How do you adjust The MPI transfer kit to keep the ski's down

M

MSRXRider

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Feb 26, 2007
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Spokane Wa.
So I put a MPI kit on my 98 SRX. The sled wants to wheelie all the time. On the trail its great. Going up hills its scary. Should the shocks bet set soft or hard? Also my handle bars have a 8" rise on them. Should they be lowerd a couple of inches? Can the steering post be moved forward? I'm not the best rider on the block,but being able to steer going up hill would be great.
 

The quick answer is go to MPI's web site and down load the instructions. The more you compress the suspension (tighten the straps) the less the ski lift. Shock setting is not as important as strap tightness for ski lift. Set the shocks for your weight and set the straps for desired ski lift/pressure under throttle.
 
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When I first put the kit on I set it at the neutral setting. To much ski lift. So I set it two up on the directions. (tighten the straps) Still to much ski lift. So now what?
 
I'll check asap, but i think I'm at BE & GJ for a +2, both shocks set on (3) middle setting. I'm 185 lb's. My sleds in storage for the season but I'll try to get by Monday to confirm settings and get back asap, although there should be no hurry for this year.
 
I pretty sure mine are set at -2 CF & GJ I also have KYB shocks. I'm 6 3 220lbs so I have them pretty soft. At least the front rear shock not sure on the very rear one. Storage not mine. I still have a few more rides.
 
Tight'en the front limiter straps or lowering the suspension to the bottom holes will give you more ski pressure and allow you to fine tune the rear straps. I have my suspension set in lower holes and my front straps adjusted up about an inch on the adjustment bolts, this allows me to control the rear straps with a quick adjust of the rear shock. Soft shock=more lift. Harder shock=less lift. Front shock set soft.
 
Thanks I'll give that a try. I did tighten the front straps up on the trail 1 inch or so threads showing. Not much change though.
 
if you want no ski lift put the stock transfer rods back on. with the transfer enchancement kit installed it only compresses the rear shock. the rear of the sled goes down much lower than tock when the tranfer enhancemnet kit is installed which results in ski lift. the best thing you would do to get rd of it is to either install transfer rods! just my opinion!!
 
while playing with the adjustments, in between testing, practice body english and throttle control. the spring snow affords a lot of traction. i doubt your sled packed the skis in the fluff to you disliking. turn left, lean left. or burp the throttle and shift your weight. make your sled go where you want it. takes some practice but well worth it.
 
I need to work on my shifting my weight. I have my bars set so high 8" I cant get any weight on the skis going up hills. Simmons skis suck in spring time snow. I didnt get to ride much in the fluff. Darn snow had no bottom this year. i have no history on this sled aka engine mods. It looks stock. Its peppy as hell you burb the throttle the skis are off the ground. I know I want to get rid of the simmons skis and the light weight trailing arms. I think with them the balance is off. I wish you were closer Scott I would let you try it.
 
Also should the rear scissor be straight up or tilted to the rear when its all adjusted. The directions say it should be tilted forward. Well its not.
 
MSRXRider said:
I pretty sure mine are set at -2 CF & GJ I also have KYB shocks. I'm 6 3 220lbs so I have them pretty soft. At least the front rear shock not sure on the very rear one. Storage not mine. I still have a few more rides.
Click to expand...

I put mine away because I going white water rafting down the Green river Desolation and Gray canyons (6-7 days) starting May 14th. This is what I do in the non-sled months along with Fly Fishing. It takes a lot to put together a trip of this length, no gas stations for last minute items on the river.
 
rear scissor should be vertical. i think the last one of these we did we relocated mounting holes on the rails back about 1 1/2". my sled is at the cabin so i will check at a later date.
 
Ok. Heres a picture of it.
Picture016.jpg
 
assuming all the math was correct from the original relocate, judging by the picture, the bottom mount can move back or the top can move forward, to make that point vertical. i also like to see a stop behind the rear scissor to keep it from collapsing rearward.
 
I measured twice if not three times before I started drilling. I would rather move the bottom back. What should I use for a stop? Can I mount it using the old control rod holes?
 
wasnt questioning your technique. i have done this way many times and still have to fine tune thats how i know all the little quirks and the fixes. i will get you through this. next year, put elk river on your to do list. as for the fix, move the lower holes back. let me check stock for a aluminum cross shaft and yes the stock control rod holes work.
 
Its ok. When I started measuring I was measuring from the bottom of the tunnel. Thankfully I figured that out before I grabbed the drill. Also I took my Simmons skis off because I want to sell them. I noticed that the carbides are worn on the front much more then the rear. What would cause that? I have light weight adjustable trailing arms. I'm not sure if they are set at the right length. I really want stock ones. So I need to find out what the lenght is on the stock ones.
 
straps

With the transfer straps set tighter it will affect the angle of the rear scissor, looser, angle forward. tighter ,angle rearward also affects steering pressure. Check rear shock nitrogen pressure and valving.
 
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