual on cd?
I really appreciate the help!
I just confirmed that there isn't a parking brake. It was deleted when the case was rolled forward.
The pistons and brake seem to operate fine when its cold. They tighten and release, but the pistons only pull back a milimeter or two when you release the brake. How far does everyone elses pads pull away from the rotor? I imagine that it shouldn't be very much, but maybe as things heat up its causing the pistons to not retract/stick more?
How much play is acceptable in the rotor and the shaft its on? Or do you guys know of a place to buy a shop manual on cd?
I really appreciate the help!
Boondocker-1
New member
Common problem in the mountains is snow building up on the end of the brake lever while you are riding...
I put some ATE super blue fluid in it and things seem to have toned down a bit. Unless you ride the sled extremely hard it doesn't heat up enough to cause problems anymore. Now that it is rideable we'll order a new master cylinder and rebuild the caliper to try and further improve the situation. So basically, some real nice fluid didn't fix whatever is the problem, but it seems to be a band aid. Thanks for all the help! I'll post back up here when the master cylinder and calipers are gone through and let ya know if that completely gets rid of the problem.
Boondocker-1
New member
If you get air in the line it will boil the fluid and cause the brake to apply.