sledrider_ny
New member
Has anyone done this? If so do you recommend it? Also I'm still stock on jetting but was about to go down to 142.5's. It says to go up one jet size if you do this. Maybe I could do it and stick with stock jetting? This is on a 98 XTC 700 by the way.
I would leave the arbox, its mainly a mod that would be done with porting and pipes to get the gains, if you do the thin head gasket, reeds and silencer bore then drop the mains to 145 in 1 and 143.8 in 2 & 3
sledrider_ny
New member
Reeds were done today. Silencer actually last season. Clutching is complete as of today. Now just the head gasket and re-jetting. Figured I'd ask about the air box while everything is out. I'll skip that then. I'm gonna squeeze her for all shes got though! Thanks
Vince
Vince
98srx6
New member
You should put a campolast ripsaw or 9818 track on that 700, you will love the difference.
I agree with 98srx6, with all that new found power, traction will be a must 
2ooosrx
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I have heard a lot of talk about boring out the silencer. Does anybody know how this can be done? Also I know this makes it sound better but do you lose hp? please instruct me on how to do this.
Boring the silencer can only be done on the SX triple silencers...
sledrider_ny
New member
I've got a one year old 1 inch 9830h camoplast on it now. Put it on last season and it has around 1000 miles on it now. Gonna have to run this one through the season. I've got 144 1.25's in it round the center belt. I've never been a fan of studding the outside belts due to a couple rips on older sleds. I'd love an 1.25 track but when I bought this one the price was right.
Boring the silencer:
Get a "good" 2 inch hole saw. By good I mean an industrial type like Milwaukee, or other high quality brands. Don't even try it with a cheap one!
Next you will need a 12 inch extension for your drill. Make sure the extension will except the size of the pilot bit in the hole saw or you will have to grind it down.
Now stick it through the exhaust end of your silencer and let it drill through. Don't force it. Let the drill do the work. Just steady even pressure. If things go good, when you've cut all the way through and remove the holesaw the metal disc will still be attached to the bit. Otherwise you will need a extending magnet to fish out the piece.
Your done! Put it back together.
Boring the silencer:
Get a "good" 2 inch hole saw. By good I mean an industrial type like Milwaukee, or other high quality brands. Don't even try it with a cheap one!
Next you will need a 12 inch extension for your drill. Make sure the extension will except the size of the pilot bit in the hole saw or you will have to grind it down.
Now stick it through the exhaust end of your silencer and let it drill through. Don't force it. Let the drill do the work. Just steady even pressure. If things go good, when you've cut all the way through and remove the holesaw the metal disc will still be attached to the bit. Otherwise you will need a extending magnet to fish out the piece.
Your done! Put it back together.