I have an 80 Enticer, 340cc. Only has 1000 km's, Track is in great condition, but the 1980 track design get's terrible traction, expecially on ice.
Can this be studded?
or should I add traction screws. New track?
Do I need tunnel protectors?
dealing with the poor traction is quite a RPITA.
Can this be studded?
or should I add traction screws. New track?
Do I need tunnel protectors?
dealing with the poor traction is quite a RPITA.
opsled
Active member
Yes you can stud them and it will make a big difference on ice. I would go with 62 dowm the center (2 per window) and you will need tunnel protectors. Get some good push through carbide trail studs. My choice would be Woodys Gold with round aluminum backers. Stay away from T-nut or screw in style studs. They don't last and can screw up your track. You will probably need to add some carbide runners to your skis as well to be able to turn on ice. With 62 studs and 4" of carbide up front that thing will be like a slot car on ice.
Good luck, opsled
Good luck, opsled
snopro
New member
if your only running on ice, t-nuts are good studs as they are steel and can be re sharpened. i use them on my oval race sled and have never had one pull through. they are not good studs for trail use however.
if your trail riding, go with carbide tipped push through studs like opsled said.
if your trail riding, go with carbide tipped push through studs like opsled said.
ws6transam
New member
One question: What's a tunnel protector? Go easy - I'm new to snowmobiles. However I also have a 1980 Enticer 340 with poor traction, as well as a 1980 Excel V with the same track and same problem.
BuckSwashler
New member
reverse the track... makes a big difference
opsled
Active member
ws6transam said:One question: What's a tunnel protector? Go easy - I'm new to snowmobiles. However I also have a 1980 Enticer 340 with poor traction, as well as a 1980 Excel V with the same track and same problem.
They are strips of aluminum or plastic that are riveted into the top of the tunnel in line with the track windows. They keep the studs from hitting and damaging the tunnel when riding. The need to be thicker than the distance the studs stick out past the track lugs to be effective. The pics are of an upside down Enticer tunnel with and without aluminum protectors. The seat and fuel tank need to be removed to install them. They are drilled in and riveted through the top of the tunnel.
opsled
Attachments
opsled
Active member
BuckSwashler said:reverse the track... makes a big difference
That does work to an extent in snow but won't do much for ice. Your track will also wear faster and you will have less braking ability with it reversed.
opsled
What do you guys think of the traction screws?
They screw into the lugs on the track..
I forget who makes them.................
They screw into the lugs on the track..
I forget who makes them.................
opsled
Active member
the blur said:What do you guys think of the traction screws?
They screw into the lugs on the track..
I forget who makes them.................
They are all right for certian applications but your track isn't designed to use them. They will not last long and will likely pull out and tear up your lugs. I won't use them.
opsled
ws6transam
New member
Okay, that makes a lot of sense, Opsled. Thanks. That doesn't look too hard.
Maim
Super Moderator
i have seen guys use a legnth of hyfax for tunnel protectors. old will work as well as new.
ws6transam
New member
Maim said:i have seen guys use a legnth of hyfax for tunnel protectors. old will work as well as new.
You know, that is exactly what I was just thinking, since I jsut replaced the Hyfax on the Excel V. The old ones are still sticking up out the top of the garbage can.