balael
New member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2004
- Messages
- 9
I'm looking to buy some viper shocks from a show this weekend, i'm curious as to...
What year viper shocks do they need to be?
What mounting hardware is needed on the 98 that is extra?(I have read that nothing extra is needed, just double checking)
Other than that, will they bolt right up? or do I need to add some type of spacer?
Thanks.
PJ
I have looked through the forums, but I cannot seem to find the guide I had found on the original forums for putting these shocks on a 98.
What year viper shocks do they need to be?
What mounting hardware is needed on the 98 that is extra?(I have read that nothing extra is needed, just double checking)
Other than that, will they bolt right up? or do I need to add some type of spacer?
Thanks.
PJ
I have looked through the forums, but I cannot seem to find the guide I had found on the original forums for putting these shocks on a 98.
seca
New member
as far as i know, all you need are the longer limiter straps .
Maim
Super Moderator
You also have to change the transfer rod setting/spacers. it is posted in here some where.
cardguy
Member
balael
New member
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- Jan 12, 2004
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- 9
What if I have the adjustable traction rods in the rear? Would I need to still adjust them? Also, if I do need a different limiter strap, what strap do I need? or can I just drill another hole in the one I have?
Balael
Balael
Rambunctious
New member
i have exact same question for 2000 srx. just shook on a deal for 4 viper shocks for $100.
02 takeoffs from Yamaha viper replacement waranty deal. I know they are the stiff ones, but hope to be better than stock srx. and if not, i will revalve.
thanks
Ramb
02 takeoffs from Yamaha viper replacement waranty deal. I know they are the stiff ones, but hope to be better than stock srx. and if not, i will revalve.
thanks
Ramb
Viper Sniper
New member
Revalve them now...those are the No-Action shocks
2ooosrx
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- Gurnee, Illinois
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I am also interested in putting viper shocks throughout my 2000 srx. I am wondering if the front shocks will fit the srx or do I have to swap something from the two shocks? Also will the rear ones fit no problem? Thanks
yamaholic22
Active member
the rear ones will fit right in, you just have to change the limiter straps and the nylon spacers on the control rods (transfer rods). For the front shocks, the viper shocks are clevis top whereas the srx shocks have eyes on the top, so you need an adapter bracket to fit them on.
700srx
New member
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2003
- Messages
- 31
Viper shocks on srx
I did this one my 98 srx. Hauck has a set of adjustable brackets that bolt the viper shocks on the srx. I also widened my radius rods and steering arms. Remember stock eyelet to eyelet is 9 inches on stock srx and 17-171/2 on the viper shocks so you have to take off your skid plate or cut some out to let the radius rods go down farther. Got alot more travel out of it.
I did this one my 98 srx. Hauck has a set of adjustable brackets that bolt the viper shocks on the srx. I also widened my radius rods and steering arms. Remember stock eyelet to eyelet is 9 inches on stock srx and 17-171/2 on the viper shocks so you have to take off your skid plate or cut some out to let the radius rods go down farther. Got alot more travel out of it.
Rambunctious
New member
holly smokes, 17" vs 9". i did not realize the difference,
i just bought a set of viper takeoffs for $100.
i don't want the srx front end jacked way in the air, anyone have pics of this?
i will prolly take all prelaod (rideheight) adjustment to the bottom so the thing does not sit too high.
the rear is a no brainer. that is the ony real reason i bought these.
before / after pics would be cool
thanks
Ramb
i just bought a set of viper takeoffs for $100.
i don't want the srx front end jacked way in the air, anyone have pics of this?
i will prolly take all prelaod (rideheight) adjustment to the bottom so the thing does not sit too high.
the rear is a no brainer. that is the ony real reason i bought these.
before / after pics would be cool
thanks
Ramb
700srx
New member
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2003
- Messages
- 31
Shocks
I can try and get some pics for ya sunday. I paid 200 for all four shocks new factory take offs. It actually gives the sled a totally different look. There are three holes on the adjustable brackets and i have them in the middle. Later
I can try and get some pics for ya sunday. I paid 200 for all four shocks new factory take offs. It actually gives the sled a totally different look. There are three holes on the adjustable brackets and i have them in the middle. Later
vipertripplexxx
New member
shock valving
You need to know that those shocks need revalving! Iv'e been testing valve stack mods, and the viper shocks are so crappy it's hard to believe they actually put these shocks on the viper. The rears are really WAY OFF! These shocks are hard to figure out cause of the high flow piston design, small changes in valving make big differences in the ride. Also if someone tries to sell you springs, tell them to go scratch, the stock ones are fine for fairly agressive riding.
I use A progressive stack and modify the bypass slots only on the rears. As for the fronts DO NOT modifiy the bypass slots, this will cause the sled to push in the corners. Ask the person revalving the shocks if they modify the bypass slots on the front shocks, if they say yes, don't use them! This will cause the sled to "roll". Remember once the slots are cut there's no going back. you need to buy new pistons.
A weak progressive stack, in conjunction with lighter oil, is the way to go! With the right setup you will hardly feal the stutter bumps, and handling will be preserved. A high flow piston design is meant to have very little bypass when properly valved. Ask the boys at penske racing, they invented it for less vehicle roll in race cars! I would venture to say that properly valved viper shocks perform better than olins.
Heres A link to help, check out the digressive/velocity dependant piston designs. very similar to the pistons in viper shocks. Notice the stiffness at low speeds, very important for handling. You just need to lower the pressure at where the stack "pops" open. Yamaha knows how to make a sled handle, they just don't know how to make it ride well too!
http://www.penskeshocks.com/Adjustable Tech Manual.pdf
You need to know that those shocks need revalving! Iv'e been testing valve stack mods, and the viper shocks are so crappy it's hard to believe they actually put these shocks on the viper. The rears are really WAY OFF! These shocks are hard to figure out cause of the high flow piston design, small changes in valving make big differences in the ride. Also if someone tries to sell you springs, tell them to go scratch, the stock ones are fine for fairly agressive riding.
I use A progressive stack and modify the bypass slots only on the rears. As for the fronts DO NOT modifiy the bypass slots, this will cause the sled to push in the corners. Ask the person revalving the shocks if they modify the bypass slots on the front shocks, if they say yes, don't use them! This will cause the sled to "roll". Remember once the slots are cut there's no going back. you need to buy new pistons.
A weak progressive stack, in conjunction with lighter oil, is the way to go! With the right setup you will hardly feal the stutter bumps, and handling will be preserved. A high flow piston design is meant to have very little bypass when properly valved. Ask the boys at penske racing, they invented it for less vehicle roll in race cars! I would venture to say that properly valved viper shocks perform better than olins.
Heres A link to help, check out the digressive/velocity dependant piston designs. very similar to the pistons in viper shocks. Notice the stiffness at low speeds, very important for handling. You just need to lower the pressure at where the stack "pops" open. Yamaha knows how to make a sled handle, they just don't know how to make it ride well too!
http://www.penskeshocks.com/Adjustable Tech Manual.pdf