Lowering suspension for speed

D

DHSRX

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Joined
Dec 3, 2003
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Sudbury, Ontario, Canada
I need a little advise. I lowered my front and rear suspension on my SRX. The front of the rear suspension touches the ground first while the back sits 1/4 to 3/8 above. I know I need to get the rear suspension to sit flatter. So far this is what I have done:
Loosened the two front shocks, so the spring is just loose when the assembly is off the sled.
Rear:
Tightened the limiter straps as far as my deep socked would go (still 1/2" of threads left)
Tightened the front shock preload all the way.
Moved the full rate adjuster to the softer setting A (not sure if this is the best setting)
Loosened the preload off the rear shock till 1/2" of threads left
I think I should set the full rate adjuster to C (hardest setting) and tighten the front limiter straps the rest of the way.
What do you think.
Thanks for your help.
 
dh are we taking your truck or mine ? if your on my bus i would like to load tonight and leave early in the morning ....hey if you can get a pair of pants .... lol..why dont you come for a pop at the hill billy garage tonight .
 
Lets take your truck. I have a tono cover on the box of my truck. Pick me up in the morning.
I still need to figure out my suspension and put my sled back together tonight. If you are finished with BL's SRX EATER (formerly known American Standard model super flusher) You and BL should stop in for a pop.
 
I would recommend borrowing a deeper socket, and crank your limiters as much as you can and see how it sits. If that still does not allow it to sit flat, pull out the suspension, remove one limiter strap, drill new holes in the strap, then put it back on to allow you to crank it down more. Once that one has been installed, repeat for the other side. It is alot easier doing one at a time because there is alot of tension, and you won't be able to compress the shock enough by hand to re-attach the strap. Good luck. The front of my rear skid has been lowered only by the limiter straps, and the W-arm is about 1/4" from touching the rails :) I had to do one strap at a time with mine, drill one, re-install, take off the other, drill and re-install, the do the other again. It took a few times to get it low enough.
 
Thanks Valin, I'll get those straps tightened right down to the bottom. Should I set the full rate adjuster to the hardest setting?
Good luck this weekend in the Bay
 
i hope for your sake that valin's advice is good enough to beat the baby 600.....oh i would stop in for a pop but not too keen on seing a man with no pants ......i would prefer loading all the sleds tonight .....
 
DHSRX said:
Tightened the front shock preload all the way.
Click to expand...
just a question, but do you really want the front preload at max with the limiters tightened all the way? I would have thought 1/2 to 1/4 would be better, but I'm just asking?
 
It really makes no difference. You are radar running on tabletop ice. The front shock is really not alot of concern......it's more of just a pivot point. Ride height when radar running is basically the only concern, with just enough transfer to plant the rear, without pulling the front way up in the air. Roll onto the throttle very easy, so you do not spin like a moron off the line like most of the kids that go there. All that does is ruin the starting line for the rest, and overshift your clutches.
 
valin said:
I would recommend borrowing a deeper socket, and crank your limiters as much as you can and see how it sits. If that still does not allow it to sit flat, pull out the suspension, remove one limiter strap, drill new holes in the strap, then put it back on to allow you to crank it down more. Once that one has been installed, repeat for the other side. It is alot easier doing one at a time because there is alot of tension, and you won't be able to compress the shock enough by hand to re-attach the strap. Good luck. The front of my rear skid has been lowered only by the limiter straps, and the W-arm is about 1/4" from touching the rails :) I had to do one strap at a time with mine, drill one, re-install, take off the other, drill and re-install, the do the other again. It took a few times to get it low enough.
Click to expand...

Valin, I totaly agree with you when I was running the stock suspension on my SRX I did the same thing too the straps for the ice. One other thing I also did was chain the rear of the suspension down also so it only had about 3" to 4" of travel in it. this also helps with weight transfer and picking up the skis to far off the ice. I learn that from running on the asphault with it.

Hank
 

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At the events that we race in, the stock classes state that we are unable to lower the snowmobiles by means of a chain or strap that was not present on the snowmobile at the date of manufacture.
 
When I raced Cross Country I had the same problem. The rear of the skid was Kicked up. If I remember correctly your rear shock has too much pre-load. Check to make sure your transfere rods aren't bottomed out. Since I didn't have money to buy a shock and spring I borrowed a SX spring and chained my shock so that it didn't have full travel. You may be able to just loosen your spring and chain your shock.
 
Valin,

You are right about the chain I race in the winter in CMSA now changing back to the name NSSR. In Stock class all you can do is tighten up the straps and play with spring tension. The rear of the sled must be with in 2" of stock ride height. But in Improved stock you can use chains and straps and move the suspention up or down in the tunnel, it must be with in 3" of stock location and have a minimum of 2" of travel.
 
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