Allvipedup
New member
My bud has a 2000-2002 (not sure) Ohlins M-10 121". He's going to sell me dirt cheap, like a couple hundred bucks and it's in real good shape, just needs a new rail! It's the system with the remote handle bar controls for dampening and what not. Here's the scoop...
1. Will this flip the bill for real hard trail riding (smooth to hard chop, no back busters around here) and jumping? No ramps or anything like that. Just the usual large drifts, banks. Maybe 6-10 foot of vertical air at most.
2. I hear that the wiring on these needs to be re-routed so that it doesn't get chewed up in the suspension, is this true?
3. Should I even use the remote control or just use the skid plain, so to speak?
4. Anyone got an idea what a new rail would cost for one of these? Do you think I could find one used?
5. What will it do to top end, I keep hearing a couple MPH's at most, whiich I'm not concerned about.
Lastly. What track should I put under it based on aforementioned riding style.
I'll probably do it anyway, but I want to know what to expect. It has purple wheels on it right now, so those are going the way of the dodo first thing.
1. Will this flip the bill for real hard trail riding (smooth to hard chop, no back busters around here) and jumping? No ramps or anything like that. Just the usual large drifts, banks. Maybe 6-10 foot of vertical air at most.
2. I hear that the wiring on these needs to be re-routed so that it doesn't get chewed up in the suspension, is this true?
3. Should I even use the remote control or just use the skid plain, so to speak?
4. Anyone got an idea what a new rail would cost for one of these? Do you think I could find one used?
5. What will it do to top end, I keep hearing a couple MPH's at most, whiich I'm not concerned about.
Lastly. What track should I put under it based on aforementioned riding style.
I'll probably do it anyway, but I want to know what to expect. It has purple wheels on it right now, so those are going the way of the dodo first thing.
mine takes the big swail holes with ease. run a big wheel kit on the back.
friend i ride with as a new xp, he can not stay with me for long when it is bumpy, m10s ride that good and the ohlins never fade.
you can forgo the electric part. fast sells an end that makes it into a jack.
weight transfer is great if it is installed correctly. you may even want to cut the bottom of your block 10mm if it doesnt have enough.
forget the above, they suck, what is your friends phone number, i have to ask him something
friend i ride with as a new xp, he can not stay with me for long when it is bumpy, m10s ride that good and the ohlins never fade.
you can forgo the electric part. fast sells an end that makes it into a jack.
weight transfer is great if it is installed correctly. you may even want to cut the bottom of your block 10mm if it doesnt have enough.
forget the above, they suck, what is your friends phone number, i have to ask him something
xsivhp
Active member
if you send fast a picture of what you're looking at they'll be able to tell you what year it is and whether or not it has the ohlins in it.
btv - you ever run into interference problems with the big wheel kit and your rear cooler?
xs
btv - you ever run into interference problems with the big wheel kit and your rear cooler?
xs
first one i had was on the viper, it never interfered with it. i had guards on it. this one i have to redo the rail extensions, the extension is too long to install an extension. i am running the stock wheels in back with too much tension just so my track will clear the corners of the rail at the back. summer prodject(fixe the night before i go riding)
metric m10s have metric bolts, they were pre 01 after that polaris shared some manufacturing of them and the bolts were std. geometry is the same. the rail is lighter, the arms are the same, lower shock mounts are lighter and stronger, slide block mechanism is built better. metrics are just as good as the std, other than the slide blocks need to be changed more often.
side note, if you buy one, before putting it in, grind the rails down so they will accept yamaha slides. the metrics take a slide that only fit c7 skidoo skids and no one stocks the things. easier to do it once and then you can get slides anywhere. you need to take about a 1/16th off the total width of the lower rail
metric m10s have metric bolts, they were pre 01 after that polaris shared some manufacturing of them and the bolts were std. geometry is the same. the rail is lighter, the arms are the same, lower shock mounts are lighter and stronger, slide block mechanism is built better. metrics are just as good as the std, other than the slide blocks need to be changed more often.
side note, if you buy one, before putting it in, grind the rails down so they will accept yamaha slides. the metrics take a slide that only fit c7 skidoo skids and no one stocks the things. easier to do it once and then you can get slides anywhere. you need to take about a 1/16th off the total width of the lower rail
Allvipedup
New member
Thanks for the replies guys! Sounds like the big wheels on back is a smart move. So I should nix the elec. controls huh? I figure it would be something that would just break anyway.
It is definitely Ohlins, that I know for sure...which why I'm stoked.
BTV - His number is 888-DUN-SOLD...HEHE! I'll give you the A for effort though. Nice heads up on the slides.
How much of a biotch is this thing to install? BTV - you mentioned...IF INSTALLED CORRECTLY. How do I make sure I'm doing that. (is the template from fast good enough?) I'm sure there's a couple theory's on it, but I'm the type that likes to do it right the first time, after that my patience runs thin. Tweaking is fine, but to have to redo, really insn't acceptable to me.
It is definitely Ohlins, that I know for sure...which why I'm stoked.
BTV - His number is 888-DUN-SOLD...HEHE! I'll give you the A for effort though. Nice heads up on the slides.
How much of a biotch is this thing to install? BTV - you mentioned...IF INSTALLED CORRECTLY. How do I make sure I'm doing that. (is the template from fast good enough?) I'm sure there's a couple theory's on it, but I'm the type that likes to do it right the first time, after that my patience runs thin. Tweaking is fine, but to have to redo, really insn't acceptable to me.