How to differentiate a long travel from

fleet man

fleet man

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Oct 1, 2006
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Manawa Wisconsin
a regular proaction skid. I have removed the skid from my 700 and am wondering if the po had replaced it with a long travel thus giving me problems with traction as the skid geometry is different. No matter what I do the front if the skid contacts the snow first. If I pick up the rear of the sled so that the track just clears the ground the rear of the track "was" almost 2" higher. Also the front of the sled sits low compared to the back. But within stock specs. I have raised the front by cranking the shock springs all the way as far as they go and it has helped a lot. I am thinking that I have now raised the front of the sled and it is has removed a lot of the pivot effect on the front of the skid. Is there a way to tell the difference with the skid out? Such as shock length, arm length of the transfer rods or something? I now have about an 1" of gap at the top of the transfer rods and the front springs cranked. It is much better at weight transfer but I think it could be better.

Does this make any sense, or am I barking up the wrong tree?


I guess what I'm getting at is this. If the po had replaced the skid with a long travel and did not change the front shock mounts to compensate would that give me the symptoms I'm describing? The sled would pivot on the front of the skid very easily before I did the above adjustments. I mean like one handed grabbing the rear bumper and walk it around in circles. After the spring tightening it is somewhat harder to do. I also have reduced the clearence at the back of the track to about an inch now. I thought that when the rear of the sled was lifted enough for the track to just clear the ground, it was to be parallel to the ground with both the front and rear contacting at the same time.
 
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no handling issues. Traction... This thing does not hook up. By me raising the front it has gotten better. It seems to me that there is too much weight being carried on the front of the skid. Henceforth I'm only getting traction of the front half of the track. If I pick up the rear of the sled the rear of the track is an inch off the ground before the front comes off the ground.
 
They are adjustable with a blue adjusting collar. I have the upper gap at an inch. That helped somewhat also. Although that seems to be an extreme gap amount.

This is not too clear but the skid is out right now.

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If I remember right, the rear of my SRX skid was off the ground when setting without someone being on it. Once you set on the sled, the front would compress.So I would say yours is normall, and most likely still short travel.
Also, when you tighten your ski shock springs , you usually lose traction because it takes pressure off the front of the rear skid.
I dont beleive traction was a strong point of the pro-action skid. If you want to hook up , set your transfer rods to full transfer, tighten your front skid spring and loosen your ski springs. She wont turn for SH!T , but it will hook up better.
A 1 1/4" track will do wonders for traction in 90% of trail conditions.
 
Sno-Xr said:
Also, when you tighten your ski shock springs , you usually lose traction because it takes pressure off the front of the rear skid.

set your transfer rods to full transfer, tighten your front skid spring and loosen your ski springs. She wont turn for SH!T , but it will hook up better.

A 1 1/4" track will do wonders for traction in 90% of trail conditions.
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See thats what isn't making any sense. I "DO" have an 1 1/4" track and I tightened the front suspension shock springs and it "did" help the transfer issue. I loosened the front skid spring next and that helped a bit more. I then increased the transfer rod gap to an inch and that also improved traction. Everything is bass ackwards.

I have the rear shock set to softest spring tension, Proper sag,
FRA softest,
Transfer rod top gap 1",
bottom spacers removed,
front skid spring about medium tension,
limiter straps at 15mm,
Front suspension tighter then normal to raise the front.

With that setup when I grab a grip full of throttle the front comes up, (light on the skis as I can turn 'em and still go straight) for about 3-5 seconds then she just lights the track up and the front slowly falls back down. I can feel it get wishy washy in the tail.

I got to be missing something here.

Edit: After rereading this it seems that when she "comes on the pipes" she just overpowers the traction available. I think I may be fighting a losing battle here. I'm a lightweight too so I suppose that don't help matters any either.
 
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I am no expert but I think you need to gain weight. If the Skis are coming up then you are getting weight transfer. My thin buddy all ways stands at rear of tunnel to get more traction then drops as it gets moving :rofl:


I dont have that problem. Im 6'2 300
SANY0110.jpg
 
gbic1 said:
I am no expert but I think you need to gain weight.
Click to expand...

I keep trying but never happens!!! :whine: ;):D :beer: So whats the secret? :dunno:

I think I'm going to have to go with 8 tooth drivers and stud the crap out if the track.

Don't get me wrong, The skis aren't coming off the snow a foot or anything, I just know she's getting light in the front. I also hear that this track is supposed to be the best thing since buttered noodles, but I still think there is no substitute for a studded track.
 
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Loosen up you straps to about 10mm or less!!! Also a set of transfer rod will help because you can get the transfer and then tighten them up and ride away without putting it in the woods!!! I use mine all the time. That ripsaw is a great track but with the kind of power you are making you should be running studs, or just deal with the track spinning. I know what you are going through I am 165...in my riding gear:)
 
Riverrunner, I think you are right. Just the combination of me going 160lb's geared up and the hp coming from under the hood the unstudded track just ain't gonna cut it. I have tried every combination of adjustments there is and this is the best I have gotten. Way better than when I first rode it. It was undriveable. The rear was everywhere but where it was supposed to be. Now at least I can use it. But it would be nice to use all those ponies under the hood though. Right now it's like a top fuel dragster engine in a go cart. :rofl: I can't even let her wind out because I can't stop! Not like my studded 600 anyways. I overshot a few corners yesterday.
 
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Yeah, there is no substitute for studs, but I have about 115-120 hp and I run a ripsaw with a proaction rear skid, almost stock other then the fra in the soft position and the transfer rods and I don't seem to have that bad off a time hooking up!! Right now the trails are icy....its just a fact of life:) Get some transfer rods and drink more beer!!!!! Save on the garage and trailer floor...LOL...My 2 cents!!!!
 
If your riding in marginal snow or icy conditions, Studs are a must. The ripsaw is a good all around performer on hardpack, but rubber doesnt hook-up on ice no matter how much HP you have. A 250 Bravo without studs will bake the track on ice!! LOL
 
I hear you Sno-Xr

Well, I am looking for some 8 tooth drivers. Anyone got a set?

I'm just going to install those and replace all the bearings on the drive shaft and suspension and install 144 studs on center as long as the track is out. It's new so it should last a while. I just don't think I'm going to get all the ponies to the snow no matter what I do without studs. It's just a matter of my weight and the hp of the sled.
 
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